How do I adjust my rocker arms
- Thread starter myfirstii
- Start date
blown1989saleen
Founding Member
Starscream88
New Member
If there AFR Id think (In most cases) There stud mount
In that case just tighten them down to the torque specs (either 50 or 60 Lbs) Check the AFR website
and your done
Stud mount is as EASY as 123
Pedestal is a little more tricky but still simple
In that case just tighten them down to the torque specs (either 50 or 60 Lbs) Check the AFR website
and your done
Stud mount is as EASY as 123
Pedestal is a little more tricky but still simple
TIMMY2734
Founding Member
If they are stud mount use these instructions. Simple as pie
Compliments of ED C of FTI
HYDRAULIC LIFTER/VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.
2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.
4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.
Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.
Compliments of ED C of FTI
HYDRAULIC LIFTER/VALVE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the pre-load on. Only do one cylinder at a time.
2. Rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation (clockwise) and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder's intake rocker arm.
3. To adjust, back off the intake rocker arm adjusting nut and remove any tension from the push rod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the push rod seat up against the retaining lock, if you give it time to do so.
4. Twist the intake push rod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the push rod, you are at "Zero Lash". Turn the adjusting nut down one half to three-quarters of a turn from that point for street applications. Use 1/8 to 1/4 turn for race applications. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to turn the engine, watching that same intake valve/rocker you just set. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
There may be some initial valvetrain noise when the engine is first fired up but once oil pressure has stabilized and the engine heats up, it should quiet right down to a normal level.
Remember that some racier camshafts will have a mechanical sound to them and will not be a silent as factory units.
blown1989saleen
Founding Member
dude no offense but where the hell did you get this from??? the RIGHT way is to do it is the way TIMMY2734 postedStarscream88 said:If there AFR Id think (In most cases) There stud mount
In that case just tighten them down to the torque specs (either 50 or 60 Lbs) Check the AFR website
and your done
Stud mount is as EASY as 123
Pedestal is a little more tricky but still simple
Scott
04sleeper
Founding Member
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Follow Timmy's advice above...and you probably know - while it's not mentioned in the instructions - I think the Scorpion's have an allen screw that locks the nut into place - be sure to back it way out before starting - and to tighten it all the way down once you've made your 1/2 to 3/4 turns on the rocker nut.
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