hi torque mini starter help?

[dw89lx]

I've been getting severe heat soak problems with my 1989 LX. It has BBK long tube headers which are wrapped but that doesn't seem to help. I have the stock starter in there now and it is pretty old so I figured I would swap it out for a mini starter from a 1992 or 1993. Will the stock mini starter fit OK? Will I need to change any wiring or anything?

 

[Matts89LX5.0]

go with a power master hi torque starter...i had the same problem and this solved the weak cranks and sometime not starting unless the car sat for awhile

 

[40th 2004Stang]

I just put in one from a 93 from the parts store. Works like a champ. The 93 starters are smaller, and have the gear reduction.

 

[dw89lx]

Will I need to change the wiring at all. I think I read somewhere that you have to move the cable from the starter solenoid over to the side where you get constant power from the battery and then run a 10 gauge wire from the other side of the solenoid to the second post on the starter. Is this right?

 

[stang&2Birds]

Opps, wrong thread. Never mind.

 

[Matts89LX5.0]

Will I need to change the wiring at all. I think I read somewhere that you have to move the cable from the starter solenoid over to the side where you get constant power from the battery and then run a 10 gauge wire from the other side of the solenoid to the second post on the starter. Is this right?

if u go with the hi torque mini starter (aftermarket) u just need to run a small jumper wire from one post to the other on the starter...the main wire that goes from the one post to the solonoid is still the same. hope this helps

 

[Juiced88Coupe]

Installation of a High Torque Starter
By CobraGT87 [ December 30 2002 ]



Unplug the negative battery terminal THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

Disconnect your starter from your bellhousing.

With the starter out, you will need to make a slight modification to your existing starter wire. You will need to use a drill and make your starter cable bolt hole large enough to fit onto the new high torque starter solenoid (The larger terminal, not the blade terminal). Once this is done, bolt the wire to the large terminal on the new starter solenoid and bolt the starter to the bellhousing.

Now you will need to get yourself about 5 feet of 14-18 gauge wire. You will need to add a blade female socket on the end of one of the wires (It will slide onto the high torque starters solenoid blade terminal). (Don't worry, since the starter is small enough, you can get to the blade terminal with the starter in the car!! You can also finally see the top starter bolt too!!!)

Connect the blade socket onto the starter solenoid blade terminal. Now with the other end of the wire, run it along the starters battery cable, using zip ties to secure it in place along the path back up to the starter solenoid on the drivers fender. The wire should run to the front of the motor, along the front of the motor, and up to the drivers fender.

Now at the solenoid on the drivers fender, remove the STARTER SIDE bolt and remove the starter cable.

Now with the new wire you ran from the starter solenoid connect a eyeloop connector big enough to fit on STARTER SIDE terminal of the fender solenoid. Now cut your new solenoid wire for length and fit, install eyeloop connector to wire, and bolt connector to STARTER SIDE terminal on fender solenoid. DO NOT reconnect the main starter cable to this terminal.

Now remove the BATTERY TERMINAL nut on the fender solenoid. Attach your starter cable to this terminal and tighten nut.

With everything connected, plug in your battery. (IF you see sparks and fireworks, unplug battery and check for the power wires ground against the frame, check for cut wires, etc).

Now make sure all your wires are secure (zip tied, not in the fans, belts, etc).

Start your car.

NOTE: From now on, if you EVER have to change a starter, YOU WILL HAVE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU UNBOLT THE STARTER.

The author believes the above information to be true and accurate, however it is strictly for educational purposes only. Neither 50tech.com nor the author can be held liable in any manner for consequential damages occurring from the use of said information

Does this help?

 

[dw89lx]

Thanks for all the Help. I replaced the old starter for a high torque mini starter today and it works great.

 

[stang&2Birds]

In the instructions of the FRPP mini-starter kit, it says DO NOT CONNECT the relay post to the battery post on the starter so that you can keep the battery wire to the starter on the switched side of the relay. It MAY cause the starter to keep engaged after you release the key. That's because the starter generates voltage when it's turning, that voltage MAY be enough to keep the relay engaged for some time. If that happens, the starter life will be GREATLY decreased and starter/flywheel damage MAY occur.


Okay, with that said, on the FRPP mini-starter on my t-bird, I have the 2 terminals on the starter jumper-ed together and the battery cable is still on the *switched* side of the fender starter relay. After 10+ years and 100K miles, NO problem! But, results _will_ differ because of many factors!

In my stang, to be safe, I didn't hook up the starter the same way that I did in the t-bird. It's a PITA to replace a starter in a stang!


If someone wants, I can scan the FRPP mini-starter kit install instructions.