Well, when I was telling the cam grinder(Cam Motion) what the car will be used for and how I will run it, i told him that I'll mostly run it n/a but will spray it occasionally. I don't know if the cam grind is nitrous-friendly or not. I don't think the LCA is 114. If I remember correctly its 110. I just wanted to have the nitrous as kind of an insurance policy if I happen to be losing a race.I'm curious.
Surely you know that a motor built to run on nitrous, does not run N/A.
In order to maximize the HP potential of an engine designed to run on N20, the L/C on the cam is such that the motor ran N/A runs like a pig.
You can throw all of the nitrous you want at the engine, but if the engine is built to run N/A, advertised HP levels sprayed will not be realized.
That said,...why bother to see how it runs "on the motor" if you intend to make all of your power sprayed?
As a footnote, The last 5.0 I ran that was purpose built for n2o had a sportsman fogger, and a cam ground on a 114 L/C. It ran 8.30's on the motor, and 6.60 sprayed in the 1/8th on 175 hp pills.
I agree, if the intent is to build a strong N/A combo then throw a 150 shot at it to augment that power, (when you need "a little more") then you take what you get, and call it a day.No doubt a motor can be built to run better on nitrous and take maximum advantage of what it has to offer. But, i would say that most amature/street driven nitrous users would prefer a well performing n/a motor, then spray it when they needed a little more.
Joe
Well, when I was telling the cam grinder(Cam Motion) what the car will be used for and how I will run it, i told him that I'll mostly run it n/a but will spray it occasionally. I don't know if the cam grind is nitrous-friendly or not. I don't think the LCA is 114. If I remember correctly its 110. I just wanted to have the nitrous as kind of an insurance policy if I happen to be losing a race.
I sure hope a Dart Sportsman block, Scat 9000 forged crank and rods and Probe forged pistons is enough to handle the power. My comp will only be approx 9.6:1I agree, if the intent is to build a strong N/A combo then throw a 150 shot at it to augment that power, (when you need "a little more") then you take what you get, and call it a day.
But when the original post is from somebody contemplating using a Big shot system to try and get the MOST power out of his combo when the whole combo might be handicapped by a N/A cam just leaves me wondering why.
No problem,..Every decision you make when building an engine will have consequences when trying to make max power. As w/ every power adder, N20, blower, turbos,or an engine built to run N/A...there is a cam profile recommendation w/ the intent to make the most power for that particular combo. in your case, a 110 L/C is a motor cam........purely a motor cam.
Blowers and turbos are more forgiving in that they force air in and a compromised cam profile will not affect max power potential "as much".
Bottom line, you just have to decide what you are willing to sacrifice in exchange for what you want. So do you spend $300.00+ for a progressive timer, and whatever the hell a $$$B/S system costs for an EFI engine when you'll never be able to realize the true power potential of the system to even need the controller?
or......
Do you contact the cam grinder and ask for a different $150.00 cam profile that'll truly take advantage of a nitrous system, w/ the knowledge that you'll sacrifice drivability, milage, and N/A power when you do?
P.S. Do you have the bottom end to support the kind of power you're looking for?
I sure hope a Dart Sportsman block, Scat 9000 forged crank and rods and Probe forged pistons is enough to handle the power. My comp will only be approx 9.6:1
I thought it was a Scat 9000 but I haven't looked at it in a while. I'll check it out and make sure.I thought the Scat 9000 series is a cast crank. I say this because that is what I run. A Scat 9000 cast crank, 4340 Scat forged I Beams and Probe SRS pistons. This setup is rated to 550HP.
Joe
If the Scat 9000 crank isn't a forged crank then its definately not the 9000. I know for sure its a 4340 forged crank.
Actually nitrous motors run very good NA... The race car would run mid 8s with a gear and converter change. We could go a little higher compression wise off the bottle but the cam wouldn't need changed
The use of the term "runs very good" must have a different meaning for you sir.
Every purpose built nitrous motor I've ever seen had a cam w/ a ridiculous L/C for a N/A motor (like 116). And every second hand conversation I had w/ the owner of the motor all revolved around the conversation from the cam grinder letting them know to forget about performance N/A with that cam in it. That, coupled w/ the required slow burning nitrous blended fuel (as I'm sure you know) would net a N/A run that would be....uhhh.....less than comparable to the motor built to run that way.
As for bumping the comp, the same engines already had stupid high comp ratios as well (13-14),.......how much higher would you go than that?
P.S. How much more (besides a gear, converter, and a possible bump in comp) would you change to consider it a straight across comparison to a N/A engine pass)?
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