Here is a 99 Cobra I MIGHT trade for...

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car does look a little rough.. ide wait for another one personally.. doesnt look like it was well taken care of on the outside so you can only imagine about the inside... and yes all 99 cobra's had the word mustang on the back
 
Please don't take any offence to my criticisims but that Cobra you are looking at is not worth your time.

The Grinding in reverse is a bad sign, you really want to stay away from that, reverse is an important gear and if it goes then you're in for another tranny.

The motor idling issues are just not good no matter what the temperature is, it may be a sensor, it may be something worse but it's not a good sign because it may cost you some money.

The fact that the clutch is burnt isn't too big of a concern given the age of the car, but it's still money out of your pocket to get a new one.

The road rash on the front bumper is bad, not as bad as it could be but bad enough, I would think your 02 would be alot nicer paint wise.

Swapping out the stereo is more time and cash from your pocket (you see what I'm getting at).

You seem to really want this car despite the problems and money that it will seperate you from. Yes the car is a Cobra and it's a sweet fast car to begin with but in my humble opinion there are better and nicer Cobras out there that are worth your time and trade in. Add up what some of the new parts will cost you and think about it.

But some people see a diamond in the rough, do what you think is right man, after all it's if you are happy or not that counts.

:SNSign:
 
Other than the minor body damage i thought the engine was very well kept and looked great. I'd love to test drive the **** out of it to see how well she ran exactly. But maybe i will later in the week.

When i was driving that thing around town it didn't impress me all too much (power wise). I was expecting a 99 cora with 320 stock horse + full exhaust to have some balls...but in its defense, i didn't really get on it, we drove around town. I took it to 6k in 1st and 2nd from a stop sign, but that was about it. I think i was doing 55 in a 40 at one point, that was the most i was able to taker her up to. I'll try for a highway later in the week.

I'm more interested about the grinding transmisison in reverse, the clutch and how the engine performs when u get on it.

the body damage is really minor in my opinion. And like i said if i can own a nice 99 cobra and eventually get some money over the summer and fix the body damage, i'd love to have the car. Because it may have been beat on in the past, but it sure would have a good owner now. :) I never beat on my GT, seriously, you wouldn't even be able to tell im a mustang owner, i baby my GT so much :)

As for the headers rusting out that someone said. this dealer said they will do any repairs/fixes to the car necessary to make it pass jersey inspection. So if the LT headers, mid-pipe and catback didn't pass inspection, they would change it for me for free so it would.

Nooww....if it rusted out say in 3 months after it passed inspection, well then by that time i would get a new SLP LT header set up and install it :) If the headers didn't rust out already, then they wont within the next coming spring and summer months. It may bey winter, sure..but i'll have PLENTY of money by then.

As soon as the summer hits i will graduate school and will be working full time at a dealership.

Part of the reason why i want a cobra. because once the mod bug hits me, i dont want to be dumping money in to my GT, when i should have been dumpnig money into the cobra :D Not to mention money for mods is never enough to save for a new car. So its not like i could save for a new cobra either.
 
Not to get off the subject but whats the most anybody has seen out of a N/A Cobra? Iis kinda funny all ive seen is 325RWHP!! I would be sure that it could make at least 375-400RWHP With Cams and Ported Heads
 
UDT i would buy that car. body condition looks ok to me. interior looks ok and the engine looks fine. i agree about having the compression checked and check it for leaks and other stuff. the guages are correct so is everything else. even has the original motor. ( the replacement motors did not have the handbuilt sig sticker on it)

if it checks out and you don't want it tell him a guy with a green 01 gt with perfect mechanicals but some nicks and scratches will be coming to see him :D
 
Is this a ford dealer or just some mismatched dealer who buys all his cars at auctions? I would suggest if it is just mismatched, contact some people who have boughten in the past and make sure they last.

For having 45k miles on it, the seats seem to have extreme wear on them. My accord has 120k and my dark grey leather is in MUCH better shape. I say run a carfax for sure. If it comes back with anything as much as accident, theft recovery or anything, walk from this car immediately.

The problem with passing on this car like everyone else says is that most other 99cobras go for around 13k with 50-60k on them, if they say this is an $11k car, then it still is a steal even with clutch, scrape, others.

If the dealer is willing to do all those for maybe like 200-300 extra, then do it. It would be a lot nicer car with that scratch repaired and the clutch replaced. Don't rule this out, just because some others said it maybe bad. It could actually be a diamond in the rough if you strip the mods on your car and trade even up.
 
