• Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

How easy is it to install new shocks and springs

  • Thread starter Thread starter hotdog71
  • Start date Start date Jan 28, 2008

hotdog71

Member
Dec 8, 2004
427
0
16
Seattle, Eastside
Jan 28, 2008
#1
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #1
Hi All,

The title says it all really,

I want to install some new shocks and springs on my 03 GT vert and wanted to find out if any special tools (like spring compression tool) are needed or any tips on install?

any comments welcome.
 

96GTstang46

New Member
Nov 20, 2006
142
0
0
Seattle, Washington
Jan 28, 2008
#2
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #2
Iam sure there is a ton of write ups on this and iam sure someone will post them for you lol..
But no, you dont need to spring compression tool. To get the top nut off the strut under the hood, you will need an air compressor. (if you dont have one that is) its a pretty easy install but for you 1st time, give yourself a good afternoon or so (5hours or so)
The rear springs and shocks are really easy. Its a few bolts, and drop the rear end, and give the rear spring a good Kick and should fall right out.

PM me if you have some questions. I have done the swap like 1,209,438,440,505 times now lol..
 
M

MichaelsLilGray

New Member
Jan 27, 2008
32
0
0
Tyler, Texas
Jan 28, 2008
#3
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #3
the best advice i can give, be patient, and have 2 hydrolic jacks available. if you have 2 people it usualy makes a world of difference. as soon as you drop the rear end you should be able to fanagle them out by hand. the front ones if you happen to have a really long screwdriver flathead, it tends to do the trick . good luck if you already havent done so
 

blackfang

Founding Member
Dec 17, 2001
1,290
1
39
Richmond, Va
Jan 28, 2008
#4
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #4
Just to beat some of the other ones that will say this. You do not need a spring compressor. There are tons of write ups out there and if you are patient, it will work out.

Here is one I found but I disagree with losening the strut top. I always took out the two bottom strut bolts.
http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/steedaspring1.htm
 

hotdog71

Member
Dec 8, 2004
427
0
16
Seattle, Eastside
Jan 28, 2008
#5
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #5
thanks for the comments
 

ErikTheBeast

Member
Apr 12, 2006
124
0
16
Kansas City MO
Jan 28, 2008
#6
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #6
Its pretty easy , just get a few buddys to help out. I only had one hydraulic jack and didnt ever use my compressor during the install. Took us a whole saturday afternoon but it was worth it. You will want to get an alignment as soon as you get done though otherwise your tires are gonna get eaten alive.
 

blackfang

Founding Member
Dec 17, 2001
1,290
1
39
Richmond, Va
Jan 28, 2008
#7
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #7
ErikTheBeast said:
Its pretty easy , just get a few buddys to help out. I only had one hydraulic jack and didnt ever use my compressor during the install. Took us a whole saturday afternoon but it was worth it. You will want to get an alignment as soon as you get done though otherwise your tires are gonna get eaten alive.
Click to expand...
I disagree. You will want to wait 2 weeks to allow settling of the springs. Then align the car.
 

40th GT

New Member
Apr 7, 2004
916
0
0
Lawrenceville, GA
Jan 28, 2008
#8
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #8
96GTstang46 said:
Iam sure there is a ton of write ups on this and iam sure someone will post them for you lol..
But no, you dont need to spring compression tool. To get the top nut off the strut under the hood, you will need an air compressor. (if you dont have one that is) its a pretty easy install but for you 1st time, give yourself a good afternoon or so (5hours or so)
Click to expand...
Is it necessary to have the air compressor? Can the job be done with just a torque wrench?
 

Blinkstang

Member
Apr 2, 2005
316
0
16
Chicago, IL
Jan 28, 2008
#9
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #9
40th GT said:
Is it necessary to have the air compressor? Can the job be done with just a torque wrench?
Click to expand...
I've swapped out my springs and struts numerous times using an electric impact without any problems (takes the nut off the top of the strut right off). I have this impact from Harbor Freight - LINK
 
M

MichaelsLilGray

New Member
Jan 27, 2008
32
0
0
Tyler, Texas
Jan 28, 2008
#10
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #10
i never once used a impact or air wrench when i did mine...and harolds, and hopes, and chads.. and harolds again, and harolds again.. cause he is never happy ROFLMAO
 

propellerhead

New Member
Apr 13, 2004
1,541
0
0
"but what's with the but shots?"
Jan 28, 2008
#11
  • Jan 28, 2008
  • #11
40th GT said:
Is it necessary to have the air compressor? Can the job be done with just a torque wrench?
Click to expand...
The air compressor drives an impact wrench. The impact wrench makes it really easy to remove the top nut on the front shock. If you just turn it with a regular wrench, the shock turns with it. The impact of the air rachet allows you to loosen the nut with only minimal turning of the shock. Without an air compressor and air rachet, you will have to get creative with a long flat blade screwdriver to remove the top nut.

