Help Needed. Im Stumped

[RioRed95Cobra]

That sounds... bad. I just did a swap from a v6 to my '95 cobra setup.. and it ran like this for a bit.. i'd put money on your distributor or timing..

I went through the gauntlet too.. replaced IAC, ECT, IAT, cleaned tps, reset, did idle reset, went through 2 different lightning MAF's, new everything.. it was the goddamn plug wires. Yes my dizzy was bad too, but the whole issue stemmed from a bad wire that was arcing.

This sounds a lot more like fuel pressure, timing, or plugs being fouled to hell. What do the plugs look like? That sounds like .. You should def. check timing.. fuel pressure.. then if your plugs look ok.. go from there.

I'd bet something is WAYYYYY off by the sounds of it..

 

[Zax90]

well. I was looking around the engine because i was curious about something.... what is the possibility of a bad ground causing these issues? I'm asking because i did a bit of research and I for the life of me cannot find the strap from the back passenger side of the block to the frame/body.... so I'm slight worried about that because every time i have gotten out of the car before the current issue arised i would put my hand towards the bottom of the body/frame i would get a slight shock every time.... this is all out of curiosity and off the top of my head..... thanks for all of the replys so far!

 

[Dan_Soprano]

Def sounds electrical to me. If you are having a ground issue, it could cause alot of different things. Check the negative battery cable where it grounds to the block, as well as the other grounds on the negative battery cable.

 

[jozsefsz]

Edited: My bad, I was cussing you out for not posting fuel pressure, now I see it.

Check all the grounds is good advice. Check the timing is good advice. Your fuel pressure looks good, but it doesn't sound like it's running all that bad right now either. idk, stumped. Usually on our cars it's the TFI and / or the distributor PIP that cause sporadic issues, so you might try running the car with the SPOUT connector disconnected (grey two-pronged plug near the MAF) to take the distributor magnetic pickup (PIP) out of the equation and see if it runs any better.

 

[General karthief]

Didn't go back to recap your setup but on common fox's there is a ground on the drivers side from the back of the head to the firewall, from negative batt post to block by the oil pressure sender, small ground wire from negative batt post to a small self tapping screw on the inner fender between the batt and the solenoid and then another wire down from there to a cylindrical connector then into the wire harness, another under the egr valve area that comes from a wiring harness to a bolt on the lower intake.
The little shock you get when you touch the car is likely static electricity, if you exit the car with your hand on a metal part on the car that will not happen. If your car has an electrically charged body, enough to shock you, then you gots problems, you would be able to take a test light hooked to the negative batt terminal and it would light up when you touched the fender bolt or other bare metal.

 

[Zax90]

okay thx guys i will check everything yall told me about when i get home. the odd thing is i only seen like 1... MAYBE 2 ground straps so far and one went from the battery then to the front brace by the radiator by the hood stopper. i didnt see one from the head to the firewall. so i got alot of searching to do on the motor for those ground straps

 

[General karthief]

There is a ground wire on the radiator support but it's for the head lights and comes from a wire harness not the batt post, the ground from batt post to the inner fender apron is a computer ground, actually all the grounds I talked about are for some computer fuctions. There is another one thats by the computer in the kick panel passenger side.
I have to remember we are talking about a 95-6 model so there may be a difference from the fox cars I will do some research when I get home.

 

[Zax90]

ok. thanks again man. greatly appreciated

 

[Noobz347]

And here's something I just found out as well

Don't do this again. This is how EECs get fried.

 

[Zax90]

Don't do this again. This is how EECs get fried.

Okay understand

 

[General karthief]

I found this while looking around, maybe good to have around, jrichker post this link on another old thread.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result....ategory=8&Keyword=&Module=&selected_media=for

Veryuseful.com is another place for wiring and vacuum diagram

 

[Zax90]

thanks again man.

 

[Zax90]

also. i just noticed that this car has what looks to be a 94\95 mustang distributor.... i only noticed because i was told by a friend to check the module on the side of the dizzy and i became kinda baffled because it has the cables going straight into the dizzy instead of to a module. lol this is gonna be a challenge

 

[General karthief]

The module is isolated I think on the passenger side inner panel

 

[Zax90]

ok thanks man.

 

[dcm0123]

If it ran good for a while "on the replaced parts", possibility is something went bad which you replaced. Do not rule something out because you replaced it.

Try another set of plugs, if it runs good then goes bad again, possibly it never ran right to start with so you need to think about is there something which should have been changed when you did the swap but did not. Double check what should have been replaced was.

Based upon your plugs it has something to do with the fuel to air mixture. I had a similar problem once which was shorted wires to the oxygen sensor but my plugs were worse.

My 87 had a similar problem with limited RPM but not sure about plug fouling, turned out to be clogged catalytic converters. Do you know if the heater circuit for the sensors is working? Check the continuity of the heater on the sensor itself.

Any chance you ended up with a mixture containing diesel fuel in the tank?

Some cars you can unplug the air flow sensor and see how it runs in bypass mode. Not sure about Fords.

I have had problems with the engine controls temperature sensor (not the gauge sensor) and the plug which mates to it. May be indicating the engine is cold so it needs to add more fuel. Try to bend the sockets in the connector so it makes better contact with the sensor.

If you can not find anything, I would start by replacing plugs, wiresm cap, rotor and coil.

If someone on the forum has a ood understanding of the EEC system, they can probably tell you what the systme can self diagnose and what it can not. If you are not getting error codes this would give you a list to start with.

Good luck!

 

[Zax90]

well guys i think i have "MAYBE" found the culprit... i just pulled the dizzy and i heard a clunk noise.... i looked at the dizzy and the gears pin that held it in snapped.... would this possibly be my issue? the thing that i'm confused about is that it would run. not well but it would run. but yesterday i tried to crank it and adjust the timing to see if that would help but no spark. would this cause erratic numbers from the timing light? btw the guy whom i bought the car from sent me to autozone to trade it in so thats $100 that i can save towards something else.

 

[General karthief]

Sure, like walk'n around with a shoe un laced, stays on but kinka flops around.

 

[dcm0123]

well guys i think i have "MAYBE" found the culprit... i just pulled the dizzy and i heard a clunk noise.... i looked at the dizzy and the gears pin that held it in snapped.... would this possibly be my issue? the thing that i'm confused about is that it would run. not well but it would run. but yesterday i tried to crank it and adjust the timing to see if that would help but no spark. would this cause erratic numbers from the timing light? btw the guy whom i bought the car from sent me to autozone to trade it in so thats $100 that i can save towards something else.

Suggest you check your oil pump to make sure it has not jammed. Sometimes a piece of a valve stem seal or other debris can get past the pick up screen and jam the pump.
If you can spin the pump with a shaft it should be OK.

Took a lot of force to break that pin.

 

[jozsefsz]

Suggest you check your oil pump to make sure it has not jammed. Sometimes a piece of a valve stem seal or other debris can get past the pick up screen and jam the pump.
If you can spin the pump with a shaft it should be OK.

Took a lot of force to break that pin.

I'd only add that if that in fact happened, you'll want to change the pump and the shaft as well.