help with an optima!

rio95 · Feb 14, 2004

i know that there have been alot of thee threads and i did a search for it, but it didn't help any.

plane and simple:

which optima battery do i get? 75/35???

it seems like everyone got a diff. model.

also, i need to replace the cables and terminals too. what would be the idea for this? i am leaning towards a steeda relocation kit, but i don't know if the bat. will fit.

rio95 · Feb 14, 2004

someone must have some info???

well, after going to autozone today, i may go with the larger red top??????????????????

SN95StangMan · Feb 14, 2004

I have a 75/35 red top. The positive cable is just the right size. A hair more and it wouldnt reach.

95.0Stang · Feb 15, 2004

I am thinking about getting a Yellow Top...so this fit ok?

rio95 · Feb 15, 2004

why a yellow??

94GTLaserRC · Feb 15, 2004

Go for the cheaper one. I got the one that was 10 dollars more, and the only benenfit I can see is the side posts for GM cars. That one is bigger, and I had to replace the postive cable that reaches from the Fuse box to the Terminal
I used these $6 terminals with the colors and self-tightening levers.
RC

BTW...did anyone that got an Optima have a problem with their alternator?
RC

rio95 · Feb 15, 2004

doesn't the bigger one have a little more power? i'm not saying the 73/35 isn't ebough, but why not get the more powerful one. the 75/35 is $10 cheaper and it is smaller/lighter, but which one is going to be best?

p.s. are you have alternator problems now???

rio95 · Feb 15, 2004

RC,

you got those terminals from autozone didn't you, b/c i think i saw those there? did you buy all new cable? i'm thinking about either buying bare cable and terminals or just buying the steeda relocation kit, which comes with cables and everything.

95.0Stang · Feb 15, 2004

I have a yellow car

94GTLaserRC · Feb 15, 2004

95.0Stang said:
I have a yellow car

AND..............?
What's your point?

Rio:
See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=424881

RC

95.0Stang · Feb 15, 2004

this is why I want a yellow top...as I was asked above!!!

94GTLaserRC · Feb 15, 2004

95.0Stang said:
this is why I want a yellow top...as I was asked above!!!

When you reply to someone that is a few posts above, you should "QUOTE" their statement. Then it will be easier to follow.
RC

horsesnake95 · Feb 15, 2004

The yellow top optima requires a new battery tray. It's too big for the OEM tray and won't allow the hood to close. I just made a new battery tray out of aluminum diamond plate and that solved my problem.

rio95 · Feb 16, 2004

does both the 75/35 (red) and the larger red top fit in the stock try good??? i'm sure the 75/35 will, b/c it is small.

also, what would you guys recomend for replacing the cables and terminals??? should i just buy some stock replacements from autozone or by it by the foot???

94GTLaserRC · Feb 16, 2004

rio95 said:
does both the 75/35 (red) and the larger red top fit in the stock try good??? i'm sure the 75/35 will, b/c it is small.

also, what would you guys recomend for replacing the cables and terminals??? should i just buy some stock replacements from autozone or by it by the foot???

Just get the smaller one, and dont worry about all that other stuff.

RC

rio95 · Feb 17, 2004

fine, i'll get the smaller one, but i do have to replace the cables though, because they are nasty looking and fusy. if the terminals aren't sitting just right, my car won't start, so i deff. want to replace them.

GTPhreak · Feb 17, 2004

I have the 75/35 redtop in my car. fits good...steal the grey plastic hold downs from a different optima battery though and it will fit the tray perfect and not move

Stucker21trt · Feb 17, 2004

As for the cables

The cheapest way that I've found to do battery cables is to make your own out of welders wire. Go to any good industrial (i.e. not Home Depot) supply place and they will be able to hook you up. They make them in sizes ranging from small to massive over kill, and the wire itself is better quality than cables at the auto parts store. Double insulated, better copper, very flexible, that kind of thing. This is not the AUG stuff that electricians use; that stuff is very stiff and difficult to work with.

To make the cable, all you need is a blade to strip the sheathing, and your choice of either soldering it or smashing the end with a hammer and punch of some kind. If you do the punch thing, make sure that you make a cross for the crimp, not just a flat pressing together, so that there is no way the copper can work it's way out and slip loose. If you like playing with fire, use some electrical solder, not the acid core stuff; and try not to melt the insulation too much.

In either case, you also want to put some liquid electrical tape goop on both ends of your new battery cable. I like to put on a coat, let it set for 10-20 minutes, and then put on a second coat. For the battery end, you can use some regular old terminal clamps, as shown in 94GTLaserRC's picture. I did this for my positive and negative cable, and the difference in the brightness of the lights was really suprising. But then, my cables were 20 years old. The alternator (+) lead is a good one to do also, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

-Steve

94GTLaserRC · Feb 17, 2004

Stucker21trt said:
The cheapest way that I've found to do battery cables is to make your own out of welders wire. Go to any good ..................
-Steve

TOO MUCH WORK FOR ME

RIO, you should be ok with wire size on the smaller one. I got the H-bracket with the J bolts to hold the battery down. Those stock hold-downs souck@%#*!

RC

rio95 · Feb 18, 2004

i might just buy the plain ol' off brand stock replacement wires from autozone. they are like $15 and i won't have to worry about making it all. i probably don't need anything better than this.

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