Help with prepping GT for tune...

Unreal281

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Dec 18, 2004
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Sup guys.....all my mods are in my sig.....I'm looking at a few things for the GT before sending it to kauffmans for a tune

1. VT stage 2 NA cams and comp springs

2. Typhoon Satin intake manifold (3 Peice)

3. 24 lb. injectors FRPP

My question would be.....what fuel pump should i buy???? what company and what flow???

Also....to complete everything...which mass air meter should i get? and what size.....
:SNSign:
 
Unreal281 said:
2. Typhoon Satin intake manifold (3 Peice)

well I'd save your money and forget about the Typhoon manifold... the general consensus is it sucks @ss, and for your purposes the PI manifold is more than good enough. I also agree with Jstreet, there is no way you'll be pegging the MAF with those mods. if you were installing a blower, then that would be a different story
 
I disagree with the MAF.....a less restrictive housing can benefit alot! I would go either pmas pro m 80 mm with the power pipe.....I tested about all of them and with that set up it netted 13 more rwhp than the bbk with stock meter on a custom dyno tune for both and about 18 rwhp over the stock intake tube and meter! It is restrictive as hell! I have a similar setup going in and am unsure about the typhoon! All the tests I have seen so far havn't been impressive but they been without a dyno tune and on supercharged applacations! Without adjusting the tune the intake really isn't gonna improve. The A/F ratios on top end richen un quite a bit so I am waiting for some more testing with the intake and a before tune and after tune comparrison with both intakes! The potential is there.....just need more rpms and a good tune to match!

"ED"
 
If you want a good fuel pump...go with the steeda replacement.....it flows 40% more fuel and is a bosch unit....rated around 190lph! I have one with frpp 24 lbs injector and it feels good and works alot better! As far as the VT stage 2 cams........you will net about 30-35 more rwhp throughout and close to 45-50 top end with a good dyno tune! I am wainting for cams myself but seen some before and after #'s and wow! And with a good tune it really didn't lose any low end tq! Maybe about 5 down around 2500rpms.....basically its all in the tune! Good Luck!

"ED"
 
Kilgore Trout said:
Changing MAF requires a tune and that is most likely where your power came from.

Yea but I had a custom tune after every mod! With the AFM Power Pipe...believe it or not it gained about 17ftlbs of tq and 15 rwhp in the 4100 rpm range over the bbk/ pipe with custom tune! The thing is amazing......I blow alot of money on the dyno! lol

4R70W stock cams/block/heads full bolt ons and tried all the parts! 265rwhp and 304 rwtq. and that was at 104 deg temp outside!

"ED"
 
Yellow2002GT said:
I disagree with the MAF.....a less restrictive housing can benefit alot! I would go either pmas pro m 80 mm with the power pipe.....I tested about all of them and with that set up it netted 13 more rwhp than the bbk with stock meter on a custom dyno tune for both and about 18 rwhp over the stock intake tube and meter! It is restrictive as hell! I have a similar setup going in and am unsure about the typhoon! All the tests I have seen so far havn't been impressive but they been without a dyno tune and on supercharged applacations! Without adjusting the tune the intake really isn't gonna improve. The A/F ratios on top end richen un quite a bit so I am waiting for some more testing with the intake and a before tune and after tune comparrison with both intakes! The potential is there.....just need more rpms and a good tune to match!

"ED"

The stock MAF is not a restriction period. Any gains you made were from the tune, not the MAF. And before recommending the steeda fuel pump, you should do a little research, as there are MUCH cheaper alternatives that will flow just as well or better for right around $100. In the case of the original poster there is no sense in him spending money on the MAF, injectors, or fuel pump, as there are no gains to be had with his current mods. I would suggest saving that money and the money for the intake and investing in some ported heads.
 
jstreet0204 said:
The stock MAF is not a restriction period. Any gains you made were from the tune, not the MAF. And before recommending the steeda fuel pump, you should do a little research, as there are MUCH cheaper alternatives that will flow just as well or better for right around $100. In the case of the original poster there is no sense in him spending money on the MAF, injectors, or fuel pump, as there are no gains to be had with his current mods. I would suggest saving that money and the money for the intake and investing in some ported heads.

LOL if you read my message...you would have seen that both were dyno tuned to the fullest capacity! I dyno tune my car alot......after even minor mods.....believe it or not the stock meter may handle the flow....but the design of the pro-m 80mm maf is light years above any other! People add bolt ons and dump money in parts all the time but never get the desired result because they don't dyno tune their combinations! Just let me say that a 4 in intake with a great breathing maf will net big gains in the 3000-5000 rpm range! Most people judge hp by peak hp numbers but the secret to make the 4.6 faster in improving the entire rpm range. Ford puts way to much timing down low in the 4.6 from the factory and it actually loves less timing in the low rpm ranges! Most tuners tun the top end a/f's and small number are gained. I use Dan at Pro-Dyno in Charlotte and he will fix all the timing and a/f's throughout the power band! Lets just say I wasted thousands of dollars with hand held tuners and equipment and found that maf/ obdII cars need to be dyno tuned....even from mild bolt ons!

