HELP!! MY horse is running hot !!
- Thread starter 94WizStang
- Start date
just4bob50
Active Member
94WizStang said:I have replaced everything that I can think of and still running hot. New water pump, thermostat, hoses, radiator cap (radiator is flowing fine),Fan is active and working on cue. I am baffled at this point!! HELP !!!
Are you certain that you have all the air pockets out of the system. I fought with that for a little while. I bought a duralast 180 t-stat from autozone and they come with a built in bypass valve, and after a couple of heat cycles all off the air pockets worked their way out. I was using a Mr. gasket 180 t-stat, but it had no by pass and when a pocket formed the temp would spike to 250 in less than a minute. Some guys drill a 1/8 inch hole in the body of the t-stat to bleed off air pockets. If thats not it and you have no leaks and your not using coolant then im not sure.
afast93stang
Founding Member
How hot are we talking about?
Do you have an aftermarket temp guage to see how hot it is really getting?
Have you checked the timing, sometimes if the timing is off and its running lean that can cause your temp to rise...
Do you have an aftermarket temp guage to see how hot it is really getting?
Have you checked the timing, sometimes if the timing is off and its running lean that can cause your temp to rise...
k. no aftermarket temp gauge and did get the bubbles out. I recently bypassed the heater core could that have anything to do with it?
You really cannot diagnose an issue with the stock temp gauge. That was not its intended purpose, even from the factory.
Grab a gauge of some sort - even a 10 dollar mech gauge from the parts store - you can leave it sitting on the console for testing, and remove it once you figure the issue out.
And post up when it actually runs hot (at speed, while idling, etc). You might have to keep burping. I have never been able to say that I knew I had burped the system completely - it's not something you can tell that you've completed.
Any info you can post will help. Good luck.
Grab a gauge of some sort - even a 10 dollar mech gauge from the parts store - you can leave it sitting on the console for testing, and remove it once you figure the issue out.
And post up when it actually runs hot (at speed, while idling, etc). You might have to keep burping. I have never been able to say that I knew I had burped the system completely - it's not something you can tell that you've completed.
Any info you can post will help. Good luck.
Never go by the stock gauge... I was fighting problems with my car when I got it out of storage after 6 years... Stock gauge would go allt he way up to 260-270... I pulled my hair out... but I knew the car was not running hot.. it was not spitting coolant or bubbling over... Turns out the stock gauge took a crap.. but it had to have been the wiring... Cause I even replaced the cluster to see if the gauge was bad... Bought an autometer and it works perfect....
I attempted to go back to the belt driven fan setup and the clutch was gone... It would overheat fast... the Advanced Auto Parts "Heavy Duty" fan clutch was looser then a 5 dollar hooker so I took it back and put a 3.8 Taurus fan on... All my overheating problems were solved. It never goes above 200 degrees with the a/c at full blast, sitting at idle for 30 minutes in the Florida summer where it's 95 degrees and 100% humidity. And that's with the Taurus fan on the LOW setting. I do also have a Griffen Alum. rad.
Nick
I attempted to go back to the belt driven fan setup and the clutch was gone... It would overheat fast... the Advanced Auto Parts "Heavy Duty" fan clutch was looser then a 5 dollar hooker so I took it back and put a 3.8 Taurus fan on... All my overheating problems were solved. It never goes above 200 degrees with the a/c at full blast, sitting at idle for 30 minutes in the Florida summer where it's 95 degrees and 100% humidity. And that's with the Taurus fan on the LOW setting. I do also have a Griffen Alum. rad.
Nick
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