help with me a lsd or locker
- Thread starter 65notch
- Start date
Detriot Tru-Trac is a Torsen style differential
Torque sensing, and very smooth. No clutches to wear out, uses standard Hypoid gear lube. Unless you get the one that is spring pre-loaded it will not lock up if one wheel has zero traction (like one wheel on ice and the other on asphault. Otherwise it works great and is built like a steel vault.
If you want some good info, google search on Torsen differentials.
Scott
Torque sensing, and very smooth. No clutches to wear out, uses standard Hypoid gear lube. Unless you get the one that is spring pre-loaded it will not lock up if one wheel has zero traction (like one wheel on ice and the other on asphault. Otherwise it works great and is built like a steel vault.
If you want some good info, google search on Torsen differentials.
Scott
I have a true trac in my car, and it spins both tires in a straight line. In corners, the harder I gas it as I exit, the sooner it attempts to lock up both wheels. If I don't give it gas as I turn the corner it is smooth (like an open differential). I like the combination of smoothness with the ability to lock both wheels if I take off quickly, and no clutches to wear out.
steel1212 said:
True enough, but I'd say they are in between the traditional LSD and a soft locker, kind of like both of them and the full locker are all in between the open and the spool.
So you have:
- OPEN
- LSD
- TrueTrac
- SoftLocker
- FullLocker
- Spool
The truetrac is essentailly an LSD that wont wear out so fast and the soft-locker wont be as harsh, they are both in the middle of the other options.
BTW, I don't think this was a hijack at all, we've been on-topic here more than usual
Great68
Founding Member
I love my Powertrax no slip. At first I was worried about the street manners, considering I don't drag a whole lot. But I was pleasantly surprised how mild it was on the street, and then when I did a burnout and both tires lit up with little effort It put a huge smile on my face.
the only complaints I have about my detroit are that when I change lanes on the highway the backend will kind of readjust itself and ge real squirelly, causing my stomach to tie itself into a knot every time...its kind of hard to describe.
and whenever somebody is in the car and I go around a tight corner the car clanks like hell, and people are always like...."uhhh is there something wrong with the car?"
I'm thinking of going with a clutchless LSD in my 68, but I also don't want to deal with traction loss....or maybe an electric locker that switches between an open differential and a spool?
and whenever somebody is in the car and I go around a tight corner the car clanks like hell, and people are always like...."uhhh is there something wrong with the car?"
I'm thinking of going with a clutchless LSD in my 68, but I also don't want to deal with traction loss....or maybe an electric locker that switches between an open differential and a spool?
There are a number of brands that all fit that category, but basically it is a regular locker that ratchets quicker and less violently than the traditional locker (Detroit Locker is now an actual brand, back in the day it was a type not a brand). The one I have is a PowerTrax "Lock-Right", soft lockers are reported to click insteead of clank. How's THAT for a technical description? LOL.steel1212 said:
The difference is small but significant between them and the TT...the TT will slip until it is forced to engage with the throttle/brake and the locker will engage until it is forced to slip by wheel speed differentials.
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=power+trax&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp
Ok what is the difference between these 2 for there to be a 200$ difference?
Ok what is the difference between these 2 for there to be a 200$ difference?
The "Lock Right" is stouter and more aggressive of the two. The "No slip" (another bad marketing term) is softer and from what I read when it disengages in a turn it stays disengaged until the car straightens out, that is how they avoid the clicking.steel1212 said:
Read these two pages:
LOCK-RIGHT = http://powertrax.com/lroperation.html
NO-SLIP = http://powertrax.com/nsoperation.html
LMan
Founding Member
steel1212 said:I wonder if I'll hear it over flow 40s
It always amuses me to hear guys with loud mufflers and boomer-stereos in their Mustangs fret over whether their differential is going to 'tick tick tick' around corners
FORCED2DV8
New Member
My detroit locker is quite loud also, you definatly hear turning. Has anyone tried the new magnetic lockers, OPen diff regularly then you hit the button and a elstric magnent engages it so its like a spool, Or also thereis thr ARB air lockers, same principal but air pressure lock and unlock the diff, They use these primarly in off road applications, but those guys beat on them pretty hard, I would think they would hold up the street. Has anyone tried these??
LMan
Founding Member
DarkoStoj said:
Hmmmmm well IMO a Trac-Loc is sufficient for street and some/most casual track use..they typically will last 30-40K miles before a rebuild, and most of us won't drive a classic Mustang that far in a lifetime (a latemodel Mustang would be a different story). I've not heard a modern DL bang that much, but perhaps my samples were just unusually quiet.
Like all things there are tradeoffs. A DL is about indestructable but it does bring some noise. I personally would not care but as my car is 100% opentrack now you would not be able to hear the rear over the engine singing, shifter banging, etc
I have heard bad things about Powertrax, etc for racing (well, my preferred type, anyway). These are units intended first for the 4x4/offroad crowd and have migrated over to street cars to a certain extent. I know of 2 racers who tried them in opentrack cars and the unpredictable timing of the 'lock and unlock' about sent them spinning into the Armco coming out of turns
They have DLs now 
I would thus avoid any diffs that are primarily for 4x4s.
I think the SoftLocker would be a good choice.
The ARB AirLocker works fine, from what Ive heard, but I don;t know why I would spend spend spend to install some air-pressure thing when I can get a locker and fugggedaboudddit.
But again I am coming at this from a "fringe" perspective to most people.
Ok guys, this discussion has awesome timing. I was thinking about purchasing a Torque-Loc third member on e-bay.
Now I am wondering what that really is. I would think it is a knock off of Traction-Loc. Am I correct?
As I understand it, touching the ring and pinion (removal or assembly) requires special knowledge and shims, checking the angle of the mesh etc.
The question I need answered is if you can add a Locker/T-Loc etc to a 3rd member without messing around with the Gear Setup.
Now I am wondering what that really is. I would think it is a knock off of Traction-Loc. Am I correct?
As I understand it, touching the ring and pinion (removal or assembly) requires special knowledge and shims, checking the angle of the mesh etc.
The question I need answered is if you can add a Locker/T-Loc etc to a 3rd member without messing around with the Gear Setup.
Ok what are a list of lockers considered to be "soft lockers" as this seems to be the way to go for me. I like the idea of the No-slip powertrax that stays open during turns and then locks back up instead of ratcheting. I wish somebody around me had a car with a detroit type locker so I could see what its like.
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