Help me FINISH my first engine!!!

T

tylerrocks

New Member

Oct 13, 2005

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Big Spring, TX

Dec 22, 2005

#1

• Dec 22, 2005

• #1

Ok I'm getting close to being ready to start putting my first engine togather. I am trying to put togather a list of "supporting" parts and am starting to feel like I'm a little over my head. First off, here is what I have starting from top to bottom:
Carb
Intake
Heads
Rockers
Pushrods
Roller Lifters (with dogbones and spider)
Cam (and bearings)
Pistons (with rings and pins)
Remachined Rods (and bearings)
Remachined Crank (and bearings)
Block with freeze plugs and machine work

Now, parts I know I need:
Air cleaner
Valve covers
Distributor (with plugs, wires, and a coil)
Fuel pump
Water pump
Oil pump and pickup
Oil pan
Timing chain and cover
Alternator
Belt and pullies
Harmonic balancer
Flywheel
Gaskets.

Anything eles? Do I need a front or rear sup oil pan? please let me know what you think

Tyler

 

Bad92GT

The 5 Minute Plan Man

Jun 10, 2004

492

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SC

Dec 22, 2005

#2

• Dec 22, 2005

• #2

got the correct springs for the heads to match that cam? other than that nothing i can think of

 

5

5.0ina66

Member

Jun 6, 2003

664

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16

Ohio

Dec 22, 2005

#3

• Dec 22, 2005

• #3

Headers/exhaust manifolds? Thats the only thing I can come up with. Front sump BTW

 

RFMustangGT

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Apr 4, 2005

294

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16

Knoxville,TN

Dec 22, 2005

#4

• Dec 22, 2005

• #4

buy you some good builders lube for everything. take your time and don't throw things across the shop when you get mad. make sure you got all the right bolts too.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

1,473

1

37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Dec 22, 2005

#5

• Dec 22, 2005

• #5

Get a bit of plastigage and clearance all those bearings.

 

HistoricMustang

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

2,359

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46

Confederate States of America

Dec 23, 2005

#6

• Dec 23, 2005

• #6

Front sump.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

HistoricMustang

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

2,359

0

46

Confederate States of America

Dec 23, 2005

#7

• Dec 23, 2005

• #7

Front sump.....................again!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

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Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

32

109

Austin TX

Dec 23, 2005

#8

• Dec 23, 2005

• #8

Definitely a front sump. Another consideration...do you already have all the brackets for the accessories? One thing FoMoCo never did a good job of (IMNSHO) was designing these. For example the alternator bracket...there were different ones used in 1967, depending on whether or not you had AC or PS or smog. My current motor only has an alternator on it...keep it simple and it is...SIMPLE!

 

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tylerrocks

New Member

Oct 13, 2005

514

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Big Spring, TX

Dec 23, 2005

#9

• Dec 23, 2005

• #9

Thanks for the help guys.
Yes chevy eater, The valve springs will be sufficient.
Ok, front sump it is.
RFMustang and 69Rcode, I will keep your suggestions in mind.
5.0, I forgot to mention headers in the parts I know I'll need (damn P heads).
Edbert, The only thing I will be running as an accessory is the alterneator, Do you think I'll be able to use the bracket from my 260 on a roller 302?

Thanks for all the help guys.
Tyler

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

3,548

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109

Austin TX

Dec 23, 2005

#10

• Dec 23, 2005

• #10

tylerrocks said:

Thanks for the help guys.
The only thing I will be running as an accessory is the alterneator, Do you think I'll be able to use the bracket from my 260 on a roller 302?

Click to expand...

I THINK so, there were different timing covers from the 260 to the 5.0, you need to make sure you get the right pump too since they changed. Best bet would be to do a grooved belt setup instead of the V-belt, now is the time to make the change. Then you can just use the 5.0 stuff and do a 1-wire alternator.

 

T

tylerrocks

New Member

Oct 13, 2005

514

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Big Spring, TX

Dec 23, 2005

#11

• Dec 23, 2005

• #11

When you say the timing covers are diffrent, are you talking about the dipstick provision or a PHYSICAL diffrence? The pump you speak of, would that be a water pump? I have heard something about needing a reverse rotation pump, is this true? I agree, and had planned on converting to serpentine.

Tyler

 

1

1966conv

New Member

Mar 5, 2004

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Dec 23, 2005

#12

• Dec 23, 2005

• #12

Are you talking a roller cam? Get the steel gear for the dizzy and the hardened oil pump shaft. Check and double check the imbalance of the crank, flywheel and balancer to make sure they're the same. 0/28/50 oz. Get good bolts, I'd recommend ARP. Your roller rockers may require taller valve covers.

