Holley Carb Problem -- Hope Someone Can Help...

deco_droid

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Mar 10, 2008

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Texas

Mar 11, 2008

#1

• Mar 11, 2008

• #1

I have a 289 running two 4 bbl holleys - 390 cfm each. The engine has maybe 30k miles on it, and have never had a problem up until recently. Anyway, the rear carb is dripping a pretty steady amount of fuel upon startup, and it is running pretty rough.

I pulled the air cleaner off to see where the drip was coming from, and the whole top of the carb was wet with fuel, making it hard to tell what was leaking. I'm thinking some seal must have a hairline crack or something because I drove the car around a few weeks back, and after it warmed up, it ran smooth and the drip seemed to stop.

I called a local shop that deals with old Fords exclusively and he indicated the carbs were overdue for a rebuild, and estimated $400 or so, plus a tune up charge. Is there anything simpler that might remedy this problem? Does a rebuild sound reasonable for an engine with 30k miles on it over maybe 6 or 7 years? Would it be worth it to just get new or rebuilt carbs instead of paying someone to rebuild these? If so, any suggestions on other carb brands or sizes?

Thanks for any help or suggestions on this...

 

1

10secgoal

Active Member

Dec 1, 2003

2,801

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San Diego

Mar 11, 2008

#2

• Mar 11, 2008

• #2

A rebuild might be in order because of how long it sat. But it sound like the needle and seats might have stuck on you there for a little while. Probably gummed up.
400 bucks is actually a good price for two rebuilds, and to remove and re-install them. If you do something else, don't let them convince you they aren't worth anything. Or let them "toss 'em out." 390's aren't the easiest carbs to find anymore.

 

I

iapexl8r

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Apr 1, 2005

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Mar 11, 2008

#3

• Mar 11, 2008

• #3

try tapping on the adjuster for the float level with the HANDLE end of a screwdriver some times this sets the needle free. But if they do need a re build this wont fix it. chris

 

Fast63

New Member

Sep 20, 2007

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Mar 12, 2008

#4

• Mar 12, 2008

• #4

Sounds like the needle and seat assembly might just need to be tightened up, so try that first.

 

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palerider94

Member

Feb 21, 2006

573

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Mar 12, 2008

#5

• Mar 12, 2008

• #5

Sounds like a stuck float. I'd pull them off and take bowl off and see if gummed up. You'd be surprised how easy it is to do yourself if so inclined. Lot of information on the net on doing.

 

deco_droid

New Member

Mar 10, 2008

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Texas

Mar 12, 2008

#6

• Mar 12, 2008

• #6

thanks for the info everyone -- i tried tapping the float adjuster and that didn't seem to help. i started it up again and this time i could see the fuel is definitely coming out the top vent tube thing on the primaries side.

i guess i'll try to see if the floats are stuck, and if that isn't it, i'll go with replacing the needle seat assembly?

i've never done this before though -- do i just pull off the float cover thing and spray the float with carb cleaner? how gentle do you need to be with it -- don't want to break it if it's fragile. any thing i need to be aware of when doing this? i'm no expert, but i'm not afraid to try to fix this on my own. thanks again.

 

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palerider94

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Feb 21, 2006

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Mar 13, 2008

#7

• Mar 13, 2008

• #7

No too fragile. Just do it on a clean workshop bench and you'll be fine. I'm usually more concerned about losing pieces and less concerned about it being fragile when messing with them.

 

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D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Mar 14, 2008

#8

• Mar 14, 2008

• #8

$400 to rebuild two Holley's ? All you need is 4 needle/seats from your local parts house, if they truly are sticky. Four of these will cost you maybe $20. Plus another 10-15 bucks for new bowl gaskets. Other causes for this is bad/dirty fuel, or too much fuel pressure. You running a regulator,and/or electric fuel pump ?

 

70dvr

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Jul 25, 2006

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Brandon, Florida

Mar 16, 2008

#9

• Mar 16, 2008

• #9

The needle and seat themselves almost never wear out. It is usually just the O-ring.

 

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D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Mar 16, 2008

#10

• Mar 16, 2008

• #10

70dvr said:

The needle and seat themselves almost never wear out. It is usually just the O-ring.

Click to expand...

They also get gummed up from varnish. That's usually the reason they stick.

 

deco_droid

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Mar 10, 2008

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Texas

Mar 17, 2008

#11

• Mar 17, 2008

• #11

thanks for the additional replies everyone. i changed my fuel filter, and got new needles the other day, so i'm going to try changing out the needle/seat this week. hopefully, that's all it is, because i just don't have the spare time to figure out how to do a whole rebuild on my own.

i have to admit that stupid me did let my fuel filter go too long before changing it out. it's one of those inline filters with the bronze element. i read somewhere those are good for 12k miles -- is that about right? how often do you change yours?

about the varnish issue, i was driving the car once or twice a week, so is that still not enough to keep varnish from forming in the carb? i know some people with classic cars that don't drive them as much as i do mine. what is the trick for keeping your carb clean all the time?

-- oh, and i don't have a fuel regulator or electric fuel pump installed. is there a big advantage with those? like i said, i've had this car for 7 or 8 years, and never had a problem till recently.

 

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D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Mar 17, 2008

#12

• Mar 17, 2008

• #12

Keep the varnish off ? That's easy. Use nothing but quality name brand fuel. Like Chevron, Texaco, Shell. These all have Techron, the additive that keeps your stuff clean. Or buy cheap gas and add the bottled Tecron to it.

 

deco_droid

New Member

Mar 10, 2008

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Texas

Mar 27, 2008

#13

• Mar 27, 2008

• #13

thanks again -- i replaced the needle seat part and lo and behold, my car runs like a dream again -- no rough idle, no leaking fuel. thanks guys, for helping me save $400.

i had been running non-techron gas, so i will be more dilligent with that in the future. i have learned my lesson.