Historic's suspension set up.

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HistoricMustang

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003
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Confederate States of America
#1
Had a request via PM to put up my set up so here goes:

Up Front -

Shelby Drop
1 1/8" Front Sway Bar
Front coils cut to drop front end 2 1/2"
Poly everywhere
Monte Carlo Bar
Ford original Export Brace
KYB shocks up front
Toe In 1/8" total
Camber 1 degree negative
Caster 2 1/2 to 3 degrees positive
Quick steering box and Shelby pitman arm
Granada spindle and brakes
Brake Master cylinder from '70 Mustang
Ford Upper and Lower control arms
7" x 15" rims with 245 x 45 Hoosiers

In the Rear -

5 leaf springs with reverse eye
1" lowering block (homemade) with wedge
Above two items drop rear about 2 1/2"
9" Detroit Locker Rear End narrowed 1/2" each side
No rear sway bar
Standard Ford Mustang shocks
Poly bushings
8 1/2" x 15" rims with 245 x 45 Hoosiers

Fender lips are rolled front and rear.

What did I leave out?

Pretty basic stuff and it has the track time and track finishes to back up the fact you do not need high dollars invested to make these things perform.

As soon as I can get some spare time I will get all this up at "Budget Performance" with more detail.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
#2
Very cool!

Its surprising to see that other than a couple small things that lower your car a bit more than mine, we have a very similar setup. :nice:

<- feeling a little "racier" than I did before I read this. :p
 
#3
Yes "Blake", one of the reasons I stayed away from rims larger than 15" is I wanted to keep the overall wheel/tire diameter below around 24 1/2" which keeps the center of gravity low and also keeps the "vintage" look.

The rear lowering kit is made of "plastic material" believe it or not and I made the set up at home. Will pull the details together and before anyone says "plastic" is not safe back there, the thing has been around Daytona and Lowes at speed and my "butt" is still intact so it works.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
#5
HistoricMustang said:
The rear lowering kit is made of "plastic material" believe it or not and I made the set up at home. Will pull the details together and before anyone says "plastic" is not safe back there, the thing has been around Daytona and Lowes at speed and my "butt" is still intact so it works.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
Click to expand...

Probably would not be too safe though for the McDonalds drive thru circuit with all the pot holes etc.
:notnice:
 
#8
foghorn67 said:
They can make fighter planes out of composites you know. e.g., plastics.
stop barking at things before you know what it is.
Click to expand...

Yeah, where can I pick up some of those composites... probably would cost more than a $25 set of lowering blocks, we were talking budget right?
:rlaugh: I'm sure historic has F-16 lowering blocks :shrug: :shrug: I love stangnet tech :hail2:
 
#10
On the rear end "plastic" lowering blocks. Go to the local Lowes or Home Depot and ask for the hard wood flooring department. When there ask the guy or girl for a "tapping block". The is the "poly" block that people use when installing hard wood floors. It is used to tap one piece of the wood into the next piece of wood. They are 1" thick.

It is the perfect width for the rear springs. Cut length so that it extends beyond the "U" bolts. I think it is maybe 4 or 5 inches. Drill a hole in the center and install a bolt with contact cement so the bolt will be able to fit into the "perch" on the rear end.

You got maybe $20 in the whole thing after buying the longer "U" bolts.

You are down an additional 1". Add a wedge plate (get them from Speedway or other places) to keep the rear pinion at a good angle and you are set.

Happy sailing and forget all the posters that want to keep us from our appointed journey.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
#12
GT2K said:
http://www.americaniron-east.com/points.shtml

What is the competition doing differently? Is it skill only? You're consistently 10 seconds or more off the lead car.
Click to expand...

HistoricMustang said:
GT2K. The lead car is not an early model. It is a 351 late model rocket ship.
Click to expand...


I don't want to be a jerk, but your response to him only proves that technology has improved a tremendous amount over the 35+ years since our Mustangs were mass produced.

