How do you work the VOLTAGE METER? Going to install plenum/tb tomorrow.. *PIC*
- Thread starter CottonBurnerz
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Blev
New Member
CottonBurnerz said:Here's a pic of it... I want to take the voltage of the Throttle position sensor first before installing the new plenum/tb, but I have no clues how to work a voltage meter.. so many numbers. What am I suppose to set it on to measure the voltage on tps?
Here's a pic:
Errrr...
I think it's the DC V 20 that you put it on to read for a car. I know it's not AC or OHM. Just out of curiosity, why do you need to measure? I mean, it's a straight swap isn't it?
P.S.
Happy Birthday again 
cybore
New Member
I assume you will be measuring the throttle position sensor. I think normal readings are around 1 volt DC, so set the multimeter to the DC V section, 2000m should be good (2000m = 2000 millivolts= 2 volts, this is the maximum it will now read).
You also have two probes, black and red. Plug the black probe into the black hole, and the red probe into the middle hole. Touch the metal end of the black probe to ground, and the red one to the wire that carries the juice.
But I don't know which wires on the TPS are positive and ground.
You also have two probes, black and red. Plug the black probe into the black hole, and the red probe into the middle hole. Touch the metal end of the black probe to ground, and the red one to the wire that carries the juice.
But I don't know which wires on the TPS are positive and ground.
AikiRonin
Founding Member
Just set it to 20 on the DC V scale. It will read anything up to 20 V then. So you will see 2.0 on the meter. If it goes past that scale it will say OL, just switch it to the next higher scale. If you want to read mV then switch it to a lower scale than 20.
On 2000mV, 2V is the max you can read. Most electical devices can vary + or - a bit which is no big deal, but on 2000mV if you were actually readin say 2.3V on the 2000mV scale it would read OL instead and you'd have to go up on the scale. It's easy.
On 2000mV, 2V is the max you can read. Most electical devices can vary + or - a bit which is no big deal, but on 2000mV if you were actually readin say 2.3V on the 2000mV scale it would read OL instead and you'd have to go up on the scale. It's easy.
03redfiregt
New Member
I just installed my plenum and throttlebody a few weeks ago. YOu want to put it on the lowest dc voltage there is. You have to pierce the wires as it is the only way to get a reading. The two wires you want to probe are the red&gray wire and the white&gray wire. DO this with the ignition on but the engine not started. It should be at less than 1 volt . It should be set at as cloes to 1 volt as possible without being at it. ex: .995. Incase you don't know how to chnge the reading loosen the bolts holding it on and rotate it untill you get the correct reading. 
Blev
New Member
Dumb question, but why do you need to do all this? I still have the stock TB and Plenum so I have yet to encounter this. I thought it was 5 bolts on the Plenum than bolt up the new set-up.
CottonBurnerz said:
a. The black test lead (wire) goes in the COM socket.
b. The red test lead goes in the V-Q-M socket. Note: "Q" is as close to "Omega" as I can get on a computer keyboard.
c. Put the scale to 20 V DC as said previously
d. Put the end of the black test lead on ground (any point on the car frame or body where you get a good electrical ground connection).
e. Put the end of the red test lead on what you want to measure.
If you wish to measure the throttle position sensor, the red probe will have to contact the metal connection (pin) on the plug that mates with the throttle position sensor. If you can't get a good connection because the connector is molded plastic, then get a straight pin out of momma's sewing basket, lance the connecting wire with the straight pin and put the end of the test probe on the straight pin. Note the straight pin lances the wire and gets through the insulation without damage to the wire. When you remove the straight pin following test, you don't even need to tape up the spot where the straight pin was inserted. The insulation will nearly self-heal when you remove the straight pin.
Probe the middle wire on the TPS switch with the red probe and I just stuck the black probe in the metal ground band between the hood and firewall.
It’s a PITA to hold both wires in place and make an adjustment to the TPS at the same time (if there is an adjustment needed and you’re by yourself). Poking the black probe into the ground band takes care of one wire you don’t need to hold in place and I used a straight pin on the middle wire of the TPS.
Once you get the meter hooked up and are getting a reading (if you need to make any adjustment) loosen the two screws to the TPS and you will see how very little movement will cause a change in the meter reading. Both screws holding the TPS in place are straight threw, the holds are not slotted. This gives you an idea of how sensitive the adjustments are.