"ED"
 
Yellow2002GT said:
LOL if you read my message...you would have seen that both were dyno tuned to the fullest capacity! I dyno tune my car alot......after even minor mods.....believe it or not the stock meter may handle the flow....but the design of the pro-m 80mm maf is light years above any other! People add bolt ons and dump money in parts all the time but never get the desired result because they don't dyno tune their combinations! Just let me say that a 4 in intake with a great breathing maf will net big gains in the 3000-5000 rpm range! Most people judge hp by peak hp numbers but the secret to make the 4.6 faster in improving the entire rpm range. Ford puts way to much timing down low in the 4.6 from the factory and it actually loves less timing in the low rpm ranges! Most tuners tun the top end a/f's and small number are gained. I use Dan at Pro-Dyno in Charlotte and he will fix all the timing and a/f's throughout the power band! Lets just say I wasted thousands of dollars with hand held tuners and equipment and found that maf/ obdII cars need to be dyno tuned....even from mild bolt ons!

"ED"

Actually the ProM 80mm is not light years ahead, since as with most aftermrket MAF's it has greater voltage fluctuation than oem meters. I'm sure you tuner loves you and fills you with all that great knowledge everytime you pay his bill, but anybody considering an after market MAF should read the following posted by Ed Clark, one of the best tuners out there.
Ed Clark
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MAF replacement
Folks,

I've been looking through the threads here and have noticed a trend. This has been discussed before but I'm going to be more blunt.
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This trend is mass air meter problems from needlessly changing out a perfectly working stock MAF sensor.

The real problem is that these problems are owner induced almost 100 percent of the time. They start the instant an aftermarket meter is ordered and installed for a car that doesn't need one.

The worst culprit is C&L (sorry C&L). Folks buy these cause they are cheap and appear to be easy power gains. I recently had to retune one of these meters that was installed on a near stock 99GT and had the full C&L treatment on the intake side. IT WAS 35% LEAN ACROSS THE ENTIRE RANGE. This is not uncommon.

ProM meters are better but can still be commonly far enough off to make the car run poorly. Even meters calibrated for stock injectors with a stock curve can vary from stock specs enough to cause issues. Also the exact location and orientation of the MAF can have great affects on the mixture that aren't the MAF sensor's fault. The larger the injector calibration on the MAF sensor the greater the likelyhood of the error.

The computer is capable of pulling about 20 percent fuel to correct rich and adding about 30 percent to correct for lean. Now even though the computer can learn and make these corrections it doesn't mean that it does it good enough to make the car run under all conditions correctly. It can't. It's said that power gains from a MAF swap come from leaning the mixture. But computer is going to try to correct any lean mixture based on O2 sensor voltages. In stock form the computer will even apply these trends learned to WOT.

Then say throw in a mail order chip or a self tuning device and your now hosed. It will run like crap. So a custom tune is then required to reestablish a correct Mass air transfer curve. Once that's done where are you going to get the power gain from? In fact even once corrected it's probably not as accurate as the stock meter.

My suggestions are:

1. Don't buy an aftermarket MAF as a POWER MOD. You buy one if you need to meter more air for your combination. Mainly supercharged setups. I've yet to see a NA 2v peg a stock MAF. Close but not yet. Maybe Ken will.
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2. While most tuners can recalibrate any injector/MAF calibration combos try to keep MAFs calibrated for the injectors in use. This allows for simple troubleshooting by simply removing custom chips. The car should still run "OKAY".

3. Keep the screen installed, it's there for reason and it's not trapping debris.

4. Try to only use kits that mount the air filter directly to the front of the MAF sensor.

5. I've never seen an aftermarket MAF that didn't need to be retuned to some degree no matter the calibration. If you have a an aftermarket MAF you probably need a custom tune. If you don't your one of the lucky few.

6. Don't modify the stock MAF. And that means don't cut out the post. It's there for a good reason, air flows around it just fine and removing it WILL affect calibration of the meter. Thus causing the same kind of issues as an aftermarket MAF sensor.

Bottom line is the MAF isn't a restriction for large percentage of people. The Ford meters are more consistant than any aftermarket meter that I've seen so why spend money on them you don't need to.

Ed
 
If you're getting the VT Stage 2 N/A cams.. Make sure to get the Manley Nextek valvesprings.

Comp valvesprings only allow for up to .550" lift.. Manley allow for up to .580" lift. Since the cams are .560/.575 lift, then the better option would be the Manley springs, altho it's an extra $40 :nice:
 
Since your bringing the car to us I'd go with the cams and valve springs. The stock pump will be fine along with the fuel injectors. I'd also stay with the stock mass air. Also the results we've been hearing about the intake from other shops be it N/A or supercharged that the stock intake is better. So the stock intake and your throttle body and plentum, you'll be good to go. The only they I'd do is replace the stock plugs and put some copper one's in and make sure you have high test fuel.