HELP ME, PINGING PROBLEM, NEXT STEP = SUICIDE !!!!

[Bad Saleen]

ok here my story

i bought a 94 gt last year with 55000 miles, sometime when a was the gas pedal to the floor i heard ting ting ting, so i supposed that it was a bad metal shield located on my cats and this happen completly stock, now i have the mods write in my sign except for the timing now i set it to 8 and i hear the same ting ting and this is the sound of ping. i look on all mustang forum to see what to change to fight this ping but never resolve my problem, here the part that i change:

IAT SENSOR
SPARK PLUG ( NGK V POWER, .52 GAP)
SPARK PLUG WIRE FORD RACING
THERMOSTAT 160*
PRESTONE 50/50 WITH A BOTTLE OF WET WATER IN
DROP THE TIMING TO 8*
STILL USE 91 OCTANE
FUEL FILTER
PCV VALVE


What is the next step, i read about the ect sensor that could cause some pinging problem, can i resolve my problem with this sensor because i dont want to change the all around on the entire car $$$$$$$ im very tired to put money for nothing, my pinging arrive at 4000 rpm in 3,4,5 gear

also i want to know i change my thermostat to a 160* today and outside it was 30*C with humidity and my car temp still be on the R of normal on the gauge and sometime drop on the O and sometime goes to the M on the gauge it is normal ????????? does my thermostat work correctly ???????




PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR INPUT I REALLY NEED HELP



THANX GUYS

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

wow you type like your from baghdad. i suggest better gas

 

[Joes95GT]

Are the heat ranges for the spark plugs in the correct range?

What kind of fuel pressure are you running?

Have you tried to retard the timing even more than 8* BTDC? Results?

New ACT and ECT sensors were my fix, but most don't experience those same results.

wow you type like your from baghdad. i suggest better gas

Awful critical aren't we? Get your nose out of the air.

Plenty of people could rip you too, but choose not to because we all need to be civil and polite around here. Grow up.

Oh BTW, sometimes 91 octane is the highest grade of gas offered in some regions. So much for knowing the right answer, dickhead.

Joe

 

[1105]

First off.. what octane are you running in your car? Have you cleaned your MAF? It could be dirty... Check your O2 sensors.

Try advancing your timing to like 12 or 14 degrees instead of 8 and see what happens... Ford sets it to 10 degrees so 8 might be too little.

 

[Quick5pnt0]

Awful critical aren't we? Get your nose out of the air.

 

[Bad Saleen]

i use 91 octane, i have cleaned my maf ten time, i have try 14-13-12-11-10-9-8 on the timing and all the time the same result, and what about my thermostat it is the normal ?????

 

[Quick5pnt0]

I would definately try changing the ACT and ECT sensors because there have been a number of people with your problem who changed those and had good results! I know it sucks just throwing parts at a car but like i said, this is a common problem.

 

[Bad Saleen]

what about my thermostat it si normal with a 160* that it still be on the R of normal on hot days

 

[jacob9]

my stang used to ping at part throttle once it hit 4500rpm. it would still ping after i would clean the maf sensor. i see in your sig that you have a C&L. when i was shopping for a new mass air meter i found out that the C&L keeps the stock maf sensor which is what was causing the pinging.i went with a pro-m mass air meter (it comes with its own maf sensor) and i haven't heard anymore pinging.

instead of buying all those parts listed, get a pro-m (you should have one anyway) and see if that resolves your issue. its a cheap and easy way to fix your problem.it worked for me!

 

[Joes95GT]

The cooler your car runs, the more resistant it is to detonation. A 160* thermostat is fine for your application.

Joe

 

[Bad Saleen]

but my car still stay on the middle of the gauge it is normal with this thermostat

 

[94TURBO5 O]

My answer to all pinging..."Take out the spout"

 

[ChromeYellow94]

Did you buy the C&L with the car? If it has alway's been like that and you bought it with the car than I would suggest that you borrow someones stock MAF and try that. C&L's aren't top quality in my opinion.....could be the prob.