A lot of people just bolt the TPS to the new TB and have no problems at all or when installing a TB that comes with a TPS have no problems at all. This wasn’t the case for me when I installed a Ford TB that comes with a new TPS. The car ran fine after the install for three and a half weeks, no idle issues what so ever but the first time I ran the AC the idle would hang around 1200rpms when I was rolling to a stop and it would hang there if I were to let the car roll at 5mph for 10 miles until I came to a complete stop. Something it never did with the factory TB and TPS. After adjusting the TPS the car runs and idles fine now with or without the AC.
In short, if your car is running and idling like it should now then you know the IAC is good and not causing a problem with the idle I would get a reading off the factory TPS before I removed anything. This way if you do end up with a hanging idle or stalling after the new TB is in place you can check the voltage and see if it’s the same or close to the same as the factory setting and make adjustments if need be.
Sorry for the long post, just trying to help out with a little preventative maintenance.
-Cale
It’s a PITA to hold both wires in place and make an adjustment to the TPS at the same time (if there is an adjustment needed and you’re by yourself). Poking the black probe into the ground band takes care of one wire you don’t need to hold in place and I used a straight pin on the middle wire of the TPS.
Once you get the meter hooked up and are getting a reading (if you need to make any adjustment) loosen the two screws to the TPS and you will see how very little movement will cause a change in the meter reading. Both screws holding the TPS in place are straight threw, the holds are not slotted. This gives you an idea of how sensitive the adjustments are.
A lot of people just bolt the TPS to the new TB and have no problems at all or when installing a TB that comes with a TPS have no problems at all. This wasn’t the case for me when I installed a Ford TB that comes with a new TPS. The car ran fine after the install for three and a half weeks, no idle issues what so ever but the first time I ran the AC the idle would hang around 1200rpms when I was rolling to a stop and it would hang there if I were to let the car roll at 5mph for 10 miles until I came to a complete stop. Something it never did with the factory TB and TPS. After adjusting the TPS the car runs and idles fine now with or without the AC.
In short, if your car is running and idling like it should now then you know the IAC is good and not causing a problem with the idle I would get a reading off the factory TPS before I removed anything. This way if you do end up with a hanging idle or stalling after the new TB is in place you can check the voltage and see if it’s the same or close to the same as the factory setting and make adjustments if need be.
Sorry for the long post, just trying to help out with a little preventative maintenance.
-Cale
trinity_gt
10 Year Member
The easiest thing to do is not to try to measure voltage, IMO. It means getting at the pins of the connector via backprobing, etc. A simpler way is to measure the resistance of the TPS before removing it.
Unplug the TPS wiring harness connector at the TPS. Put the voltmeter in the 2000-ohm range and probe the TPS itself to measure the resistance between either the center and top or center and bottom terminals. Record the reading and note whether the top or bottom contact was used. When setting up the TPS on the new TB, simply probe the same two pins and set the resistance to be the same, then tighten the screws. Re-check and adjust if necessary.
Unplug the TPS wiring harness connector at the TPS. Put the voltmeter in the 2000-ohm range and probe the TPS itself to measure the resistance between either the center and top or center and bottom terminals. Record the reading and note whether the top or bottom contact was used. When setting up the TPS on the new TB, simply probe the same two pins and set the resistance to be the same, then tighten the screws. Re-check and adjust if necessary.
spree
New Member
uhmm I didn't need a voltage meter either to do my throttle body/plenum swap. I just bought a new TPS to avoid tinkering with the Ford one, and swapped everything. Very easy install, and haven't had any problems whatsoever...
twogts4us
15 Year Member
I swapped the old one onto the Accufab TB without metering it with no issues. I wouldn't bother with the meter unless you have issues. The amount of adjustment is very tiny.
03redfiregt
New Member
the adjustment amount is really small but if its wrong the car won't run right. Like mine did when i installed mine. The idle was hanging when coming to a stop and shifting. Adjusted tps. problem solved. FOr the guys whoe never checked it and have'nt had a problem you are staight lucky. Even if ou put a new tps on you still have to set the voltage.
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