Well there seems to be one unanswered question...and I think I can answer it.
Thats your cold start problem.

The problem is being caused by the LT headers, its taking longer to warm up the sensors...and the sensors are down stream further (Supposedly the extra wire causes the signal to take a little longer to get to the EEC), so thats probably the problem.

My car does NOT like cold weather and cold starts...I mean it starts just fine and stays running perfectly. But if you give it gas, it de activates the cold start feature and if you try and take off (getting under 1K RPMs) the rpms start jumping around like crazy and the car bucks and jerks...if I keep it over 1K for about the first 30-45seconds, then there are no problems.

(NOTE) My cams contribute to this ALOT...but it got noticably worse after the LT were installed.
 
I will be another guy against that car, sorry.

It is an alright car, but I am sure that you can get much better. First off, the engine may be clean, but that doesn't take much to happen. Second, it may be a Cobra with full exhaust, but with 260hp you're not far behind it. Third, it's THREE years older. Fourth, it has a few issues that will cost you time and mostly money to fix.

Anyways, don't fall in love with that car too much. I'm sure you have a nice car that sounds real sweet, that plenty of guys would like to have. Also, if you're going to finish school soon and start at a dealership, then save some cash and try to get a hookup through the dealer.

All in all, you're still a young guy, no need to rush. :nice:
 
hdawg06 said:
For having 45k miles on it, the seats seem to have extreme wear on them. My accord has 120k and my dark grey leather is in MUCH better shape. I say run a carfax for sure. If it comes back with anything as much as accident, theft recovery or anything, walk from this car immediately.


A lot of the leather seats in Mustangs wear easily. I got my car at 14,000 miles and it had a lot of wear.
 
I definately agree 100% with EVERYONEs opinions on here. I agree with teh guys that are cautioning against it and warning me about potential problems, but i also see the other side...the guys that think this car has potential and wont let a few minor details get in the way of a potentially great car.

Also, the reason this car is THREE years older than my car is the only reason why i can really straight trade for it. Because if i had an 01 or 00 GT i couldn't pull this deal off straight. So keep that in mind...tahts why im looking for a 99.
 
The engine is clean because it was detailed and prepped. I can guarantee you by the looks of the car, it was not detailed when the dealer brought it in.

Something is fishy when a dealer is willing to bring in a trade for a used car for another used car even-up or close to it. To me it sounds like he wants to dump it bad and fast.

I would stay away from that car. Too many nagging little things wrong with it, and by the way the body was treated, tells me something about the previous owners. Just as your car is losing value, so are the 99 Cobras. Don't be in a rush, there will always be another one out there.
 
One thing you may want to think of is the next clutch change will be expensive, to my recollection with the BBK long tubes you have to at the very least losen them to get the tranny out.

If it needs a clutch now you may have a fairly good size bill comming up very soon unless you want to pull the headers and then replace the clutch yourself.
 
I do all work to my cars myself. I go to an automotive technical school as well as work as a mechanic on the weekends and have access to lifts, parts, tools, you name it.

But yes...im not looking foward to getting a new car, and doing a $400 clutch job my 1st weekend out witht the thing. I'm discussing thigns with the dealer atm
 
UDTBadkarma said:
I do all work to my cars myself. I go to an automotive technical school as well as work as a mechanic on the weekends and have access to lifts, parts, tools, you name it.

But yes...im not looking foward to getting a new car, and doing a $400 clutch job my 1st weekend out witht the thing. I'm discussing thigns with the dealer atm
let us know how it pans out.
 
Definately will.

OFF TOPIC, BUT:
I wasn't really paying attention, but on the cobra motor, are the spark plugs real hard to get to? Can they all be taken out manually from up top (i'd imagine not). Because if i wanted to run a compression test i wanted to know if i can do one real quick in the dealer lot, without having to jack the engine up, etc...
 
UDTBadkarma said:
Definately will.

OFF TOPIC, BUT:
I wasn't really paying attention, but on the cobra motor, are the spark plugs real hard to get to? Can they all be taken out manually from up top (i'd imagine not). Because if i wanted to run a compression test i wanted to know if i can do one real quick in the dealer lot, without having to jack the engine up, etc...
the Cobra plugs are super easy to get to. Even easier then the 2v. The are right under the covers on the cam covers.
 
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