 

[law]

I agree with Joe...I would also check or replace the ECT. That was the sensor that made the difference in my car. I would also ping above 4000rpms and replacing that sensor did it for me. Just start with the least expensive parts that everyone has mentioned, you will probably nailing your pinging problem with that.

Sergio

 

[95DRGT]

I'm also having a detonation issue. Completely stock car with 135K on it.
10.5 degrees of timing last time I checked

Only pings under load and when its hot. The normal operating range for this car is "L" on the NORMAL gauge. When car is cool before it comes up to temp it will not ping. I've run 87,89, and 93 octane and it does not help.

A few questions to those that responded to the initial issue:
1. What is the correct plug range for these cars? Would a colder plug help or hurt the equation

2. I know where the spout is why is removing it going to help?

3. Would a better cooling system (after market radiator, hi flow WP) help?

 

[94TURBO5 O]

1.) I ran Auto-lite 25 for stock and run 23 and 24's for a colder range.
2.) Taking out the spout locks the timing at where it set and no longer is contrlled by the computer from adding/minus'ng timing.
3.) yes, yes and yes. A cooler car is less likely to ping or detinate.

 

[WHITE94COBRA]

Sometimes on higher mileage cars carbon will build up on the pistons, thus causing pinging or detonation. first things first your car is not running hot so I will assume carbon buildup is probably not the problem. When under a heavy load when you start to hear it have someone watch you to see if you get a puff of thick black smoke, if you are gettin it your car may be running rich which will usually not hurt as much as being too lean, but would tell you if its one of the above mentioned censors, next colder plugs cant hurt. Raising your base timing past 10 will only make it worse ( in my personal experience) I had mine dyno tested and it turned out to be the pcv valve was clogged and the block was not ventilating properly, Heres how you can check for that, unscrew your oil cap a couple turns but not completely off, drive around the block under a moderate load, if it lessens or goes away than its the pcv or have your mechanic check it . If your noc censor is going out you car should be throwing a code and your check engine light will be on. And the stocks heads arent any help but not the problem. our cars are very tempermental to vaccume as well check for any leaks,(again not extremely common). And finally rebuild your motor with a 331 or 347 stroker and just be done with it lol, J/K. Keep us posted because im sure you will not be the last with the pinging demons.

 

[Bad Saleen]

i try to remove the spout connector today and the pinging is gone but when i reach 5000 rpm my car dont have any power

 

[94TURBO5 O]

Now try setting your timing to 15 and try it. If you get no pinging try and set it at 20 and I am sure you will like the feel there. I have seen guys set it at 24 and be satisfied there also. Glad you took the advice and tried it. I ran 20 degrees on the blower with an 8 psi pulley and when I switched to 12 psi I have it now set at 10.

 

[Prince95GT]

Sometimes on higher mileage cars carbon will build up on the pistons, thus causing pinging or detonation. first things first your car is not running hot so I will assume carbon buildup is probably not the problem. When under a heavy load when you start to hear it have someone watch you to see if you get a puff of thick black smoke, if you are gettin it your car may be running rich which will usually not hurt as much as being too lean, but would tell you if its one of the above mentioned censors, next colder plugs cant hurt. Raising your base timing past 10 will only make it worse ( in my personal experience) I had mine dyno tested and it turned out to be the pcv valve was clogged and the block was not ventilating properly, Heres how you can check for that, unscrew your oil cap a couple turns but not completely off, drive around the block under a moderate load, if it lessens or goes away than its the pcv or have your mechanic check it . If your noc censor is going out you car should be throwing a code and your check engine light will be on. And the stocks heads arent any help but not the problem. our cars are very tempermental to vaccume as well check for any leaks,(again not extremely common). And finally rebuild your motor with a 331 or 347 stroker and just be done with it lol, J/K. Keep us posted because im sure you will not be the last with the pinging demons.

I thought these cars didnt have knock sensors??