How do I get to Tail light bulbs on 98 ?

I was expecting to pull the trunk liner back and have access to the bulbs but it doesnt look that way..do you have to pull the whole light out to get to them ? Also how do you get the 2 small license plate lights out ? they have Philips screw heads on them but they just spin ? Ive tried to reach up behind them but cant fit my hand in there to feel the back side of them..it almost looks like a small clip or something instead of a screw..any help appreciated.

Thanks, I went ahead and pulled the tail lights and changed the bulbs.

thanks !