How dangerous is a Sneaky Pete?

[Jackie Chan]

dont waste your money, buy a used wet kit off of someone. a 50 dryshot is nothing, i doubt you will even notice it. i was spraying a 150kit and went through 3 bottles then got fed up with the limited passes. bought a vortech and am just finishing it up.

 

[gnat]

Its no waste, it's been fun installing it, running it, and just playin with it. When I'm ready to do something else to the car the dry kit can go on my 54 ford customline for some more giggles.

A s/c or turbo is just not even in the scope of things to come. It just won't happen. I'm buyin a boat this month and just won't have the time or money for it.

I've been pretty satisfied without doing any mods over the ones I have already, this was more or less just for fun. I don't make it to the track or anything and I'm not trying to shave milliseconds off my time, just playin.

 

[fastangboi]

do one of those "lawnmower VS nitrous" videos. haha

 

[BurningRubber]

do one of those "lawnmower VS nitrous" videos. haha

Cept hook it up to a riding mower, lock the beeyotch in top gear and hit the Sneeky Pete... see how fast itll go...

 

[triggz]

Dry kits are not for use on EFI cars, its best suited for carb'd engines that you can tune fuel in with just a screwdriver.

If you spray nitrous that far up the intake tube, you run a huge risk of puddling and blowing your intake to shreds. I have never heard of spraying before the MAF.

If youre going to do it, install the nozzle as close to the throttle body as you can get. If you have a tuner, richen the AF mix to accomodate the n2o.

I know someone with a firebird that thought he'd have fun and install a used dry kit onto his car.. within a few weeks he had backfired it and blown his filter and air meter to pieces, and within a few months the engine failed.

N2O can be extremely dangerous for your engine when you dont do it the right way. An untuned dry shot into the MAF, IMO, is a good example of the wrong way.

 

[jstreet0204]

Dry kits are not for use on EFI cars, its best suited for carb'd engines that you can tune fuel in with just a screwdriver.

If you spray nitrous that far up the intake tube, you run a huge risk of puddling and blowing your intake to shreds. I have never heard of spraying before the MAF.

If youre going to do it, install the nozzle as close to the throttle body as you can get. If you have a tuner, richen the AF mix to accomodate the n2o.

I know someone with a firebird that thought he'd have fun and install a used dry kit onto his car.. within a few weeks he had backfired it and blown his filter and air meter to pieces, and within a few months the engine failed.


N2O can be extremely dangerous for your engine when you dont do it the right way. An untuned dry shot into the MAF, IMO, is a good example of the wrong way.

You've got a bunch of bad info in here. Puddling and backfires is MUCH more likely in a wet kit.

The MAF will accomodate a dry kit as long as it does not reach its saturation limit. (a 50 shot is not going to saturate it.

And finally the worst advice you give is to try to tune an N2O kit with a hand held tuner. The small amount of fuel adjustments you can make will not be nearly enough to make up for the amount of Air the MAF does not know about.

With the kit he bought, (which is by no means the best of safest kit) the safest way to set it up is pre MAF. Another option would be a flip chip to be properly tuned for it, but he already has is eec flashed. Some dry kits accomodate extra fuel with a controller that ups the fuel pressure, this one doesn't.

From dynotunenitrous.com

Dry nitrous systems inject nitrous oxide in front of the MAF sensor so when the cool nitrous passes the sensor it tricks the sensor into adding additonal fuel, this extra fuel along with the nitrous oxide make the addtional power.

The Wet nitrous system mounts the nozzle in fron t of the throttle body so it does not inject through the sensor! The extra fuel is taken from the fuel rail and injected into the throttle body with the nitrous oxide. This mixture will be carried into each cyl and will make more power.

 

[BooWFO]

WOW the amount of bad info in this thread is mind numbing.
Dry HAS to be placed before the MAF in order for the computer to add the required fuel. DRY system Can not puddle in the intake. Nitrous is an oxidiser. It increases the power by allowing more fuel to be burnt.

 

[jstreet0204]

WOW the amount of bad info in this thread is mind numbing.
Dry HAS to be placed before the MAF in order for the computer to add the required fuel. DRY system Can not puddle in the intake. Nitrous is an oxidiser. It increases the power by allowing more fuel to be burnt.

Thank You!!! I was beginning to question myself.

 

[gnat]

Well it seems to be working well injected in the filter. Thanks for the help guys.

