I am just wondering where they install and how they hold the axel. I am thining next time I am in there I might put these in because if I broke an axel and the wheel came off, that could make a mess.
How do C-clip Eleminators work?
- Thread starter 90mustangGT
- Start date
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
Instead of the C-clips that fit inside the channel on the axle inside the differential holding them in the car (actually just holding them to the differential), you would use the c-clip eliminators. They press onto the axle behind the flange and actually bolt to the brake backing plate. This means the only way the axle could come out is breaking right at the flange.
It's also important to note the wheel bearings will now be inside the c-clip eliminator as you will cut off the end of the axle housing where they used to go.
It's also important to note the wheel bearings will now be inside the c-clip eliminator as you will cut off the end of the axle housing where they used to go.
'preciate it, Thanks for the info, I think I have an idea. So what you are saying is you remove the axel shaft, remove the axel berrings and backing plate and the eleminators go onto where the backing plate used to go?
A few more Q's:
1. Are they a major PITA to install?
2. What needs to be cut?
3. How do they hold onto the axel?
A few more Q's:
1. Are they a major PITA to install?
2. What needs to be cut?
3. How do they hold onto the axel?
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
90mustangGT said:
You would remove the axle, remove everything down to the bearings (brakes, etc.), then cut the snout off of the rear axle housing. There's a seam where it needs to be cut -- you could use a hacksaw (ugh!), sawzall, etc, and file smooth. The c-clip elim is pressed onto the axle (that's what holds it to the axle), and it is bolted to the backing plate (the backing plate is still used). Then it all fits neatly under your brakes and it all goes back together.
As for installation -- the hard part (I think) is cutting the axle. If you buy new axles from a company like Strange, they will press the elims on for like $10 -- which I think is worth it. Then it's just a matter of bolting it together.
Oh, there is a gasket as well -- and some have reported leaking fluid -- however I have yet to experience that.
Hopefully that answered everything...I'll look and see fi I have pics of mine, I might.
Thanks. Doesn't sound too bad, I hate cutting. I would guess that if you didn't cut the tube straight and smooth, you would have leakage problems. I'll probally do this someday, at least now it doesn't sound to bad.
Thanks again,
-Jason
Thanks again,
-Jason
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
90mustangGT said:
Well, I would imagine you could have problems, but like I said, there's a seam/line in the housing, so it would be tough to be THAT far off. And then a little filing should even it all out. Hard to explain, but it won't be as bad as you're thinking it is, you would probably have to try to get it uneven -- it's enough of a line/seam that your natural tendency will be to cut right along the edge (and there is an edge there to follow) where you're supposed to.
I'll look for pics -- they will do a much better job of explaining.
A friend of mine had them on an old car he had, and was running into leaky seals a lot he said. And he said everytime he changes them, he had to replace the "wedding band ring" he called it. I never saw it, but just doesn't sound like fun to me. I know it's a lot safer, but I dunno. By the way, if you've ever seen a 9 inch rear, that's where the idea for the eliminators come from.
EMW150
Founding Member
I run the Moser axles and eliminators. They install the same as 89MustangGX describes except where on the Strange type you cut off the snout flush, the Mosers have a recessed groove in the eliminator so you leave about 1/8"-1/4" (can't remember exact amount) of the snout to fit into that recess. Also no gasket on the Mosers, just RTV Ultra Black. I've been running them about 4 years now - no problems.
Ray III
New Member
why not just replace with the 9" rearend, if they are built properly to begin with from what DropTopR says?
TIMMY2734
Founding Member
When you cut the tubes, put a hose clamp around it and use that as your guide. The 9" will take more power to turn as opposed to the 8.8. And for most people here, the 8.8 is more than they will ever need in terms of how much power it wil support.
However, another option is welding on some 9" ends.......
However, another option is welding on some 9" ends.......
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