help
- Thread starter 94sn95lred
- Start date
Hello.
That's about the shortest opening post I've ever seen.
If you cycle the key a couple of times before ever trying to start the car, does it fire right up?
Does it crank longer when the car has sat overnight compared to sitting for 20 minutes?
Good luck.
That's about the shortest opening post I've ever seen.
If you cycle the key a couple of times before ever trying to start the car, does it fire right up?
Does it crank longer when the car has sat overnight compared to sitting for 20 minutes?
Good luck.
bill302
Active Member
need more info.. when was the last tune up including fuel filter change, fuel pressure check and compression test. have you pulled codes..how many miles are on the car...also check out this site i posted below in it are other things you can do like clean maf and iac..http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maintain.php answer these few questions and we may be able to help you better it could be a tune up issue including a stopped up fuel filter,weak fuel pump,bad pressure regulator,vacuum leak ect....
sorry new to the site. not much to explain. got the car about a month ago, wrecked... its fixed now but it cranks for like i said 5-10 seconds... its got new plugs and wires. i havent been able to drive it yet so i wouldnt be able to do compression tests or change filter or check pump... its only got 86000 miles.. ive already tried the cycle of the key and that didnt do a thing. thanks for help.
charles
charles
Just to be clear: it's not literally cycling the key as quickly possible - the idea is to let the fuel pump prime several times before cranking the engine over. I suggest this test fairly often because a lot of folks don't have a fuel pressure gauge. The FP gauge can be a much better tool/diagnostic tool to use if someone has one.
Good luck.
Good luck.
gcomfx.com
Founding Member
You can do a compression check without driving the car.... but Hissin is right, "MANY" times it's the fuel pressure.
You do a comp check by using a compression tester. It screws into the spark plug hole, then you crank the engine 3-4 revs noting the comp value. you can do this once " DRY" then repeat by squirting some atf into the cyl first, then install guage again and crank, once again noting values. This is a "WET" test. then u can determine valve problems or piston and ring problems. The trained ear can sometimes hear comp loss but then usually has to confirm findings.
so just because i ask a question means im illiterate? i have been around cars my whole life. ive just never owned a ford... i know what cycle the key means and i know what a compression test does... i work at a dealership in my home town. i do not have a compression meter so i cannot perform the check. aka the reason i want to drive the car to get it checked. im assuming the fuel pump is shot. because cycling the key doesnt do it. the car is to low to trailer all the time because i cannot clime in and out of the window everytime i want to take it somewhere. twice is enough. sorry for acting out but i joined the site for help. and all ive really gotten is some remarks that didnt help. they could have been kept to themselves... i got the car wrecked. it had slight front end tweekage. slightly moved to the right. i only had to have it straightend and a few body parts. bumper cover, hood, both fenders, header pannel and lights... it has alot of mods from what i can see. mac shorty headers, off road x and flowmaster mufflers dumped. its got a ported intake with 65mm throttle body and cai. MSD wires and block, fireball ignition, intrax lowering springs. i am awaiting the bumpercover and hood and i can go get it inspected and its ready to drive... i have owned a few cars in my life and im only 18! i am a car fanatic and know whats what with cars. this is just my first ford and i was only wondering about a couple small things that are easy fixes. i didnt ask for nonsense answers. again sorry for being a jerk if thats what you get of this message. hopefully this is enough information for you.
gcomfx.com
Founding Member
First off this is one of the calmest forums online. You ask THIS question anywhere else, you better put on your flame suit.
Second, if you work at a dealership, why on earth are you acting the way you are? Walk into the shop and spout out, "car turns over for about 5-10 seconds before starts. what is the problem" - see how many good responses you get.
car turns over for about 5-10 seconds before starts. what is the problem
Second, if you work at a dealership, why on earth are you acting the way you are? Walk into the shop and spout out, "car turns over for about 5-10 seconds before starts. what is the problem" - see how many good responses you get.
Easy tiger. 
No one was attacking you - we want to see you get your car fixed.
We don't know you, and you were providing almost no information in your opening or any other posts. We had no idea if you understood any reasoning behind any suggestions - only because you didnt provide any actual insight regarding what happened when you tried a test. And we haven't seen any objective data. All too often something doesn't get tested because a test or idea wasn't initially understood or something was lost in the translation. Then days are wasted chasing down systems when in fact the original system was the cause. We feared this could have been an issue here.
Can you see why we reiterated ideas now? Unfortunately we don't get to meet and get to know you, nor are we privvy to your background knowledge. We can only go off what was posted. I actually think we are a very respectful and helpful group here.
Now for the issue, compression wasn't something I'd test. But some tools would be necessary for the things I would do.
Good luck.
No one was attacking you - we want to see you get your car fixed. We don't know you, and you were providing almost no information in your opening or any other posts. We had no idea if you understood any reasoning behind any suggestions - only because you didnt provide any actual insight regarding what happened when you tried a test. And we haven't seen any objective data. All too often something doesn't get tested because a test or idea wasn't initially understood or something was lost in the translation. Then days are wasted chasing down systems when in fact the original system was the cause. We feared this could have been an issue here.
Can you see why we reiterated ideas now? Unfortunately we don't get to meet and get to know you, nor are we privvy to your background knowledge. We can only go off what was posted. I actually think we are a very respectful and helpful group here.
Now for the issue, compression wasn't something I'd test. But some tools would be necessary for the things I would do.
Good luck.
ok, i did take things to seriously and in the wrong direction. sorry. also i work at a gm car dealership and the mechanics there are boneheads... to be honest i wouldnt trust any of them working on my vehicles. but by what i had said was a simple question why it wasnt starting like it should, theres only a couple different things it could be so i didnt think there was need for a thural explanation, but now i know. sorry. plus the anxiety of owning a ford and wanting to drive it but cant cause theres snow and salt and gravel all over the roads kinda pushes the dreams away for a while lol. my bad, no hard feelings.
charles
charles
gcomfx.com
Founding Member
i even ride snowmobile but right now cars cooler lol
If the engine turns over strong (even while it won't actually start), it's not the battery.
Good luck.
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