Historic's suspension set up.

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That Historic:s assembly looks good to me. It is nice to see what people really have ni their cars, and not only salesmen talking.

And as I understood, he didn´t advertise this setup of his to bge copied to street?? This is not a street setup. i don´t know what kind of historic rules you have, but I don´t think those rack and pinion sets are allowed in historic classes. at least not in here.

I have gotten lots of Correct and Accurate information from this board, keep up the good forum! :nice:
 
I don't care for the plastic lowering blocks myself, BUT, if they were deemed so unsafe, wouldn't tech tell him to get rid of them? And how long has he been using them? In making adjustments to his car, do you think he checks them? If they were degrading, would he replace them? How many ft/lbs per sq/in do you think a hammer hitting this plastic does? Now how many ft/lbs per sq/in is the Mustang putting over the whole surface of that block thats in compression?

Before you jump on my case, I'd almost guarentee that with some aftermarket pieces and some tuning, Historic would be in the top of the pack. But I also am sort of like him in a way, I've got a .030" over 289 that went 11.08 @ 119 in a 3000# 4-speed car with 5.67 gears. The crank is a cast 289 crank, the rods are Howards Aluminum, the pistons are 12.7:1 TRW (read HEAVY), the cam is a Schneider Roller, the heads are ported '69 351Ws, and the intake was a Offy 360 T-ram with dual stock 660 center squirters. No nitrous, no blower, no turbos, just naturally aspirated. How many 3000# or greater cars can you name that are on the brink of 10's N/A with less than 300 cubic inches (that aren't professional class racers)? This motor was built in the late 80's, the rods and the cam are the only technology thats very advanced in the whole motor.

Point is, I bet if you compared his times to similarly equipped cars from back in the day, he'd be running faster than the top times. Maybe its all tire technology, maybe not. He's just trying to do as much with little, which is really quite impressive.
 
Thanks.

Although on the surface it looks like people are disagreeing here, for the most part we are actually agreeing. I don't claim to know "the way" to do anything, I can only offer what I have experienced and my opinion on things that don't look too good or stuff I have read here, there, and somewhere else.

There's another classic mustang in AIX that HM finds himself behind a lot. It's a Boss 302 racer from day one that has not been trapped with old tech. It's running on 18" wheels with a coilover suspension... it's a bigger and heavier car too.

HM's approach would actually be better in the historic classes, heck he would probably clean up there.
 
I can attest the Historic set-up works really nice for most guys on a budget. You can get the car handling very well. I ran a car on the street for about 15 years with a similar set-up and it was a blast playing around with new Vets. I can't really say that I appreciate the flack he's taking on his post since he is really doing this to help some budget minded people out.

However, the TCP car ran about third through several American Iron Series races last year. Then they out ran the #1 car, Griggs' fox body after they installed their rear coilover. They made Griggs go put a better engine in their car that put TCP just behind them again. Then TCP smoked their motor trying to keep up and ended their season here in Vegas. Technology has definately made a difference!
 
mdjay, are the gt40 wheels made there in Vegas? I have the Edelbrock 454 wheels now, but I just can't fit enough tire under the rear. I noticed you guys sell the 40's with a 9" option.

Lemme know how long it would take to get a set for my Mach.

Sorry for the hi-jack, back to your regular programming.

87
 
dolfan87 said:
mdjay, are the gt40 wheels made there in Vegas? I have the Edelbrock 454 wheels now, but I just can't fit enough tire under the rear. I noticed you guys sell the 40's with a 9" option.

Lemme know how long it would take to get a set for my Mach.

Sorry for the hi-jack, back to your regular programming.

87

Just PM me...

Jay
 
Edbert said:
I don't want to over generalize or start any inter-forum rivalry but many of the folks over at VMF seem to have a chip on their shoulder. If I didn't know better I'd say they were from a BMW forum or something. There are many glaring exceptions where VMFers have come to SNF and been cordial and contributed (Dodgestang comes to mind at the top), and you don't sense the haughtiness of the VMFer when you are on their forum either.

Not sure what VMF your talking about. What is going on on VMF is the sharing of some "real budget tech". Take this "how to" on making $16 roller spring perches www.trinitysmustangs.com/roller_spring_perch.htm . Feel free to ask Dodgestang how well they work on a street car, then imagine what it does on a track car. At VMF you'll also find the sharing of how to make homemade and inexpensive boxed LCA's with sperical ball pivots. There are also homemade camber curve correcting UCA's, home-made rod-end strut rods, a really nice Watts Link setups and homemeade under-ridders. The list goes on. You don't have to sacrifice good suspension tuning just cause your on a budget (and you don't have to knock it either).

It's rare on VMF to see an adtitude of my way or the hiway, but that's what seems to be going on here.
 
Already done the racing thing on the "Historic" side. Wins at Daytona, Road Atlanta, Sebring and Moroso and Roebling Road and numerous seconds and thirds at those tracks. Even had a third up at Watkins Glen.

If you are using or going to use aluminum lowering blocks, check often for cracks. The rear spings have an "arch" in them and they will "stress".

I have actually seen guys use wood in their race cars as a lowering block. Do as you wish.

