• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

!!!!!!!HELP!!!!!! Pilot Bearing STUCK in engine, Help me get it out!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Starscream88
  • Start date Start date Jan 16, 2004
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last

Starscream88

New Member
Mar 8, 2003
1,277
1
0
Park Ridge NJ
Jan 16, 2004
#1
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #1
Ok,

Im doing my clutch obviously,

Everything was fine, Up untill the pilot bearing removal

The thing just will NOT come out,
I have a slide hammer tool with a little pick at the end,
Ive hit it and smacked it so much the inner bearing has broken to bits and come out

Not Im just left with the outer bit of the bearing still stuck in
Im really worried now,

Anyone got any tips how to get this out??
Any pics or discriptions of other tools I could try,
what about heating it? or it it too close to the rear main seal/other rubber gaskets to try this?

Please help!
 

cardudeusa

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
1,744
5
48
Home of the Florida Gators!
Jan 16, 2004
#2
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #2
I had the same problem. I had to sit there with a chizel and hammer for about 2 hours and just beat the crap out of it. Just try not to hit the crank, even though I did a few times. Good luck.
 

Starscream88

New Member
Mar 8, 2003
1,277
1
0
Park Ridge NJ
Jan 16, 2004
#3
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #3
Well I do have air tools at my disposal,

I was thinking of taking the air chisel to it,

But I was scared to

I wonder If I rent a tool from Autozone that might get it out,

although its in a sorry state as of now,

I have a real crap removal tool, It looks like a punch but the end has a little grove cut out with a little edge to "hook" in there,
Ive hooked and pulled too much and killed the inside,
 

old_blue

15 Year Member
Nov 3, 2003
1,783
282
124
Jan 16, 2004
#4
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #4
that tool sucks, I rented it and borke it and lost my deposit, I agree with cardudeusa. I would buy a new craftsman chisel ( one small enough to just work one side) and cut a "V" section out of tat outer ring. I did it and it took 30 minutes of just working the metal. I also caught the crank a few times but there is nothing wrong with that. Just be careful and take your time. it works. Some use the grease, socket and hammer method but that made a big mess for me.
 

Starscream88

New Member
Mar 8, 2003
1,277
1
0
Park Ridge NJ
Jan 16, 2004
#5
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #5
Mess dosent bother me lol
I just want the little crap bag out of there!
 

Starscream88

New Member
Mar 8, 2003
1,277
1
0
Park Ridge NJ
Jan 16, 2004
#6
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #6
So is breaking it out the only option I have now ??
 
D

DJ

New Member
Sep 25, 2000
6
0
0
BRADENTON, FL
Jan 16, 2004
#7
  • Jan 16, 2004
  • #7
I had to take a chisel to mine too. Just get a nice sharp one. Just take your time with it, It'll split apart and fall right out.
 

Blk91stang

Member
Jan 3, 2003
607
0
16
North Brunswick, NJ
Jan 17, 2004
#8
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #8
I used the slide hammer on mine.. Yes i did break it all apart and had roller bearings flying every which way.. Finally came out tho.. Just keep trying !!
 

ashford

Member
Dec 19, 2003
485
0
16
fargo ND
Jan 17, 2004
#9
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #9
if its brass you can find a big tap,tap it out put a long bolt in it on a tube, wash and nut and tighten the nut, if its a roller you can make a slide hamer out of ready rod
 
C

Camman

Founding Member
Jan 5, 2000
1,055
0
37
Las Vegas, NV
Jan 17, 2004
#10
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #10
I had the same problem... I used an air chssel which I can not recommend, but the f***er was out of there in like 10 minutes... lol I hit the crank a few times, but no problems.
 
M

Mean88

Founding Member
May 13, 2002
656
0
16
Jan 17, 2004
#11
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #11
You dont need to do any of those things! You could damage the crank! Take a bolt, or some sort of steel shaft that barely fits into the hole of the pilot bearing. When you find something that fits, take a grease gun, and fill the pilot bearing hole full. Take the shaft, bolt, whatever, stick it in the hole, and hit it with a hammer. Works like a F-N' charm. The bolt pushes the grease, which hydraulically pushes the pilot bearing out.
Peace
Ted
 
9

94greenmile

New Member
Nov 2, 2003
19
0
0
Ms.
Jan 17, 2004
#12
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #12
using a air chisel is not recommended because you can damage the crank. Go to O'reily's or advanced and rent a gear pulley with nice clawed ends. Usually autozone has tools that are used extensively and worn on the gear teeth. Do not worry about tearing the bearing up the goal is to get it out without damaging the crank.
 