Are you going with electric fuel pump? you may or may not need a fuel pump eccentric.

What year car are you building this for? What year is the block? Since it's a roller, I'm assuming it's later that 81

 

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tylerrocks

New Member

Oct 13, 2005

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Big Spring, TX

Dec 23, 2005

#13

• Dec 23, 2005

• #13

It is a roller block, I am using an F303 cam with roller lifters. Dose the block's year make any diffrence? I was under the impression that a roller 302 was just like any other roller 302. This motor is for a 64.5. I had planned on staying mechanical fuel pump. BTW Imbalance is 28oz

Tyler

 

5

57fairlane

New Member

Apr 2, 2005

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Oakwood, GA

Dec 23, 2005

#14

• Dec 23, 2005

• #14

tylerrocks said:

BTW Imbalance is 28oz

Click to expand...

for the motor? I guess you had it rebalanced at a machine shop then . . .

Also, what heads are on there? Stock E7s? if not, you will have to check pushrod length to make sure the ones you have will work.

 

C

C0V3R

Member

Feb 14, 2003

524

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Australia

Dec 23, 2005

#15

• Dec 23, 2005

• #15

Probably a stupid question - What is the significance of a front sump?

 

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tylerrocks

New Member

Oct 13, 2005

514

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Big Spring, TX

Dec 23, 2005

#16

• Dec 23, 2005

• #16

57fairlane said:

for the motor? I guess you had it rebalanced at a machine shop then . . .

Also, what heads are on there? Stock E7s? if not, you will have to check pushrod length to make sure the ones you have will work.

Click to expand...

Well I had a choice between 50 or 28 cranks, I have a flywheel in both weights and a balancer for niether, I bought my shortblock from a machine shop and was given the advise to go with 28 oz.

Heads are gt-40p, the pushrods were a part of the deal when I bought the heads so they should work since the seller had run them in his 302.

Tyler

 

ashford

Member

Dec 19, 2003

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fargo ND

Dec 23, 2005

#17

• Dec 23, 2005

• #17

accesory bolts in the head will change from 3/8 to 7/16. you can use your existing timing chain cover and pump if going v-belt(so much simpler). heres another kicker(if you have the one piece fuel pump eccentric) either use the short cam gear dowel pin with newer timing chain set with 2 piece eccentric, or longer dowel with older timing trio with one piece.

if you use newer timing trio with one piece eccentric you end up with this
View attachment 493909

 

Swede958

Founding Member

Dec 17, 2001

712

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Austin, TX

Dec 24, 2005

#18

• Dec 24, 2005

• #18

OOOOOH, spiffy wear pattern Ash

tyler: The 5.0 isn't the same as a 302 from the early cars. Very similar yes, but not the same. The main point is the different cam bore size for the roller cam and the bosses cast and then drilled for the spider in the lifter valley. Also has revised 351 style firing order and a 1 peice rear main seal.

Front sump means the place wear the oil collects for the pickup is located in the front of the pan. This is to clear the crossmember that goes right beneath the backhalf of the engine. On 5.0s it has sort of a mini sump in front and the main sump is on the backhalf of the motor because crossmember goes underneath the front half in later cars.

If your's alt bracket doesn't work... find a peice of steel or alluminum tubing large enough diameter for a bolt to the outer most cylinder head point to go through. I forget exactly where but you can order adjustment rods (threaded rod with to heim joints on the end) and use that for the tensioner and you got yourself an alt bracket.... just cut the tubing to size.

 

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tylerrocks

New Member

Oct 13, 2005

514

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Big Spring, TX

Dec 24, 2005

#19

• Dec 24, 2005

• #19

ashford said:

.... heres another kicker(if you have the one piece fuel pump eccentric) either use the short cam gear dowel pin with newer timing chain set with 2 piece eccentric, or longer dowel with older timing trio with one piece.

Click to expand...

This information is over my head, can you stupify? I dont know what the fuel pump eccentric is/dose, and I dont know what a cam gear dowl pin is.

Also, what is the significance of your picture? is it that circular pattern of fresh metal? I take it thats a bad thing?

BTW: I have an experienced engine builder helping me put it togather when I'm ready

Tyler

 

ashford

Member

Dec 19, 2003

485

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fargo ND

Dec 24, 2005

#20

• Dec 24, 2005

• #20

the fuel pump eccentric is that thing bolted on with theupper timing sprocket that runs the fuel pump. the dowel is the pin that goes thu that sprocket into the cam, most flat tappet cams come with 2 of them. and ford has 2 or is it 3 different thickness upper sprockets 69 i think was the changeover yearolder is the thinner one.