help---MAF
- Thread starter 306man
- Start date
Give this a try, if JRichker doesn't post something better...
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
(I have had guys complain that it didn't work, but I've never done it this way myself, so I'm not sure. It's definately worth a try...)
The spreadsheet I have put together is freaking out, but there is some info on code readers here...
http://www.freewebs.com/vristang/eecivdiagnostics.htm
Let Us Know,
jason
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
(I have had guys complain that it didn't work, but I've never done it this way myself, so I'm not sure. It's definately worth a try...)
The spreadsheet I have put together is freaking out, but there is some info on code readers here...
http://www.freewebs.com/vristang/eecivdiagnostics.htm
Let Us Know,
jason
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Ive got an 89 notch,basic 5liter.E-cam electric fan,long tubes,off road H,flowmaster dumps.Stock computer,no tune,stock maf untill yesterday.Car ran fine when all installed.The exhaust i highly doubt will make your car wanna do that.But just in case,start the car and at least try to get it to idle so the comp can relearn itself.If not.Frisby the mass meter and replace.Dont buy some huge 90mm either,it wont work.just a 70 mm will be fine.
Just out of curiosity did you unplug the neg. battery cable for a while to reset the comp? And with my old CAI (which I removed and went back to stock airbox) if you have one I know clocking (rotating) the MAF changed how it ran alot, I'm assuming because the sensor doesn't like taking readings from air coming off a curve like most the CAI kits are
Similar threads