If someone can produce the same power as that "351 late model rocket ship", and then update the suspension technology using TCP, Global West, or others, then you would be able to compete.

87
 
#13
Ask about this guy over on cornercarvers.com. Or any other board. Unfortunately he's taking some of the younger guys here for a ride. Track tech and street tech are two entirely different things. A LOT HAS CHANGED IN 40 YEARS ... Granada technology is how old at this point?

I'll offer you advice from my experience actually USING many of these products, whether they are in a magazine or not.

Bullies are the ones that claim to "own the playground" and dismiss others when they get called out. They usually also don't wanna hear anyone elses thoughts or opinions because "this is how it's done". You guys have some nice ground rules here, too bad someone thinks they have control of 'em.... hahaha.

I'm doing everyone a favor by pushing this clown a little bit. If you wanna know my contribution you can start with the VMF group buy for Flaming River stuff. Yeah, I'm not someone you want around here ;). The guys that frequent VMF as well will know me pretty well... not the one that's been embarassed of a couple forums.

Alot of what this guy preaches is NOT SAFE and to let him continue to spew this stuff has me and many other knowledgeable people rather worried about the potential outcome.

$10 difference on a lowering kit is not worth risking yourself and anyone else in your path over. Let's give this some serious thought.
 
#14
Come on guys...
No need to insult people just because you don't agree with them
:nono:

Historic has a pretty good setup on his car.
Heck, its pretty close to Kingsford, with a few exceptions of course.
 
#15
2bav8 said:
Come on guys...
No need to insult people just because you don't agree with them
:nono:

Historic has a pretty good setup on his car.
Heck, its pretty close to Kingsford, with a few exceptions of course.
Click to expand...

It's not an insult 2bav, it's just a fact. Why does the late model whip him by 10 seconds? It's the reason WHY I built my suspension the way I did. Classic good looks, with the technology to keep up with the "Late Models"

87
 
#16
dolfan87 said:
I don't want to be a jerk, but your response to him only proves that technology has improved a tremendous amount over the 35+ years since our Mustangs were mass produced.

If someone can produce the same power as that "351 late model rocket ship", and then update the suspension technology using TCP, Global West, or others, then you would be able to compete.

87
Click to expand...

Thanks, this is EXACTLY what I wanted him to do, expose himself. I tell ya, if you are really about the budget... bet I could build that Fox rocket ship for less than the early fastback.
:owned:

Just be careful guys on whose line you are buying. I don't want to over-generalize but the stangnet forum seems to be "younger" in age and we all (online classic mustang community) don't want anyone taking unnecessary risks... there's a right way, a cheap way, and a flashy way. You gotta balance all three sometimes to reach a safe way.

There were no seatbelts in '65 right?
 
#17
GT2K said:
Thanks, this is EXACTLY what I wanted him to do, expose himself. I tell ya, if you are really about the budget... bet I could build that Fox rocket ship for less than the early fastback.
:owned:

Just be careful guys on whose line you are buying. I don't want to over-generalize but the stangnet forum seems to be "younger" in age and we all (online classic mustang community) don't want anyone taking unnecessary risks... there's a right way, a cheap way, and a flashy way. You gotta balance all three sometimes to reach a safe way.

There were no seatbelts in '65 right?
Click to expand...

There is nothing wrong with building your car on a budget, and keeping things simple. I think it would be more fun to build a car this way.

However, if you truly want to be able to compete, you have to update, and get with the technology of this decade.

I have nothing against a guy doing his car on the inexpensive side, but to say you don't NEED the updated stuff to compete, well...I think we all know the truth there.

87
 
#19
I'm not trying to be a "hater", but I would not use a plastic piece from Lowes as a lowering block in MY car. Nor would I feel comfortable recommending one to anyone else. I believe there has even been discussion over the problems running aluminum lowering blocks-- fatigue cracking. I'll use steel blocks if I need them. My $0.02.
 
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