Help with Headers???

Mustangman5.0 · Dec 18, 2005

Hey guys, i havent been on this site in so long and let me just say its great to be back. Well im back and im ready to give the stang some nice upgrades for the winter season. I want to start with some shorty headers. I dont want to spend too much, i hear a reasonable pair should cost around 300 or so dollars. Which headers would you use to match up with my Catted X-pipe and my Dynomax Bullet Mufflers? Any help would be great, also how long of an install time am i lookin at for these things.?

merc123 · Dec 18, 2005

From what I've read, don't waste your money on shortys, go with long tubes. The HP/TQ gain isn't worth the price.

mity2 · Dec 19, 2005

Hes from CA. LT is out of question sadly.

I would go with JBA shorties. from what i hear, they make most power of all shorties...
As far as install goes, Don't know what shop would charge you. I did mine myself, and i took sweet ol' time doing it. Took me 4 days, but thats mostly because i spent more time getting drunk then turning wrenches. If your gonna install it yourself, and if its your first time, I would keep weekend open for it.

Now that I did it few times, I think I can get it done in about 6hours(disassemble and install)

invertmast · Dec 19, 2005

I've installed a set of FRPP & JBA shorties and both of em took about 6 1/2 to 8 hours.. the JBA's taking a wee bit longer than the FRPP's.. either are great headers though.

Mustangman5.0 · Dec 19, 2005

Thanks guys, i think im gonna go with the Ford Racing Shortys. The JBA's are awfully expensive and seem to be out of my price range. I have installed shorty's on my 5.0 before, but as you know the 4.6 is a completely different story. Ill be sure to keep a weekend open.

mity2 · Dec 19, 2005

FRPP or BBK they are about same as far as performance goes.

Personaly, I would spend that money for shorty somewhere else, like gears, or TB/Elbow combo, or Cobra brake.

But if your gonna do it your self, here is how to that I followed. its prolly one of best how to on header install. Its for LT, but procedure is same on shorty
http://www.fnsweet.com/garage/lt_install/index.shtml

Good luck!

invertmast · Dec 20, 2005

Wow,
thats a heck of a HOw-to on doing LT header installs.. I've done 4 of them so far (2 in the driveway, 2 using a lift), and never dropped the K member on any of them. And the longest one took me 8 hours b/'c BBK's flange was too big to get into the engine compartment (from below) so i had to grind some of it away..

But none the less... great writeup on it

FalconGuy016 · Dec 20, 2005

Wow that is a very great writeup.

mity2 · Dec 20, 2005

invertmast said:
Wow,
thats a heck of a HOw-to on doing LT header installs.. I've done 4 of them so far (2 in the driveway, 2 using a lift), and never dropped the K member on any of them. And the longest one took me 8 hours b/'c BBK's flange was too big to get into the engine compartment (from below) so i had to grind some of it away..

But none the less... great writeup on it

Now, I've done my LT x3(damn clutch ), and I just don't now how you can do LT without dropping K

Something like FRPP shorty, i can see how, but with somethig like BBK LT, some bolts are sooo hard to get to with K-menber not there, i just don't see how do you tighten them bolts with K-menber in placeRoom you have between cylinder head and framerail are soo stinking tight for my bigass hand(you know what they say about man with big hand ), that i had to employ my GF(with much smaller hand) to get the nut started, after dropping engine down as far as it go down(which was nurvewrecking...)
View attachment 494203

So i always tell people that any time you'll save by not dropping K is going to be consumed by fighting with those bolts, and not to mention infamous 3rd bolts on starter

invertmast · Dec 20, 2005

ohh yea.. I agree with you 100%, thats why after the 4th set i did, i told everyone, that if they wanted me to install them, they had better get a tubular K member to slap on at the same time, b/c there are sooo many bolts that are such a PITA to get too, its easier to drop the K member..

hotmustang331 · Dec 20, 2005

mity2 said:
Now, I've done my LT x3(damn clutch ), and I just don't now how you can do LT without dropping K

Something like FRPP shorty, i can see how, but with somethig like BBK LT, some bolts are sooo hard to get to with K-menber not there, i just don't see how do you tighten them bolts with K-menber in placeRoom you have between cylinder head and framerail are soo stinking tight for my bigass hand(you know what they say about man with big hand ), that i had to employ my GF(with much smaller hand) to get the nut started, after dropping engine down as far as it go down(which was nurvewrecking...)
View attachment 494201

So i always tell people that any time you'll save by not dropping K is going to be consumed by fighting with those bolts, and not to mention infamous 3rd bolts on starter

LOL exactly...as far as im conserned, it would be impossbale for me to install the BBK LTS without the K. We had to drop the motor WAY down to where the oilpan was hitting the sway bar, and then WAY up to where the motor was just about touching the hood just to get the bolts in.
BTW the pic brings back memorys...not sure if they are good lol.

mity2 · Dec 20, 2005

i can't remenber what it was, but I think I had something else other then sway bar that got in the way of dropping engine down. I think it might have been powersteering line or A/C line..

Help with Headers???

Mustangman5.0

merc123

Active Member

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.

invertmast

Mustangman5.0

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.

invertmast

FalconGuy016

New Member

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.

invertmast

hotmustang331

Active Member

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.

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