If you don't want to dick with the top nut, you will have to remove the C&C plate. It's one or the other. Either way, the shock needs to drop to allow the A arm to lower to get the spring out.

Most of the How-To's online didn't point this part out.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jan 29, 2008
#12
  • Jan 29, 2008
  • #12
propellerhead said:
The air compressor drives an impact wrench. The impact wrench makes it really easy to remove the top nut on the front shock. If you just turn it with a regular wrench, the shock turns with it. The impact of the air rachet allows you to loosen the nut with only minimal turning of the shock. Without an air compressor and air rachet, you will have to get creative with a long flat blade screwdriver to remove the top nut.

If you don't want to dick with the top nut, you will have to remove the C&C plate. It's one or the other. Either way, the shock needs to drop to allow the A arm to lower to get the spring out.

Most of the How-To's online didn't point this part out.
Click to expand...

You can just disconnect the front strut from the spindle and never even pop the hood of the car to install the springs. If you wana change the front struts too you don't HAVE to use an impact. I can't remember if the stock struts have a relief in the top but my KYBs do. You can put a wrench onto the relieved part of the strut and turn the nut with a wrench. Its always nice to have a friend help hold one of the wrenches but it isn't the end of the word if you have to do it all yourself.

While you are there you should think about replacing the sway bar bushings with some poly ones. My rubber ones were SHOT a long time ago.
 

hotdog71

Member
Dec 8, 2004
427
0
16
Seattle, Eastside
Jan 29, 2008
#13
  • Jan 29, 2008
  • #13
Great feedback peeps

So to recap:
1) The strut can be removed without the use of and air driver but would be easier if one is used.
I don't own one so looks like I get to do it the hard way

2) Can the strut be disconnected from the spindle instead?
I guess it would be a bit more difficult to re-align the strut and spindle back together do to the compression factors at least that is what I have seen on coil over set-ups on the UK cars that I owned and worked on when I lived there.

New questions:
1) At what point do you need bumpsteer kit when lowering?
I don't want to go too low only about 1' 1/2" inch.

2) At what point do you require adjustable CC plates?

thanks for your comments.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Jan 29, 2008
#14
  • Jan 29, 2008
  • #14
CC plates are always nice to have but at a 1.5" drop you are going to need them. A drop ball joint wouldn't be bad either. The bump steer kit isn't really needed.
 

blackfang

Founding Member
Dec 17, 2001
1,290
1
39
Richmond, Va
Jan 30, 2008
#15
  • Jan 30, 2008
  • #15
hotdog71 said:
2) Can the strut be disconnected from the spindle instead?
I guess it would be a bit more difficult to re-align the strut and spindle back together do to the compression factors at least that is what I have seen on coil over set-ups on the UK cars that I owned and worked on when I lived there.
Click to expand...
I removed the 2 lower bolts on the strut when I installed mine. However, you are replacing yours, so It may not matter.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Intake
  • James S
  • Jul 10, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
10
Views
191
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jul 12, 2026
James S
J
Suspension Harsh Ride
  • PonyGTrider
  • Mar 20, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
  • 2 3 4
Replies
62
Views
2K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Apr 11, 2026
Noobz347
B
Where to go from here on my build…
  • B0udreaux
  • Jul 14, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
Replies
8
Views
205
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Jul 18, 2026
AeroCoupe
A
Procharger install/prep questions
  • ahratrew
  • Nov 22, 2025
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Replies
2
Views
376
SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech Nov 26, 2025
Noobz347
B
water pump installation questions
  • B0udreaux
  • Feb 5, 2026
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • 2
Replies
38
Views
2K
1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk- Feb 28, 2026
General karthief
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?