help with steeda upper control arms!!

stonegod85

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

208

0

0

Columbia, South Carolina

Mar 19, 2006

#1

• Mar 19, 2006

• #1

so i got the lowers in ....i have the double adjustable uppers with the new bushings to go into the differetial side. after spending 30 minutes to get the passenger side arm off and experiencing massive bind we moved on to the removal of the old rubber diff. bushings. these bastards are so hard to remove, the drill bit idea doesn't work very well....anyone have any pointers??? i really need to get this stuff cleared out!

 

R

Red2000GT

Founding Member

Sep 10, 2000

2,450

0

46

Regina,Sask.Canada

Mar 19, 2006

#2

• Mar 19, 2006

• #2

You can torch them out,just make sure the area around where the torch is isn't caked in oil or anything flammable.

 

tomustang

Psychotic Member

Founding Member

Jun 8, 2000

3,434

2

78

McLean Hospital

Mar 19, 2006

#3

• Mar 19, 2006

• #3

burn,
impact chizel,
axle bushing removal tool

 

DropTopPony

Noob Slayer

Founding Member

Aug 13, 2002

2,570

3

48

south jersey

Mar 19, 2006

#4

• Mar 19, 2006

• #4

tomustang said:

burn,
impact chizel,
axle bushing removal tool

Click to expand...

I used all of those
I also had this metal grinding thing that worked out nice. It was the toughest part of the job.

 

Y

Yellow2002GT

New Member

Feb 20, 2006

148

1

0

Raeford, NC/ FT Bragg

Mar 19, 2006

#5

• Mar 19, 2006

• #5

Gus...I got your back....the dremel and a screw driver really works....!! lol

"ED"

 

damacman

Member

Aug 12, 2003

529

0

16

Phoenix, AZ

Mar 19, 2006

#6

• Mar 19, 2006

• #6

I used the largest diameter hole-saw that I could fit inside the bushing "ear" chucked up in my porter cable 14.4 volt drill (a 1/2 " Snap-On PDR-5A would be better . . . ). Once I removed the bulk of the bushings that way, I used an air die grinder with a small bit to clean out the rest.

Time consuming, dirty, and un-rewarding job . . .

 

K

Ken01GTvert

Member

Aug 27, 2003

175

0

16

Colorado

Mar 19, 2006

#7

• Mar 19, 2006

• #7

I used the drill, torch, scrape method which was a major PITA and time killer. Here's a tool that you can get from MM that supposed to make it easier: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/rucabushing.asp

 

stonegod85

New Member

Mar 30, 2005

208

0

0

Columbia, South Carolina

Mar 20, 2006

#8

• Mar 20, 2006

• #8

me and yellow2002gt went to town on the passenger side with a drill then a mallet and socket to get the zerk fitting out and then a dremel with a nasty looking bit that ate through some of the metal....gave the ear a nice shiny look and the new bushing slid right in with some silicone spray. now for the driver side today!! i hope these are worth changin out!!

 

DropTopPony

Noob Slayer

Founding Member

Aug 13, 2002

2,570

3

48

south jersey

Mar 20, 2006

#9

• Mar 20, 2006

• #9

Its worth it, after i finished with all that crap and put everything together..( i hope you used extra jackstands to keep the axle lined up otherwise getting stuff lined up is a bitch ) the finished product was great. I did all my suspension at once so the after ride was a Kool Aid grin from ear to ear as I was taking turns at double my normal speed.