The "plastic" I use is made by Armstrong and it has been under the car for two seasons now with no problems. It curves to conform to the above mentioned "arch".

For our new viewers and for the individuals that come into and out of the thread let me repeat this again. It makes no difference to me what you use in your ride. I am simply trying to tell folks how to get better performance out of their early model without buying the expensive after market stuff. If you got the cash then spend it and chances are your ride will in fact out perform a similar model with my set up.

I am not trying to sell anything and the site is commercial free and no pop-ups.

And, you have never seen me "quote" another poster. That is an art in itself!

Discussion is good.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
1320stang said:
I don't care for the plastic lowering blocks myself, BUT, if they were deemed so unsafe, wouldn't tech tell him to get rid of them? And how long has he been using them? In making adjustments to his car, do you think he checks them? If they were degrading, would he replace them? How many ft/lbs per sq/in do you think a hammer hitting this plastic does? Now how many ft/lbs per sq/in is the Mustang putting over the whole surface of that block thats in compression?

Before you jump on my case, I'd almost guarentee that with some aftermarket pieces and some tuning, Historic would be in the top of the pack. But I also am sort of like him in a way, I've got a .030" over 289 that went 11.08 @ 119 in a 3000# 4-speed car with 5.67 gears. The crank is a cast 289 crank, the rods are Howards Aluminum, the pistons are 12.7:1 TRW (read HEAVY), the cam is a Schneider Roller, the heads are ported '69 351Ws, and the intake was a Offy 360 T-ram with dual stock 660 center squirters. No nitrous, no blower, no turbos, just naturally aspirated. How many 3000# or greater cars can you name that are on the brink of 10's N/A with less than 300 cubic inches (that aren't professional class racers)? This motor was built in the late 80's, the rods and the cam are the only technology thats very advanced in the whole motor.

Point is, I bet if you compared his times to similarly equipped cars from back in the day, he'd be running faster than the top times. Maybe its all tire technology, maybe not. He's just trying to do as much with little, which is really quite impressive.

10 years and still running the same aluminum rods?

Aluminum rods stretch out pretty quick, then you have piston to head contact.

This is what I have heard.
 
Fostang said:
10 years and still running the same aluminum rods?

Aluminum rods stretch out pretty quick, then you have piston to head contact.

This is what I have heard.

We ran the car pretty hard in '95 and '96, made around 150 passes. It sat until a couple years ago when we put it into my buddy's '68. It's had about 50 passes since then. In the first car, we'd kick it out of gear after the finish line, this is easier on the rods as they don't try and stretch as much. Once in the other car with the C4, he also kicks into neutral, but I think it's a little harder on the rods. The car only made WFC last year and we blew the tranny up on Saturday in time trials. Rebuilt it for Sunday but nothing. Bought a new PA transbrake tranny for cheap at the WFC. A pro one that you send back every year to be freshend up for free, only pay shipping one way. This will probably be the last year on those rods, we're starting to loose a little oil pressure. The Canfields may sell and it looks like we're leaning towards Glidden heads to go back on with the Funnel Web he just got. He clayed the Canfields, which have smaller chambers than the '69 Windsors and had adaquate clearance. If he changes out the heads we may pull the pistons off the rods and have the rods checked for round. Maybe have them R&R'd and throw them back in. The plan is to get a B/A shortblock one of these days, hence the Gliddens and Funnel Web. It's running 11.80's now on Dunlop GT Qualifiers (255/70/15) now in a little True Radial class we're running. It's nowhere near the 10.70's the other guys are running with they're 400" motors, but for 3/4 of the cubes, were holding our own. He can hammer down off the line with little or no spin, they have to feather it.
 
Dinosawnj said:
Not sure what VMF your talking about.

-snippage-

It's rare on VMF to see an adtitude of my way or the hiway, but that's what seems to be going on here.

EXACTLY. I said they have a good community, with many crossovers (myslef included), who are good contributors. Ever so often new folks come in here and start throwing insults, and we don't appreciate it. I just want folks to show respect and be civil. Thats all I was saying
 
OK, someone indicated that I have been misleading the youth of America and that I have been "exposed". As soon as I can get it up at "Budget Performance" I will put up some of the finishes for the ole early model.

Included in the info will be the Daytona victory over the "Edelbrock" GT-350's that they hauled all the way from California. The lady even out ran Vic Edelbrock himself.

When I say Edelbrock it should mean high performance and high dollar.

I am really a mild manner kind of guy, but I love it when the "special interest" people have to eat crow. No apology will be necessary as discussion is good.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 
GT2K :stick: Historic

Historic :stick: GT2k

GT2K :stick: Historic

Historic :stick: GT2k

Can we stop this thread before we get to...

GT2k :flame: Historic

Historic :uzi: GT2k

I agree with both of you, but I want to :chair: each of you,
now :cheers: :damnit:

(Its been a while since we had a good Smiles laden post :owned: )

:jester:

Remember what Rodney King said... (never really did happen thou, did it?)

be cool :banana: :spot:
 
:fuss: Thanks man. I was pretty sure we were all settled down here and some actual attitude adjustment had taken place ... then I saw the rehash and the old :bang: :bang: :bang: .

So be it :spot:
 
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