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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Help with prochamber installation!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter supastang03
  • Start date Start date May 2, 2004

supastang03

Member
Mar 17, 2004
214
0
16
Miami/Gainesville UF
May 2, 2004
#1
  • May 2, 2004
  • #1
ok guys, i just ordered my prochamber like 20 mins ago from ebay for 220. it should be coming in soon, so heres my question....i have heard that u need a few other parts for the installation, and i wanna make sure i have everything i need to install it when it comes in. can u guys please let me know exactly which parts i need (bolts, gaskets, silicone...etc.), and maybe even a few tips for the installation, id really appriecite it. thanks in advance.
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
May 2, 2004
#2
  • May 2, 2004
  • #2
NAPA PN#600-1819.
you may not need it, but then you might. might as well change it while your there.
Oh and you want to have several extention, and swible joint thing for passenger side. And I hope you remenbered to get MIL Eliminater
 

pdl2flr

New Member
Dec 17, 2003
154
0
0
Leesburg, VA
May 2, 2004
#3
  • May 2, 2004
  • #3
I just installed my MRT H pipe this morning. It came with a new OEM passenger side gasket which I used. MRT also recommended putting a bead of High Temp RTV silicone sealant on the inside of the bell flange on the drivers side of the mid pipe. So far everything seems to be sealed up fine.
 

supastang03

Member
Mar 17, 2004
214
0
16
Miami/Gainesville UF
May 2, 2004
#4
  • May 2, 2004
  • #4
does the prochamber come with an oem gasket? and are those bolts the only other thin i'll need?
 

kirkyg

Founding Member
Jun 14, 2002
3,568
1
56
Beaumont, TX
May 3, 2004
#5
  • May 3, 2004
  • #5
2 tips:

1) use the NAPA part listed above and change out the studs on the DRIVERS SIDE manifold. This will help you torque down the flange far enough to seal it off and prevent an exhaust leak.

2) DO NOT remove the stock gasket. LEave it stuck to the manifold and bolt up the prochamber. All these people having trouble with gasket leaks is because they never should have removed the stock gasket to begin with.

kirkyg
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
May 3, 2004
#6
  • May 3, 2004
  • #6
kirkyg said:
2) DO NOT remove the stock gasket. LEave it stuck to the manifold and bolt up the prochamber. All these people having trouble with gasket leaks is because they never should have removed the stock gasket to begin with.

kirkyg
Click to expand...

this is true. It is so hard to line then bastared right while your bolting up the X-pipe....
I'm still struggleing...
 
2

281Ponies

New Member
Nov 14, 2003
190
0
0
May 3, 2004
#7
  • May 3, 2004
  • #7
I know most people change the drivers side exhaust studs out without a problem but I was afraid of snapping one off and having to drill it out. So, I did some digging in the parts bin at a friends parts house and found a metal donut gasket for what I believe was an older buick exhaust system, I just can’t remember and was looking for the first thing that would work. It was the perfect size, not to restrict exhaust flow and extended the flange length enough to fill the gap nicely with the factory studs in place. Used a little gasket sealer to hold it in place while installing the mid-pipe and never had a problem since.

Just thought I’d throw this out there as another possible option to replacing the factory studs, it's easy enough to replace the studs I agree but with my luck I would have snapped one off. Perhaps someone who works at or has access to a parts bin can find such a gasket and part number if enough people seem interested. I would but have since moved and unfortunately can’t remember exactly what this metal gasket fits.

Anyway, it does work great I have used it several times swapping out mid-pipes on my car and I’m running a prochamber now.

my 2cfm's
-Cale
 

kirkyg

Founding Member
Jun 14, 2002
3,568
1
56
Beaumont, TX
May 3, 2004
#8
  • May 3, 2004
  • #8
All you need is any tool that is fairly low-profile and can get around the stud and turn it loose...whats its broken lose its not bad unscrewing it.

kirkyg
 

supastang03

Member
Mar 17, 2004
214
0
16
Miami/Gainesville UF
May 3, 2004
#9
  • May 3, 2004
  • #9
well thanx for all the input guys...one other thing...should i buy the MIL elimators now...or wait to see if i need them. i have heard that sometimes u dont even need them, is this true, bc id like to save the 60 bucks.
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
May 3, 2004
#10
  • May 3, 2004
  • #10
if your going to go with O/R pipe, you will need them. CEL will not come on right away(it took about 4 days for mine to come on), but sooner or later, it will
 
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