how can i hook up a battery disconnect switch in car?

[axeman]

i seem to have something draining my battery. if i don't drive the car for a week it won't start, but if i start it every couple of days it's fine. if i disconnect the battery it will stay charged. i thought instead of dealing with the headache i would just hook up a battery disconnect in the cockpit. can i just use a rocker switch? how do i wire it up? what's the easiest way to do this?

 

[TIMMY2734]

the easiest solution IMO would be to go to pep boys, autozone or whatever car parts store is local to you. Ive seen a small assortment of battery disconnect switches there. Theres one with a small green knob on it that just disconnects teh ciruit, but that is under the hood at the battery terminal.

On a side note, Is the battery good? how old is it and did you get it checked out to make sure taht it can hold a charge?

 

[Rick 91GT]

Mark do you want a NHRA legal set-up? You need to see what is draining the battery, it will cause you more headaches down the road and hurt performance. Only way I know how do do it is start tracing wires or start disconnecting things till you find out what is drawing it down.

I have the battery tested at a local Sears to make sure all the cells are good or it could still be the battery.

Did you have this issue last year? :OT: Were the arms OK?

 

[RacEoHolic330]

You can't just use a regular rocker switch. You need a big high-amp switch. They cost about $50 for the switch. You'd have to extend the positive battery cable if you want to mount it inside the car. You just cut the wire in half and put connectors on both ends and hook each end up to the studs on the switch.

here's somewhat of a diagram:

battery + =======ll switch ll=======+ started solenoid


moroso and taylor both sell good high-amp switches.

 

[axeman]

i had the battery and alternator checked out not too long ago. both were in good shape. it's probably something stupid like the glove box light not turning off when shut.

rick,
right now, i don't think i want to spend the money on an NHRA legal peice, so maybe one of those that you hook on the battery terminal will do the job for now as long as it's not an eye sore. also, i don't run any accessories, not even a radio at this time. i unhooked that to see if that was it, but it wasn't and haven't bothered to hook it back up. hhmmmm, maybe i'll take that and all the speakers out for a little weight savings. what's hooked up that's constantly hot? BTW, arms a great, but i'm having a little trouble adjusting everything. see other thread if interested. http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=415629

$50? damn, scratch that idea. a switch inside the car would be nice, but not for $50.

 

[TheUser]

the lights in the visor are always hot...one of my friends battery got ran down by the flap not shutting, thus letting the light stay on and drain the battery.

 

[stang1989]

You need a SPDT switch that can handle at least your total alternator output continuous. I use the Longacre pictured here: http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=740&catid=14

It's only $33 and it's a true SPDT switch, unlike some that you find at Summit and Jegs for $20 more.