Well this is my first time on here and I need help I have 99 gt its basically stock it has bbk cold air intake, bbk pulleys, single chamber flowmasters, x-pipe, and i had my cats taken out and 2 1/2 pipe welded in also its an auto. Well Im going to Iraq in feb so im going to save some money. Im trying to decide what to do now i want to get a supercharger or a turbo dont know what kind. Ive thought about getting a stroker kit and getting done well im over there again. don know what to stroke it too. The other thing is i want to convert it to a 5 speed or 6 speed cant decide ive heard different things. I was thinking about getting patriot heads, typhoon intake manifold, and 75mm throttle body and plenum before I left. Also im going to try to get long tube headers with bassani off road x-pipe and probably go to 40 series. Basically im asking for help on how to build im a fast street car thats kind of like a sleeper. I almost forgot I cant decide what gears to go with. Ive heard 3 73 are better with a 5 speed and 4 10 for auto. My buddies said to keep the auto and rebuild it performance wise cause its better. What do yall think.
Help me with my 99 gt
- Thread starter mexdevildog05
- Start date
smokin00GT
New Member
Whoa!!! You have a lot of good ideas, but you have to prioritize! One thing at a time. I would do the gears now as they will make the most difference by the seat of the pants meter 
3:73 are my gear of choice, or motive makes a 3:90
3:73 are my gear of choice, or motive makes a 3:90
If you are going to go with a supercharger or a turbo then I would reccommend a 3.55 or a 3.73 at the lowest. I wouldn't go any lower meaning higher number. If you have no worries about money put a 6 speed in it. You will have more fun. I would also go with the new Trickflow intake cause it seems to be a better intake. As for the stroker I am not sure. If you go with a turbo it will make more power and torque.
i think u should just keep the auto and build that automatic. i heard that automatics are faster than stick shifts anyways because they shift faster if u get the proper things for the auto like a high performance torque converter and a shift kit
the only thing is with a auto it makes freeway races a lot harder but from a dead stop the auto should take the stick shift
the only thing is with a auto it makes freeway races a lot harder but from a dead stop the auto should take the stick shift
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
+1, if you have any questions about building an auto you can always pm me. It's cheaper or the same as buying a new 5-speed and stock 5-speed<built auto.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
depends on your aspirations. I'm definitely not a manual hater. If you want to go fast in a straight line with consistent runs that you can learn from then get a nice shift kit, do the valve body to Jmod specs and get a great stall TC. If you love corner carving on the weekend and taking it to the track once and a while and don't mind the clutch in traffic then a 5/6-speed is often best. It's just with a built manual it often comes with an annoying clutch for daily use, while a built auto is just as happy driving around town as on the track.
2000fordstanggt
Member
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
excluding overdrive, a built auto will shift faster than one is able to with a stick. I don't believe power shifting can even beat it, and that's bad for the tranny. I haven't been shown proof otherwise
2000fordstanggt
Member
excluding overdrive, a built auto will shift faster than one is able to with a stick. I don't believe power shifting can even beat it, and that's bad for the tranny. I haven't been shown proof otherwise
i take back the first part then, if anyone, you would know..
auto's definitly are more conistent, though.
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
well i think it'd be the stick owner's burden to prove being faster, not the other way around - especially when you can electronically document .29-.34 second shifts(SCCOA).
scupking
Active Member
What ever you do don't downshift in to first gear in an auto even if your only going 10 mph. I’ve done this twice and man does it hit like a rock (can’t be good for the tranny). However you still can have fun manually selecting some gears in the auto. If I'm at a light or stop singe and want to have some fun, I will stop put it in first get on it and sift at 6k. Sometimes when I’m going 40-50 I will through it in second, listen to her scream and step on it (always fun to scare the ricers). While getting on the highway I will leave over drive off till I hit around 80 and then turn the over drive gear on (sounds amazing at 4+k at 80mph, plus the torque is awesome). If I go to pass someone on the highway I will turn over drive off let the RPMS come up and then pass. One thing though if your going to be doing this kind of stuff with an auto you should get a tranny cooler.
scupking
Active Member
how does a tranny cooler work? i have never heard of it? also how much would it cost?
CobraRed_96_GT
Active Member
this is basically what i have:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM-70264&N=700+115&autoview=sku
except i bought mine form a corvette site for a lil less.
Reason for use: To reduce tranny temps, as high temps is the most common and destructive form of wear on the tranny. Our stock heat exchanger is basically inside/along side the radiator which gets much hotter than we want our tranny fluid, so an external cooler is recommended on even stock trannys.
It can work 2 diff was, but achieve the same goal.
In-line:
take off tranny fluid return line from stock heat exchanger (bottom line) and route the heat exchanger to the supercooler in front of the condenser, then from the supercooler back to the tranny fluid return line. This is "recomeded" for those who drive in very cold climates and want to make sure the fluid isn't over cooled (which the stock heat exchanger provides).
Exchanger delete (what i'm running):
take the stock heat exchanger out of the mix, route to supply line (upper line) down to the cooler, then from the cooler back around to the retrun line. This will vastley reduce tranny fluid and parts temps.
if you have the money, go turbo. you'll make more power with less boost and no belt issues. just remove the water pump underdrive pulley.
as far as the stroker kit, with forced induction, i personally wouldn't worry about it. you'll make plenty of power with the added boost alone. but if you want to go all out go with the 5.0L kits.
if you want a stick, go 6spd. to me, it's not worth the $ and effort to swap to a 5spd. the auto is rather strong for a stock unit. Jmod the valve body and add the cooler and you're set until you hit really high hp #'s. i'm making approx 430rwhp with no issues on a stock auto tranny with only the mods mentioned. you will need to upgrade the torque convertor tho to a triple disc.
go with MPH heads, forget the typhoon intake it's crap. keep the stock lower intake or go with a Bullit intake. if you stick with the stock lower intake, get a Dragon plenum with a 75mm t-body. with a centri blower, go 3.73's. with a Kenne Bell supercharger or turbo go with 3.55's or leave the stock 3.27's. i'm not a fan of 4.10's on an auto with forced induction. #1 you may run out of gear at the track and #2 unless you have a really really good suspension setup with really good tires, 1st gear will be a waste.
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