How dangerous is a Sneaky Pete?

gnat · Sep 9, 2006

How dangerous is a NOS Sneaky Pete?

50 shot?

My mods are in my sig. My computer has been tuned and it's adaptive, will it be able to supplement extra fuel when I push the button? Are they relatively safe for a FI system with a low shot?

You'll probably all laugh but I need to know

I don't have the money to go with a wet kit or anything nice, and will probably be able to reuse this kit on my 54 ford if it doesn't work out well with the 4.6l. I also lack the ability to save so I just wanted to do something fun today.

gnat · Sep 9, 2006

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=NOS-05029NOS&N=700+115&autoview=sku

BooWFO · Sep 9, 2006

Those are really more for a carb setup. But I guess you could use it like a Dry system and inject the nitrous before the MAF. And HOPE that the computer fattens up the mixture enough to be safe.

A 10 oz bottle.. and a 50 shot you might get 1 or 2 passes out of it I think.

fastangboi · Sep 9, 2006

i would run 1 step colder plugs, they actually dont hurt a DD at all. The stock fuel system can handle a dry 50 shot no prob, but the 19lb injectors have a rating of 304hp so keep that in mind because you have a few bolt ons. Also a window switch and a fuel safety switch wont hurt either. Also clean your intake with a whole can of Deep Creep Sea Foam and run 93 when you spray.

Basicly the safer you run the safer you are. Id hate to read a post from you asking where you can get a new intake manifold.

gnat · Sep 9, 2006

BooWFO said:
Those are really more for a carb setup. But I guess you could use it like a Dry system and inject the nitrous before the MAF. And HOPE that the computer fattens up the mixture enough to be safe.

A 10 oz bottle.. and a 50 shot you might get 1 or 2 passes out of it I think.

Only problem is I don't have much room at all before the maf... it's right after my k&n filter or fairly close.

gnat · Sep 9, 2006

fastangboi said:
i would run 1 step colder plugs, they actually dont hurt a DD at all. The stock fuel system can handle a dry 50 shot no prob, but the 19lb injectors have a rating of 304hp so keep that in mind because you have a few bolt ons. Also a window switch and a fuel safety switch wont hurt either. Also clean your intake with a whole can of Deep Creep Sea Foam and run 93 when you spray.

Basicly the safer you run the safer you are. Id hate to read a post from you asking where you can get a new intake manifold.

Thanks... I run 93 every day anyway. Do window switches only allow you to push the button between a certain rpm?

Any advice on what plugs exactly? If I go to the parts store here and tell them I need one step colder plugs I can garauntee you they'll look at me like I'm crazy then show me teh screen and say which ones.

How do the colder plugs run normally? Will I notice a difference when not running the bottle?

gnat · Sep 9, 2006

Here is a pic of the k&n for reference... would it have to go between the filter and the plug right behind it or somewhere on the pipe, maybe closer to the filter but not at the filter?

Dragstr05 · Sep 9, 2006

I was always told/read you inject the nitrous after the MAF...thats why you run a wet kit because you supply the fuel, not the computer. It will run lean for a second after you inject it, but soon as the burnt mixture hits the O2 sensors it will start dumping more fuel in. I would just be more comfortable with a wet kit, but you shouldnt have any problems with a dry one.

gnat · Sep 9, 2006

Cool, thats what I thought, that it would react being behind the maf. Given that my fuel map has been altered and it is adaptable, I'm guessing that it can dump a little more than a stock ecu.

Thanks for the help guys... I'll give it a shot today

jstreet0204 · Sep 9, 2006

gnat said:
Cool, thats what I thought, that it would react being behind the maf. Given that my fuel map has been altered and it is adaptable, I'm guessing that it can dump a little more than a stock ecu.

Thanks for the help guys... I'll give it a shot today

Ok, not to be an ass here, but given the amount that you understand about your "adaptive" fuel maps, I'd say it is very dangerous.

Your tune is only apdaptive to what the MAF can read. You "HAVE" to run system in front of the MAF. The MAF is the only sensor telling the EEC how much air is coming in. If you bypass that you can kiss your engine goodbye.

Dry Systems

In a "Dry" nitrous system, extra fuel required is introduced through the fuel injectors, keeping the upper intake dry of fuel. This property is what gives the "Dry" system its name. Fuel flow can be increased either by increasing the pressure in the fuel injection system, or by modifying the vehicles' computer to increase the time the fuel injectors remain open during the engine cycle. This is typically done by spraying nitrous past the MAF sensor (Mass Air Flow), which then sends a signal to the vehicles computer telling it that it sees colder denser air, and that more fuel is needed. This is typically not an exact method of adding fuel. Once additional fuel has been introduced, it can burn with the extra oxygen provided by the Nitrous, providing additional power.
Wet Single-Point Systems

A "Wet Single-Point" nitrous system introduces the fuel and nitrous together, causing the upper intake to become wet with fuel, usually in a spray-bar plate. However, the intake must be designed for wet flow (for example, carburetors also require a wet flow intake), as distribution problems or intake backfires may result. Dry-flow intakes are designed to contain only air, which will travel through smaller pipes and tighter turns with less pressure, whereas Wet-flow intakes are designed to contain a mixture of fuel and air. "Wet" nitrous systems tend to produce more power than "Dry" systems, but are correspondingly more expensive and difficult to install.
Wet Multi-Point Systems

A "Wet Multi-Point" nitrous system introduces nitrous and fuel directly into each intake port on the engine. These systems are also known as directport nitrous systems. Normally, these systems combine nitrous and fuel through several nozzles similar in design to a "Wet Single-Point" nozzle, which mixes and meters the nitrous and fuel delivered to each cylinder individually, allowing each cylinder's nitrous/fuel ratio to be adjusted without affecting the other cylinders. Note that there are still several ways to introduce nitrous via a direct port system. There are several different types of nozzles and placements ranging from fogger nozzles that require you to drill and tap your manifold, to specialty direct port efi nozzles that fit into your fuel injector ports along with your fuel injectors.

