Electrical Hood gone engine got wet

Have you checked the battery and the battery cables, the ends?? I know you said you checked he grounds but have you checked the positive cable>> I have seen cables that look good but are actually shot on the inside, tarnished and the ends about falling off....
Get the battery load tested too.... The No crank you just posted suggested this??
It sure can't hurt at this point......
 
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Have you checked the battery and the battery cables, the ends?? I know you said you checked he grounds but have you checked the positive cable>> I have seen cables that look good but are actually shot on the inside, tarnished and the ends about falling off....
Get the battery load tested too.... The No crank you just posted suggested this??
It sure can't hurt at this point......
Agreed. Will check.
 
Latest and greatest. Been busy at work, so just got back out. I can get it to crank and it will stay running as long as I am giving it gas although it certainly isnt a smooth run. Once I let off the ags it dies. It has fuel pressure, it has a new fuel relay. I have checked everything on the list. It all checks out. Im was thinking about trying the alternate firing sequence but I dont think thats it since it does start. Ugh.
 
Really doubtful.
Likely corroded wire connectors, have you checked the firing order to make sure you didn't swap a couple plug wires around when you installed cap and wires?
Get a spray can of electrical cleaner and go over the black and white connectors at the back of the intake and any connectors in the wiring to the TFI including the spout, MAF connector if equipped, TPS connector, do the coil connector too, in fact look at the coil body carefully for any trace of 'spark scatter', the easy way to do that is wail till it's dark and start the car and watch for sparks escaping to ground around the coil.
 
Really doubtful.
Likely corroded wire connectors, have you checked the firing order to make sure you didn't swap a couple plug wires around when you installed cap and wires?
Get a spray can of electrical cleaner and go over the black and white connectors at the back of the intake and any connectors in the wiring to the TFI including the spout, MAF connector if equipped, TPS connector, do the coil connector too, in fact look at the coil body carefully for any trace of 'spark scatter', the easy way to do that is wail till it's dark and start the car and watch for sparks escaping to ground around the coil.
Ill give it a go tonight and let ya know.
 
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ok. So we sprayed the salt and pepper shakers as well as the injectors with the cleaner. Same status. If we pump the gas it will run but poorly. The second we arent giving it gas it dies. So Im thinking its fuel related, but what? Fuel tank, fuel pump and fuel filter are all new. by depressing the scrader valve behind the alternator, we are getting fuel shooting out so we have pressure there. Whats the next step? I have noid lights but I dont think they will read accurately if Im having to actively gas it to keep running.
 
Ok, this is not a 'engine got wet problem, you have just about covered that, you said the code reader does not go past 000? So the computer is not communicating with the code reader?
This has gotten confusing with what's been done and what's not been done,
If the car is cranking over good, but does not start (no peddle input need) then you missed something one the list,
Take a breath.
Go back through the list step by step. Don't skip around.