HiPo 289 Hot start problem

wlewis · May 22, 2009

My 289 HiPo with a high rise manifold, holley carb and electric choke, starts fine when cold after pumping pedal one or two times. Hot starting is another story. Sometimes, it will start fine when hot, but most of the time, it just turns over as if it's not getting fuel. At times, I've pumped pedal enough times when I can smell gas. Other times, numerous pumping of the pedal, will cause it to start. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Walter

golf4283 · May 22, 2009

how old is the fuel pump?
how old is the carb.?

maybe check the timing?

I would start though by looking at the pump as well as the carb if you don't think it's getting enough fuel.

wlewis · May 22, 2009

Timing is fine. I've only had car, a '65, about 6 months. Don't have any idea as to how old any of the parts are. Pump is original style, but it I don't think it has all the original numbers and markings, so I suspect it is not original.

rebel65 · May 22, 2009

when it's hot i doubt you need to pump the gas pedal, does it sound like it is almost starting at all? or just cranking over?

wlewis · May 22, 2009

When hot, it just turns over. Only because I was fearful of running the battery down, did I start pumping the pedal. In fact, one of the times I got it to start while hot, I had to hold the pedal all the way down.

2+2GT · May 22, 2009

wlewis said:
My 289 HiPo with a high rise manifold, holley carb and electric choke, starts fine when cold after pumping pedal one or two times. Hot starting is another story. Sometimes, it will start fine when hot, but most of the time, it just turns over as if it's not getting fuel. At times, I've pumped pedal enough times when I can smell gas. Other times, numerous pumping of the pedal, will cause it to start. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Walter

Yeah- is the choke off? You don't need it on a hot start, and you talk about a lot of pedal pumping and gas smell.

Mine starts perfectly when hot, I just put the pedal part way down and turn the key. Stone-stock, with port-matching, but has the OE 4100 and manual choke, so I know it's off.

wlewis · May 22, 2009

Great question. I'm not sure whether it works or not. There is a single wire running from carb to, I believe, the solonoid. I'll sure disconnect it and try it. Thanks for the idea.

BarnStang · May 22, 2009

Disconneting it will not help, that will let the elec choke stay on all the time.
The solinoid is not the best place to run an elec choke, although a lot of people do. You are getting ign feed back into the "I" term of the solinoid via the ballast resistor wire so it's not a full switched 12v signal-the choke will open slower. That aside, you can run a jumper from the battery positive post to the elec choke. After 30 sec to 1 min you should see the choke plate start to open and continue to open. Make sure that the elec choke is working, and that the plate is not stuck, gummed up, or jambed.
If you want, you can use the green with red strip wire at the regulater-don't cut it-but you can splice there for a good switched 12 source. I'll have to check and see if the 65 has green w/red at the regulater. Pretty sure it does. Check the choke first and see what you have.

Capt Dan · May 22, 2009

wlewis said:
Great question. I'm not sure whether it works or not. There is a single wire running from carb to, I believe, the solonoid. I'll sure disconnect it and try it. Thanks for the idea.

The wire runs the heater on the electric choke. If you disconnect the wire the choke WILL NOT open.

What you need to do is take the air cleaner off when the car is cold. The choke plate should be closed or near to it.

Do this again after the car has warmed up (or let it warm up without the air cleaner on) and the choke plate should be open. If you watch this while idleing, you will need to bump the throttle to let the choke open. If it does not open fully, you need to adjust it.

Holding down the pedal (not pumping) on a hot start is not uncommon.

wlewis · May 22, 2009

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure it goes to solonoid will check.

wlewis · May 23, 2009

I just checked choke and it appears to be functioning properly. The choke plate was fully closed when cold, opened gradually while engine was warming up and remained fully open while hot starting. The wire runs to alternator, not solonoid as I previuosly stated. The car just started fine hot, without touching accelerator pedal. Next time, it may not. The frustrating part is it's very unpredictable and I never know when it is not going to start. It's hard to take the car anywhere becuase I don't want to get stranded. Back to the original question..... I hate replace fuel pump or especially the carb unless I know that's the problem. Intermittent problems are agrevating to say the least.

BarnStang · May 23, 2009

OK, lets look at what else you have. What ignition system does the car have? WHat distributer?

wlewis · May 25, 2009

Ignition and distributor both appear to be original.
Late yesterday, I tried starting it while hot. The starter turned over and there was no fire for a few seconds. When trying again, I made it a point NOT to hit the gas and it started. I'd like to think, perhaps, when I've been trying to hot start in the past, maybe I've been giving it gas, too much, since it didn't start first time. In light of all the previous comments, I'll try to make an effort NOT to give it gas and see if that makes a difference. Maybe I could be so lucky!

jcode68 · May 25, 2009

Are you still running points in the original distrbutor? If so, I would highly his could also be contributing to your hard start problem.

2+2GT · May 25, 2009

jcode68 said:
Are you still running points in the original distrbutor? If so, I would highly his could also be contributing to your hard start problem.

Why? I have the C5OE-F distributor, and my 289HP starts on the first or second revolution, whether it's hot or cold. Or the weather is.

2+2GT · May 25, 2009

wlewis said:
Ignition and distributor both appear to be original.
Late yesterday, I tried starting it while hot. The starter turned over and there was no fire for a few seconds. When trying again, I made it a point NOT to hit the gas and it started. I'd like to think, perhaps, when I've been trying to hot start in the past, maybe I've been giving it gas, too much, since it didn't start first time. In light of all the previous comments, I'll try to make an effort NOT to give it gas and see if that makes a difference. Maybe I could be so lucky!

Correct. Depress the pedal partway, pull the choke on, release the pedal. It should start right up.

wlewis · May 25, 2009

2+2GT,
I don't have the original manual choke.

2+2GT · May 25, 2009

wlewis said:
2+2GT,
I don't have the original manual choke.

Too bad. The OEM 1.125 4100 Autolite carb was far superior to the Holley.

Depressing the pedal as I described will set the auto choke.

S-Car-Go · May 25, 2009

Sounds like vapor lock. Fuel pump and metal lines get hot in the engine compartment and quit pumping fuel until things cool down. How hot is "hot"? Above 90* outside? You can usually insulate the lines and mitigate problem.

tx65coupe · May 26, 2009

If you have to hold the pedal to the floor to get it to start when hot, I would say that it is probably flooded.

HiPo 289 Hot start problem

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