BlackenedSVT · Sep 9, 2006

I forgot this was in "tech" i was going to ask if he got someone pregnant. hahaha

gnat · Sep 9, 2006

jstreet0204 said:
Ok, not to be an ass here, but given the amount that you understand about your "adaptive" fuel maps, I'd say it is very dangerous.

Your tune is only apdaptive to what the MAF can read. You "HAVE" to run system in front of the MAF. The MAF is the only sensor telling the EEC how much air is coming in. If you bypass that you can kiss your engine goodbye.

I understand what the maf does and how the ecu adapts to the air. If you read my post I was questioning if it would react or not.

I just have a nearly impossible location to place the nozzle in front of the maf.

ocbaud · Sep 9, 2006

gnat said:
I understand what the maf does and how the ecu adapts to the air. If you read my post I was questioning if it would react or not.

I just have a nearly impossible location to place the nozzle in front of the maf.

get a 1" or 2" longer rubber hose adapter(the rubber piece that connects the filter to the maf. that should give you plenty of room to add it before the maf

gnat · Sep 9, 2006

ocbaud said:
get a 1" or 2" longer rubber hose adapter(the rubber piece that connects the filter to the maf. that should give you plenty of room to add it before the maf

I thought about that, but the hose is still behind the maf.

I think I'll run it into the end of my k&n

jstreet0204 · Sep 9, 2006

gnat said:
I thought about that, but the hose is still behind the maf.

I think I'll run it into the end of my k&n

That's what I was going to suggest. Tapping the metal cap in the filter itself.

jstreet0204 · Sep 9, 2006

gnat said:
I understand what the maf does and how the ecu adapts to the air. If you read my post I was questioning if it would react or not.

I just have a nearly impossible location to place the nozzle in front of the maf.

It will not react. What the other guy said about it hitting the o2's then adding more fuel is TOTALLY wrong. The eec doesn't use feedback from the o2's during WOT because the a/f ratio is way out of range of what the o2's can read. I assumed you believed him beacause you said you were going to try it today.

gnat · Sep 10, 2006

jstreet0204 said:
That's what I was going to suggest. Tapping the metal cap in the filter itself.

lol well let me tell ya, it works. rofl, now if the police don't show up within the next 20 minutes I'll be alright. I have a huge straight away in front of my house and by the time I made a couple of passes people were outside. My bottle is all cold, I can hear the solenoid clicking on and off with WOT and I can feel the difference.

The website said 50hp shot, but the paperwork says 20, 25, and 30 I think, were provided with the kit. I used the biggest jet and made pretty sure my lines were clear and clean but I just don't think I was getting 50hp out of it. The power poured in seemlessly more or less but I expected a little more to be honest. I think they actually only gave me a 30 shot with the kit.

grrrrr

gnat · Sep 10, 2006

jstreet0204 said:
It will not react. What the other guy said about it hitting the o2's then adding more fuel is TOTALLY wrong. The eec doesn't use feedback from the o2's during WOT because the a/f ratio is way out of range of what the o2's can read. I assumed you believed him beacause you said you were going to try it today.

Yeah any hint of me actually getting this to work, one way or the other would and did send me to the store to buy it... even if it's wrong information.

Never the less, It's in the filter now and working

Pennywise2 · Sep 10, 2006

I would rather go with a Nitrous Express set up if you ask me.
Running nitrous is as safe as you make it my friend.

fastangboi · Sep 10, 2006

gnat said:
Thanks... I run 93 every day anyway. Do window switches only allow you to push the button between a certain rpm?

Any advice on what plugs exactly? If I go to the parts store here and tell them I need one step colder plugs I can garauntee you they'll look at me like I'm crazy then show me teh screen and say which ones.

How do the colder plugs run normally? Will I notice a difference when not running the bottle?

Window switches only allow the nitrous to be activated between certain RPMs.

Do some plug research, look up some nitrous threads and see what other guys are running. to buy colder plugs is usually just to go to a different number in the part number.

The colder plugs dont run any different. I have a daily driver with Denso Iridium plugs that are 1 step colder and i have yet to see even a hick-up.

From what ive heard either go copper or iridium.

And i plummed my nozzle on the under side of the FIPK2 pipe after the bend, nearest the throttle body. the steel braided lines touch the valve cover but thats not even a problem. its a 150hp shot and no one hnows i have it. my interior is bone stock so people dont go snooping there to find the bottle.

the closer you get the spray to the piston, the better. Well, it will be more effective and you will make the power you want.

Think about it, the longer distance that gas has to travel the warmer it will get before its in the combustion chamber. just something to think about.

How dangerous is a Sneaky Pete?

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My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.

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My first set of nuts vibrated themselves off.

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