I tried a different coil and it does the same thing as mentioned before.
When the car cools off, there is injector pulse with the noid light and it starts right back up untill it reaches operating temp, then it starts skipping and dies. No injector pulse with the noid light after that untill it cools all the way down. Maybe the PIP sensor?
Thanks
I tried a different coil and it does the same thing as mentioned before.
When the car cools off, there is injector pulse with the noid light and it starts right back up untill it reaches operating temp, then it starts skipping and dies. No injector pulse with the noid light after that untill it cools all the way down. Maybe the PIP sensor?
Thanks
For future reference, there is no point in testing anything until the car starts acting up.
The PIP would be the logical choice but it's worth noting that a bad TFI module can inhibit the PIP's output signal before it reaches the EEC, which mimics a bad PIP.
Parts stores can repeatedly bench test the TFI module (which heats it up. Or drive to the store with the TFI sitting in the engine bay). Because the PIP is more difficult for a shadetree mechanic to test, it's often replaced if a TFI is thoroughly tested and passes.
All set. My friend at the garage i go to had a Ford distributor kicking around. That did the trick.
It runs great now. I also talked to MSD and they said from what I told them it was the PIP Sensor. I can send it to them and they will go through it, test it and repair it.
Thanks to everyone for all the help.
And a special thanks to jrichker for all his time, help, and patience