I changed to a 034 and I can feel it kick in and pull a bit harder all the way through the gears. I'm almost wondering if I didn't bind the line near the injection point or near the solenoid because the bottle seems to last alot longer than I would have thought. I know I can get a gauge to run before the solenoid, would this tell me when I'm out essentially or just tell me if I'm at the optimum pressure? or both? I'd like to know I've used it all up before pulling the bottle to turn the knob and realize there is still some in there.

 

[BooWFO]

You can use a nitrous pressure gauge to tell if the bottle is empty. If it won't pressure up you know it's empty or real close anyways.
Of course with that small a bottle you'll prolly be filling it ALOT. I know I would.

HMMM
35 shot for just a lil come around hmmmm??

 

[fastangboi]

Whats up with the advice to put it before the mass air? wouldnt the freezing nitrous saturate the MA? ive always heard to set it up as close to the cylinder as possible.

The farther that gas has to travel the warmer it gets and the less effective it becomes.

 

[Jackie Chan]

dry before maf

wet after maf

ITS NOT THAT ****ING HARD PEOPLE

 

[gnat]

Mine is before the maf to be safe... in the end of my filter to be exact. Rather be safe than sorry. I've heard no pinging or detonation at all. And yes, I'll be going back for my 3rd refill today.

I will also probably pickup some more 1/8 line because the kit came with a really short one. I need to move the bottle. Then come back and replace it with a 10lb bottle next month maybe.

 

[sgarlic]

the 19lb injectors have a rating of 304hp so keep that in mind because you have a few bolt ons.

His 03s/04's have 21# injectors. So bump that number up to 305hp.

 

[fastangboi]

His 03s/04's have 21# injectors. So bump that number up to 305hp.

It would go up more than that, like 336hp for 21s.
1#gas injector for 2hp
21x2=42
42x8=336
or just multiply the injector size by 16 to find a general ball park of what it can handle.

 

[gnat]

It would go up more than that, like 336hp for 21s.
1#gas injector for 2hp
21x2=42
42x8=336
or just multiply the injector size by 16 to find a general ball park of what it can handle.

This makes me feel better... which is good because I have had no noticable problem so far. With old mustang dynometer numbers and a little math I would guesstimate my hp to be around 320-330 at the crank with nitrous.

lol now If I could just stop myself from buying a 10lb bottle

 

[jstreet0204]

It would go up more than that, like 336hp for 21s.
1#gas injector for 2hp
21x2=42
42x8=336
or just multiply the injector size by 16 to find a general ball park of what it can handle.

As I explained to you in another post about fuel injectors, that formula does not always work. Especially for a forced induction car as in this case.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=654898

The actual formula is :
((Power x BSFC) x (1 + Safety Margin))/Number of Injectors = pounds/hour


BSFC for a NA car is between .48 and .50
BSFC for a forced induction, including Nitrous car is between .65 and .68

To handle 336hp on a FI with only a 10% safety margin you'd need 30lb injectors.

http://www.aempower.com/Faqs.aspx?CategoryID=51#148

 

[gnat]

As I explained to you in another post about fuel injectors, that formula does not always work. Especially for a forced induction car as in this case.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=654898

The actual formula is :
((Power x BSFC) x (1 + Safety Margin))/Number of Injectors = pounds/hour


BSFC for a NA car is between .48 and .50
BSFC for a forced induction, including Nitrous car is between .65 and .68

To handle 336hp on a FI with only a 10% safety margin you'd need 30lb injectors.

http://www.aempower.com/Faqs.aspx?CategoryID=51#148

So I need a new pump and injectors - what are our pumps rated at? Either that or to drop my jet back...

 

[BooWFO]

Cough * Wetkit *Cough

 

[jstreet0204]

So I need a new pump and injectors - what are our pumps rated at? Either that or to drop my jet back...

Pumps:----(13V)40psi--60psi--80psi-(BAP 17V)40psi--60psi-80psi
4.6 2V ('99+)----158---115---65--------------264----201--152
4.6 4V ('99-'02)--154---131--100-------------211----189---162
'03/'04 Cobra(x2)-167---145--119-------------236----215--189
Lightning---------149---127--95--------------204----181--158
Focus Zetec------147---103--54--------------230----190--160
SVT Focus-------217---185---143-------------302----278--244

I dont' have the numbers for the aviator or ford GT pumps, but they are also options.