HELP!

slow5.0gt

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Aug 12, 2006

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Sep 24, 2006

#1

• Sep 24, 2006

• #1

My car is currently at the gas station so if anyone can help me narrow it down a bit that would be great.

Started it up to go cruising earlier got to the gas station and filled up, tried turning on the car and nothing it would crank and crank checked my fuel pressure guage getting fuel so spark? i stuck a screw driver in one of the plugs and had a friend watch while i cranked it but correct me if im wrong doesnt the screw driver have to be grounded in order to see a spark? well it wasnt grounded so I concluded no spark.

Could the stator be the source of the problem? I only ask because I know its bad it does the bucking/surging thing under 2k, the starter solenoid works because I jumped the postive and negative with the screw driver

any ideas?!

Im almost postive that the problem is the stator/ PIP? if so can i replace it easily without removing the distrubtor from the car? I dont have a timing light to realign it again and its at a gas station

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 24, 2006

#2

• Sep 24, 2006

• #2

If it cranks (whir whir whir), the solenoid is fine.

To check spark: you might be mixing two methods.

If you simply remove a plug wire and put something in the boot, there needs to be a slight air gap between the item you jamb in the plug wire and the grounding surface. Like if you use a screw, leave the screw danging a hair above the upper intake. Watch spark jump the gap from the head of the screw to the plenum.

Alternate method: if you have a spare spark plug (best idea), put it in the plug wire and rest the threads of the spark plug on the plenum. Now with the threads touching the plenum really good, watch the spark jump the spark plug's gap.
This method is best since the gap is preset. With the screw, if it raises-up and makes too large an air gap, a healthy ignition might not be able to jump the gap.

If you have electrical contact cleaner, you can spray down the PIP. That would clean it and cool it off a little.

To check injector pulsing, you'd really need a noid light. You can try putting a test light on the injector connector. Put the test light between the two wires to a given injector. Then watch while someone cranks the motor over. If the test light does anything, chances are the electrical side of the injector wiring is working.

An ignition issue is the most likely.

Good luck.

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 24, 2006

#3

• Sep 24, 2006

• #3

Did you get it home?

 

slow5.0gt

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Sep 24, 2006

#4

• Sep 24, 2006

• #4

lol fell asleep but im off to do it now results to conclude, im planning on replacing the pip first since i already have the part

 

slow5.0gt

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Sep 24, 2006

#5

• Sep 24, 2006

• #5

ok update I changed the stator/pip, channged a bad ignition coil i get spark from the coil to the cap but no spark at all to #1 wtf is going on? bad cap and rotor? i just changed those 2 months ago

 

8

86bluecobra

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Dec 20, 2004

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Sep 24, 2006

#6

• Sep 24, 2006

• #6

sounds like the modual on the dizzy is bad. Not sending the spark to the dizzy.

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 24, 2006

#7

• Sep 24, 2006

• #7

If you have spark from the coil, the PIP and TFI are working at that time (not to say there's not an intermittant issue).

I've not seen carbon brushes make much of a difference since the days of old Beetles......... That would not be high on my list. Recheck for spark using an old spark plug if you can. Ground the threads really well on the intake plenum. It's always good to spend 30 seconds checking twice than hours chasing the wrong issue (speaking from experience).

Lastly, check that the metal tip on the rotor didnt burn off. I did that once - the warning was flames coming out from under the bonnet due to the misfire out the carb throats.

Good luck.

 

slow5.0gt

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Sep 25, 2006

#8

• Sep 25, 2006

• #8

I had the modual checked yesterday while checking the ignition coil and it was good ran the test twice, I checked again for spark from the coil to the cap and shocked the crap out of my hand this time but still nothing to the #1 plug
I cant tell if the rotor tip was burned off since its made of graphite and its black i do see little white carbon buildup? on the cap and a little on the rotor itself.

 

slow5.0gt

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Sep 25, 2006

#9

• Sep 25, 2006

• #9

update: Ok now i get intermitt spark to the #1 but I still am going to replace that cap and rotor since the rotor looks a little burned out

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 25, 2006

#10

• Sep 25, 2006

• #10

slow5.0gt said:

I cant tell if the rotor tip was burned off since its made of graphite and its black i do see little white carbon buildup? on the cap and a little on the rotor itself.

Click to expand...

Are you talkin about the carbon brush? The tip of the rotor is what sends spark to the contacts in the cap and is made of metal. If you removed your cap, you'd have known it quick.

Good luck.

 

8

86bluecobra

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Sep 25, 2006

#11

• Sep 25, 2006

• #11

perhaps it is just an issue of the cap being worn out but usally even with a worn out cap it will run but miss. Unless like Hissin pointed out the top tab in the dizzy rotor is not making contact with the dizzy cap where the coil wire comes in.

 

slow5.0gt

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Sep 25, 2006

#12

• Sep 25, 2006

• #12

it gets spark to the plugs, coil works good, fuel pump and pressure read normal injectors turn on but still no start up will start with starting fluid but once it runs out it wont start seems like its not getting fuel arggh!

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 25, 2006

#13

• Sep 25, 2006

• #13

Check your fuel pressure with another gauge if you can.

Make sure the TPS signal return is not shorted (reading 3.7+ volts).

Good luck.

 

slow5.0gt

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Sep 26, 2006

#14

• Sep 26, 2006

• #14

I got this number from a different reference it says should be .98-.99 volts but ill test it right now I dont have another one to test it but ill trust it as best as I can

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/tps.php

 

HISSIN50

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Sep 26, 2006

#15

• Sep 26, 2006

• #15

slow5.0gt said:

I got this number from a different reference it says should be .98-.99 volts but ill test it right now I dont have another one to test it but ill trust it as best as I can

http://www.muscularmustangs.com/tps.php

Click to expand...

Yep.
The reason I mentioned testing it: if the TPS reads ~ 3.7 volts or higher, the computer shuts off the injector pulse. Since you seem to have narrowed it down to a fuel issue, it is worth spending 30 seconds just to make sure the TPS and/or its wiring didn't short (which would keep your injectors from firing).

Good luck.