Help me with 351w build ideas!!

[str8stang036]

I am currently in the process of building my 351w. I want it to make atleast 500rwhp with boost or nitrous. But I dont know if I should stick with the 351w or do a 393 stroker.

If I stick with the 351w I would forge everything and go with low comp pistons for boost or nitrious.

If I do the 393 can I still do low comp pistons, and is it worth it?

Whats the better deal?

 

[giddyup306]

I'd personally stick with a cast crank. Just make sure you go through a lot of heat cycles before you give it hell. I'll probably get flamed b/c of that but that's JMO. Don't go with a scat crank tho if you go cast. They moved there plant across the whale pond and now they are much crappier than before. Go with Eagle. It does take a hell of a lot to brake a crank. Most of the roundy round guys I know do cast and they don't break as much as one would think. Bad cranks will usually net them 6 or 7 nites but if you think about it they have there cars at WOT for minutes not seconds. I'd personally go with n2o b/c of the cost and a stroker. The extra cubes are definately worth it.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Don't go with a scat crank tho if you go cast. They moved there plant across the whale pond and now they are much crappier than before.

Wasnt that "CAT" cranks, the cheapies you see on ebay?

I would just jump in head-first and build a 500hp N/A 408. If you're trying to save bucks, then going that route probably isnt feasible since the forged crank, rods, pistons and big induction will cost. I see it this way; boost the 351, or do a N/A stroker.

 

[giddyup306]

No I am talking about the Scat cranks. They are made in Tawian. A good friend of mine owns a machine shop and claims they aren't nearly as strong as the old ones. BTW he builds dozens of IMCA cars a year and races himself so he see how durable these things are. He showed me a "new and improved scat crank" and you could tell just by looking at it that it was economized.

 

[str8stang036]

I was looking at the 9000 series crank from scat which is like stock replacement for a 351w but stronger, and one from eagle but its also stock 351w. Is it worth paying a little more for a forged crank? Also, how much will the hp will the stock crank hold?

 

[SmockDoiley]

First off, a stroker kit for a 351 is no more than for a 302. They can be had, fully forged for $1400 and a grand for cast. As for going with a forged crank, its not needed since it would be stronger than the block and thats pointless. A stock cast crank and block can withstand 700+ horses. Also, you dont need a 351 or a lot of boost to get 500+ rwhp. I barely tried and with a 12 lb. 342 I made 516 at the wheels at only 4900 before have fuel issues. Imagine what it would have made at 6000k! And as for torque is was making 570 at 4350. But if you still want to go with a 351 remember that an N/A stroker will easily make 500 and be far cheaper than a power adder. Also, you can use a 392 crank, stock 351 rods and stock 302 pistons and have a 392 for pennies. If you can find a running 351, save the rods, get the crank for $300-400 and get some cast or hyper 302 pistons for practically free for building a stroker for almost free. Your 392 with AFR heads will make the power you need and since you dont need a power adder, you wont need the forged pistons. Most people will argue about that, but they can KMA since people here love bragging rights. Forged pistons are NOT needed unless you are running 10.5 or more comp or a power adder. Also remember that you can easily surpass the safe zone by combining a power adder with a stroker. I had a 700 horse combo with out of the box trickflow heads and an X-303 cam, D-1 procharger and 342 cubes. Its that easy so remember that. Forged cranks arent needs, forged pistons arent needed for NA setups and cubes arent needed if your boosting. A great plan if you ask me is the cheap 392 I spoke of but with forged pistons and then buy my D-1 intercooled setup with many parts worth $4200 for $2500. With AFR 205 heads you'd be in the 600+ rwhp range for about $3500 for the long block and $2500 for my blower.

 

[SmockDoiley]

Remember, there is a reason most stroker kits come with cast cranks because except for extreme cases its totally fine. Its funny that most people bitch that you need a forged crank and race block. Yet DSS, one of the best engine builder/sellers in the country use factory blocks and cranks up to 600 horses for their 302 based combos.

 

[SmockDoiley]

For a budget setup, use a new 392 cast crank, 351 stock block, stock 351 rods, stock 302 pistons which are forged, and Vic Jr heads since they flow just as well as AFRs but only cost $1300. This will net about 10 to 1 comp, be NA, make 500 to the wheels, and be totally streetable. A long block could be done for under $3000 if major machining isnt needed or the block is standard bore.

 

[SmockDoiley]

And actually, the money you save in doing the budget factory 392, you could use towards a new roller 351 sportsman block which is stronger and again really lets you use factory 302 pistons for like $50 or something off of Ebay.

 

[str8stang036]

I understand what your telling me, but I think I am going to stick with the 351 boosted. I am going to use the stock crank, but get some forged rods and pistons for the boost and the Vic Jr heads. What do you think that will make.

 

[5.0 HOtrain]

The only problem I see with boost on a stock crank with a centrefugal super charger is the added stress from the blower pulley. Stock cranks break at the snout from the stress, fact not fiction.
mike.