Holley Carb problem!!!

A67StangMaster · Jan 14, 2007

Hey guys..
I have been haveing problems haveing my car Idle.. The rpms are why too high even when the car is at running temp..i dont have a rpm tach but it seems to be running at about 2k to 3k rpms
I dont know to adjust it ..
I bought a holley car book but yet nothing has helped me

Here's what the carb looks like

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...&N=700+4294919007+4294908395+115&autoview=sku

I played around with the choke I got it lower, but still when i shut the car off it dose not turn back on, so I set it back to where it was..

Ohh btw my battery is sending about 17 volts to the carb would that be a problem? I bought the wrong battery (1000 cranking amps LOL..) Hey it starts faster..

Az Pete · Jan 14, 2007

When warmed up to operating temp, is the choke off? If not, there is a problem in the choke electrics. If the choke is off, then check the fast idle screw on the choke linkage side of the carb. Similar to the regular idle screw but on the opposite side. Should not be touching the cam when running at operating temps. Next would be the idle screw. This adjusts the main idle once the mixture screws are set. The mixture screws should be about 1.25 turns from the stop. Screw them in gently until they stop, then back out 1.25 turns. This gives a good starting point. Then adjust the idle screw.

Another item to check would be vacuum leaks. They will cause a fast idle. Spray carb cleaner around the intake and carb base and listen for the idle to change. Fix leak.

Timing can also cause fast idle. Be sure it is set properly by the book for your engine.

Hope this gets you under way.

Choke only needs about 6 volts min. Higher volts cause it to open quicker or not stay on long enough to let the engine warm up.

A67StangMaster · Jan 15, 2007

OK I did everything but i could not find the fast idel screw but I did get it to run better then before.. Here how much it went down, I think it was ideling at 2500 rpms and it went down to about 2300 rpms.. if only i could find that fast idle screw I looked in the book but didnt see anything about it. I am sure I probley missed it..

But thanks for the help...

zookeeper · Jan 15, 2007

Look for where your linkage attaches to the carb. There's a hex-headed screw with a screwdriver slot in it. Turn this screw to the left to lower the idle. You may also have a problem with the throttle linkage hanging up, so maybe try disconnecting it altogether to and working the throttle by hand. BTW, you do have a return spring on the carb, right?

A67StangMaster · Jan 15, 2007

zookeeper said:
Look for where your linkage attaches to the carb. There's a hex-headed screw with a screwdriver slot in it. Turn this screw to the left to lower the idle. You may also have a problem with the throttle linkage hanging up, so maybe try disconnecting it altogether to and working the throttle by hand. BTW, you do have a return spring on the carb, right?

Yes I have a return spring, but I still cant find that fast Idel screw? the throttle linkage is not connected at the momment.

D.Hearne · Jan 15, 2007

What is the initial timing set at? It may be advanced too much to allow the carb to be set lower.

A67StangMaster · Jan 15, 2007

D.Hearne said:
What is the initial timing set at? It may be advanced too much to allow the carb to be set lower.

I really dont know I had a shop put it together for me, I just got to start it up...
HOw could I figer out the initial timing? I have a timeing ligh but dont know how to use it..

D.Hearne · Jan 15, 2007

The timing light will have three leads. Two are together, usually a black and red wire with a clamp on each. The red goes to the battery + terminal, the black to ground. The other clamps over the #1 plug wire, there's an arrow to orient the clamp in the proper direction. When all is connected, start the engine and aim the light at the timing pointer on the timing cover and pull the trigger. If the harmonic balancer is clean and free of paint where the timing marks are, the light will illuminate the pointer at the mark where the initial timing is set. It's also necessary to disconnect the distributor vacuum line (plug this vacuum leak) while checking the timing. Initial timing should be set anywhere between 10-14 degrees BTDC for best operation. The factory 6* BTDC setting is not enough timing usually. Once the initial timing is set, then start tuning the carb, first work on the idle speed (screw on the linkage side of the carb) then the idle mixture. Someone else will have to guide you on choke and fast idle settings, I completely remove all that stuff on my carbs. Don't have a need for that crap.

A67StangMaster · Jan 15, 2007

Ok well I m going to check that out first thing tomarro Thanks De

But here are some pictures to help out

D.Hearne · Jan 16, 2007

If that's a stock carb spacer, you've also got a vacuum leak. The stock Ford 4 bbl PCV spacers don't work with aftermarket intakes. The carb flange on the aftermarket intakes are too narrow to allow the open bottom of the Ford spacer to seal against the intake.

A67StangMaster · Jan 16, 2007

Idk it came off my 351c it fit perfect on it with the aftermartket intank on the 351c...

dennis112 · Jan 16, 2007

The fast idle adjustment you were looking for should be between the the black electric choke mechanism and the carb body. It will rest on the red cam, shown on your bottom picture. The screwhead will be facing the firewall at a slight downward angle. Look hard as it is a little "busy" back there.

68RCodeConv · Jan 16, 2007

You almost certainly have a vacuum leak. If you do it will act as you describe. Take off the spacer and mount the carb directly to the intake for now. Also check the fittings on the intake and carb to make sure that they are all plugged/connected.

D.Hearne · Jan 16, 2007

A67StangMaster said:
Idk it came off my 351c it fit perfect on it with the aftermartket intank on the 351c...

It may "fit" perfectly, but the bottom side is hollow and it's not sealing against the carb flange on the intake. Been there-done that. The only thing covering the bottom side of the spacer is the gasket. Check it out.

A67StangMaster · Jan 17, 2007

I took out the spacer nothing changed but i found the fast idle screw its hard to get to I took it off agian then turned it about 2 full turns, started the car WOW it drop all the way down till the 800 rpm range, its running rich for right now I will finish the tuneing later I cant keep up the neighbors lol....

THANKS ALOT GUYS....

Holley Carb problem!!!

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