Hesitating/Surging and Popping under Load

And again...

StangGT1995 said:

Check out the Surging Idle Checklist that's found in the Useful Technical Thread Index that's stickied at the top of this forum.

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coil

you put down you have a egr delete, did you also buy a egr simulator? if not go on ebay and order one, this will make your car do exactly as you are describing.

i had a 92 that i had my egr unhooked from and ran like crap untill i put the simulater in, so i make it a rule of thumb to buy one every time i get rid of emission stuff. but if you say it was running good that probly isnt the case. how bout your ignition switch? have you ever changed that? ford had a recall on them and in my tech book it can cause some of the problems you are describing, or possibly the connectors for your wiring harness, my ford tech book says there is a problem with corrosion on the harness, and may cause the car to miss and run like garbage.

Follow the link to get an explanation on how to read the flashing lights...

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.



89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.



Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

same

I have the exact same issue that you are describing.

If I stab the gas at anything under like 3000 rpms the car bucks misses and sumbles for about a second, backfires through the intake and then takes off like normal.

The car misses at idle too and the whole engine shakes. Pretty much any time it's at low rpms the car is a POS.

Car does not use any coolant, does not smoke, doesn't smell like burning oil or anything and feels very strong on the highway.

No codes except 21 engine coolant temperature (ECT) out of self-test range because the car takes forever to warm up.

I have replaced TFI, ECT, fuel injectors, coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, TPS (whole new TB), intake gaskets, fuel pressure regulator and a few vacuum lines.

TPS voltage set, checked timing, tried 10 and 12 with spout out.

Still does it.

I'm wondering if the dizzy itself is bad or something cause it seems like timing.

The vacuum sweeps between 16-19" at idle as the car misses and has kind of a hunting idle.

Lunch Box said:

i pulled the codes last week

this is with the car warmed up

21 engine coolant temperature (ECT) out of self-test range

94 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit failure

44 air injection control system failure

31 egr positioner sensor below minimum voltage

77 brief wide open throttle not sensed during test

67 neutral/drive switch circuit open


also did a cyl balance test and i got a 9

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If you engine was completely warm, you should not have code 21.

How long did you let the car run? How long after shutting it off did you test it?