horrible problem after a arm install

jmd2914 · Oct 8, 2008

so i installed my MM tubular a arms today. install went ok but when i went for a test drive the steering pulled to the right, also when the car sits idling and i turn the wheel to the left or right there is a horrible shuttering feeling and it almost looks like the car raises or lowers a bit depending on which way you turn the wheel, is my alignment just really really off? or did i possibly bend a tie rod or somethin during install?

thanks

Joel

Maryland Stang · Oct 8, 2008

It probably just needs to be aligned. No biggie.

Dino Dino Bambino · Oct 8, 2008

Yeah, the wheel alignment must be checked and adjusted after installing new front control arms. You might also wanna make sure the steering rack bushings aren't worn because these can also cause the steering to pull to one side.

Jaswir · Oct 8, 2008

your sterring wheel off??

jmd2914 · Oct 8, 2008

the pulling is probably due to the misalignment, im going to get it done hopefully friday morning, im more worried about the shutter that happens when i turn the wheel when standing still. it only does it when the motor is running, the rack bushings were replaced along with the rack about a year ago

Maryland Stang · Oct 8, 2008

They should inspect the front end before they do the alignment. If there's something wrong they'll find it. Make sure you tell them about the shudder.

795.0pacecar · Oct 8, 2008

A pull is 99% of the time not an alignment issue, (Im an alignment tech). Still any time you do suspension work, you should have the car realigned.

Did you install the A arms into the stock K-member? When you install and torque the arms they need to be level. If you torqued them hanging down there could be a ton of preload in the bushings trying to keep the A-arms angled downward.

jmd2914 · Oct 9, 2008

crap....yeah i torqued them while they were hanging.

795.0pacecar · Oct 9, 2008

I would just craw under the car and loosen the bolts a little then re tighten them.

jmd2914 · Oct 9, 2008

ill start there, if i get it aligned and then loosen and tighten the bolts is it going to screw up my fresh alignment? cuz the only time i have to get it done is tomorrow morning and i dont have time to loosen them and tighten them before tomorrow morning

Maryland Stang · Oct 10, 2008

Just ask the alignment tech to loosen and tighten them while they have it on the rack.

stykthyn · Oct 10, 2008

795.0pacecar said:
A pull is 99% of the time not an alignment issue, (Im an alignment tech). Still any time you do suspension work, you should have the car realigned.

Did you install the A arms into the stock K-member? When you install and torque the arms they need to be level. If you torqued them hanging down there could be a ton of preload in the bushings trying to keep the A-arms angled downward.

now that is a handy piece of information.I never would have thought of that.

67coupe · Oct 10, 2008

795.0pacecar said:
A pull is 99% of the time not an alignment issue, (Im an alignment tech). Still any time you do suspension work, you should have the car realigned.

Did you install the A arms into the stock K-member? When you install and torque the arms they need to be level. If you torqued them hanging down there could be a ton of preload in the bushings trying to keep the A-arms angled downward.

While this is true for stock control arms (due to stock bushings), this is not the case for the MM tubular arms.

The instructions state to torque the a-arms to the required spec before the spindle/stut is connected. It evens tell the installer to move the controls arms through the entire motion range to check for binding.

Edit: I have these control arms on my car. I followed the instructions exactly. When torqued, the control arms have no binding and are extremely easy to move through the range of motion. MM control arms do not have to be torqued at ride height.

An alignment is a must after removing the strut to spindle bolts. Your camber setting will change. Also, the front will raise as the wheels are turned. This is a by-product of the caster setting. The shutter is most likely in the hydraulic system.

SVT32VDOHC · Oct 10, 2008

I would loosen then retighten, then get an alignment. I wouldn't have the alignment guy do any of that, because they'll charge labor for something you can do within 30 minutes.

Shaolin Crane · Oct 10, 2008

did you make sure that the arm mounting holes were aligned with each other i had some issues putting it on and was told to pass a rod threw the bolt holes to check and see if they were aligned and sure enough they werent round file and 5 min they were good to go.

jmd2914 · Oct 10, 2008

got the car aligned, the pulling is gone along with most of the shutter however its still there a bit, what in the hydrolic system would cause this?

795.0pacecar · Oct 10, 2008

jmd2914 said:
got the car aligned, the pulling is gone along with most of the shutter however its still there a bit, what in the hydrolic system would cause this?

Air in the system, low fluid, etc.

Id like to know what the pre-alignment specs were. The camber or caster must have been pretty crazy to cause a pull.

jmd2914 · Oct 11, 2008

left front was 0.0 camber 3.0caster .76in toe right front was .8camber 2.0caster .75in toe total toe was 1.51in so i think it was my toe that was way off

795.0pacecar · Oct 11, 2008

No because your toe was equal, and if it wasn't the car would still track straight but the steering wheel would be off to the left or right. Looking at your pre-alignment specs I can tell it would have a small pull to the right based on the lack of caster compared to the other side, and the positive camber.

Im an alignment tech at a shop that caters to luxury performance cars and race cars, I do a lot of stock and custom alignments.

horrible problem after a arm install

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I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

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horrible problem after a arm install

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I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

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