Starscream88

New Member
Mar 8, 2003
1,277
1
0
Park Ridge NJ
Jan 17, 2004
#13
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #13
Cool,
I shall give one or two of them a try today
 

ashford

Member
Dec 19, 2003
485
0
16
fargo ND
Jan 17, 2004
#14
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #14
never heard of the grease trick souns lit it would slick
 

cardudeusa

Founding Member
Oct 22, 2002
1,744
5
48
Home of the Florida Gators!
Jan 17, 2004
#15
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #15
ashford said:
never heard of the grease trick souns lit it would slick
Click to expand...

Ive heard of it, but I was told it wont work on that type of pilot bearing.
 

stangbear427

Active Member
Nov 11, 2002
2,401
1
49
New England
Jan 17, 2004
#16
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #16
It works, but you have to be carefull. If it isnt done just right, you pound the crap out of your crank and squirt grease everywhere. The only way we know to get them out is piece by piece, with a brass mallet and chisel. PIA, but it has to be done.
 

old_blue

15 Year Member
Nov 3, 2003
1,783
282
124
Jan 17, 2004
#17
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #17
I am telling you, you wont damage the crank at all if you take you time and take little pieces out. i tried the hydraulic method and it did nothing cept squirt grease everywhere. it was easier for me to do the chisel method. I bought a brand new chisel for 2 bucks and used a reg hammer and just started to make a "V" shape taking little pieces out. within 30 minutes it was out. just dont chisel into the crank. and you can damage the crank from the grease method by going to deep and pounding on the crank!
 
W

winder

Founding Member
Apr 8, 2002
280
0
0
Orlando, FL
Jan 17, 2004
#18
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #18
I tried the grease thing- NO WAY DID IT WORK. Who ever started saying it worked must have been drunk. The pilot bushing is pressed in GOOD. I have chizled mine out and put a new one in and after putting it the trans back in the transmission would not go in gear (grinded when I put it in gear). Come to find out the new pilot bearing was not spining- causing the input shaft to spin with the motor (like the clutch not releasing). I caused a ridge on the crank using a chizel pushing one side of the bearing. Honestly- go to a transmission shop. Ask to borrow one for one hour and give him lunch money. I did it and the guy had a Mac tool pilot removal tool. SWEET.

P.S. Get a good bearing also. MADE IN USA. NOT the China ones- like dorman uses.
 

retro50

New Member
Jul 15, 2003
191
0
0
Plymouth,MA
Jan 17, 2004
#19
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #19
The grease trick works really well. I know I use it all the time. I fill the hole with grease and then I put a craftsman 3/8 drive socket backwards that fits the hole snug and I put a 6"-3/8" extension in the socket to plug up the socket hole and I pound on the socket extension with a ball peen hammer.It works everytime. You have to fill the hole with grease 2-3 times using this method but it really works. And it makes a big mess. But it does not ruin the end of the crank.
 

Starscream88

New Member
Mar 8, 2003
1,277
1
0
Park Ridge NJ
Jan 17, 2004
#20
  • Jan 17, 2004
  • #20
Well I got it out with the chisel idea,

I did hit the crank a few times but nothing major,
The new one was a PITA to get in too, really had to hit it good to get it in,

Well everythings back together now,
Tomorrow I shall re-fit the exhaust, and alls done,

Pedal feel much better, Less effort that the last one,
 
  • 1
  • 2
Next
1 of 2 Next Last
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Drivetrain 8.8 Pinion and 302 rear main seal leaks after replacing. 93 5.0 with t-5
  • Steigy4827
  • Jun 23, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
10
Views
716
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Apr 1, 2026
Steigy4827
S
3
Eight inches is enough for me...
  • 351MooseStang
  • Nov 27, 2025
  • 1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech
Replies
5
Views
622
1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech Mar 2, 2026
Bullitt347
A
Electrical Help Identify wires/connections engine bay passenger side firewall (unused)
  • afjLX
  • Dec 4, 2024
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
8
Views
1K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Dec 10, 2024
afjLX
A
G
Front Sway bar HELP
  • Grabberblueguy77
  • May 28, 2025
  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
4
Views
403
2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk- May 28, 2025
gkomo
T
Convertible A-pillar weatherstrip issues
  • thiefofcheese
  • Oct 24, 2025
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
2
Views
373
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Nov 20, 2025
AeroCoupe
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?