HELP! Popping through intake? Backfiring when shifting?!

ozanracing

New Member
Nov 28, 2006
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Hey, I am just getting the motor all setup, but I heard some really crazy popping, (sounds like someone is hitting the intake with a hammer/ almost sounds like mechanical conntact...) At idle. Then when I shift fast, inbetween, when i let off the gas you hear a pop crackle pop type noise...Timing is 16* / fp 40psi / Vacuume is only at 8"....(see cam specs in sig) Is this what backfiring sounds like? Should I be worried about that noise at idle? Verry intermittant.. Only happens when the Idle gets REAL low, near where it's going to stall...Just scary because it sounds like something is hitting something else... :(
What's going on??
Other than that engine runs terriffic! Very strong puller....
 
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No, there's only one vacuume line connected, and that's to the fuel pressure regulator.

I'll try replacing that hose though...But it's only pulling 8" of vacuume at idle.
Odd thing is I pulled that line off to set the fuel pressure, and it didn't even notice that there was a vacuume leak!?! The motor didn't idle up or down or anything!
 
I pulled the upper intake off and the valve covers...Everything looked fine...
Oil was clean as new....I don't think it's anything hitting something else...the sound is very random, and only occaicionaly (SP??!) at a low idle. I do have a small leak at the rear of the lower intake/block area, where it's sealed with those little rubber "rails".


Also I think there is a header leak....I can feel it with my hand if I place it near the headers, but that has it's own distinct sound...

The last thing I want to say is that the rockers that are on the base circle of the cam can be "rocked" to the sides...Like the roller tip and the valve stem tip...NOT up and down (pushing in on the lifter plunger or pushing down on the valve)
 
Backfiring out the intake is either a valve stuck open or a lean mixture or spark plug wire(s) connected to the wrong cylinder(s). Check compression on all cylinders and then look for vacuum hoses loose, cracked, misconnected. Check the line for the vapor recirculation system – it is easy to knock loose and not see it when you connect the air pump plumbing. If the vacuum line for the EGR valve and the air pump are cross connected, some very strange things can happen. Check the mass air flow electrical connection and see that it is tight, the same goes for the fuel injection wiring harness connectors up on top of the manifold near the firewall.

Sticking valves: If a intake valve is bent, has a bad spring or is misadjusted, the engine will sometimes backfire through the intake. Use a vacuum gauge connected to any convenient spot on the intake manifold. Run the engine at 1000 RPM & look for 18-21 inches of vacuum with a steady needle. A problem intake valve will make the vacuum gauge needle sweep 5-10 inches every time that valve opens or closes.

Lean fuel mixture breaks out into several sub categories:
A.). Vacuum leaks
B.) Air entering the intake without passing through the MAF.
C.) Failure of the MAF, BAP/MAP (Baro or Manifold Air Pressure, same sensor, different name), ACT (air charge temp), or ECT (engine coolant temp). These should set a code in the computer.
D.) Leaking exhaust gases from EGR valve at WOT.
E.) Poor fuel delivery due to bad fuel pump, clogged filter or bad fuel pump wiring. Look for low pressure or fluctuating pressure. Standard injector pressure is 39 PSI at idle, with the vacuum line disconnected from the regulator and capped.
F.) Clogged fuel injectors.- see the cylinder balance test below
H.) Fuel injector wiring problems causing injector not to deliver rated flow.
I.) Computer problems: (computer problems are not common like sensor problems)
J.). ROM has bad data in fuel or timing table. This should also set a code in the computer.
K.) Failure of one or more of the computer's driver transistors for the fuel injectors. No code set on this one. Use a noid test light to test the injector wiring & injector drivers,
L.) MAF calibration off or mismatched to injectors.
M.) ACT or ECT bad. Sometimes the sensors will be off calibration, but not bad enough to set a code. If they falsely read too high a temp, the engine will back off fuel delivery.

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 9 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 2 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure