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  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

how good is this short block (link inside)

  • Thread starter Thread starter russ1979
  • Start date Start date Aug 3, 2010

russ1979

Member
Oct 6, 2006
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albuquerque, new mexico
Aug 3, 2010
#1
  • Aug 3, 2010
  • #1
my 5.0 is burning oil and it's time to re build the eng.
i thinking about buying this short block from LRS. it has forged pistons but is much cheaper then others buy ford stokers, dss and coast high.

but i want to put a top end kit on it like the trick flow or edelbrock performer or the Holley kit. then later i MAY add boost. 8-10psi

will this short block be able to handle this kind of power?
one of the reasons i like lrs is the layaway and i could pay it off in the next 4-5 mo's
but i don't want to do the job twice
so what do you think?
1979-95 Mustang 5.0L 302 Economy Short Block With Forged Pistons, Accepts Roller Cam at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
 
3

347HO

Member
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Seattle
Aug 3, 2010
#2
  • Aug 3, 2010
  • #2
You're comparing a 302ci sbf to forged stroker setups?

Here's my spin on the "value" of spending money on an engine;
The power and torque potential of a stroker engine far, far outshines the extra cost you spend over a stock displacement engine.

If you were to compare cost for cost on what fordstrokers offers, you'd see a huge difference and value you receive.

I don't have experience with those other engine shops.

Dana
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
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#3
  • Aug 3, 2010
  • #3
I looked at that shortblock a while back, not a bad deal IMO. A lot of guys are going to suggest you find a block and build your own, but considering tools, labor, machine work, and parts, its pretty close to the same price of your average forged bottom end build. I would still suggest looking at fordstrokers.com if your interested in a bottom end.
 

2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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#4
  • Aug 3, 2010
  • #4
I looked over the stroker kits at Fordstrokers, For another $600 you can get a decent 347.

If this was a question about the budget setup in your link (top right corner), i'd say do the budget $699 shortblock.
But it's not, you are considering a shortblock for $1499.
That number is too close to stroker territory for me.

If money is the issue and you like layaway.
Goto a local repudable engine builder.
Get a parts list of what you'll need.
Acquire another block, and buy stuff in stages.
Then drop it all off and have it done.
He'll probably be willing to drop your cam in with timing chain, maybe even slap your heads on.
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
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Seattle
Aug 3, 2010
#5
  • Aug 3, 2010
  • #5
Another point.
The average enthusiast does not need a forged crank.
Scat steel cranks are known to hold 7000rpm blasts at 450 to the ground.
Probe/Scat lightweight I beam rods are a good mate for the steel crank, and get the lightweight forged pistons to help offset some of the weight.
A 28oz imbalance is preferred here.

If you know how to assemble the block, check out fordstroker's DIY kits and save even more.

I have done a lot of business with fordstrokers, I don't receive any kickbacks or make money from my suggestions.
I just know first, second and third hand... Jim's product is at the top of anyone's game right now.
 

russ1979

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Oct 6, 2006
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albuquerque, new mexico
Aug 3, 2010
#6
  • Aug 3, 2010
  • #6
2000xp8 said:
If this was a question about the budget setup in your link (top right corner), i'd say do the budget $699 shortblock.
But it's not, you are considering a shortblock for $1499.
That number is too close to stroker territory for me.
.
Click to expand...

i really like the price of the budget short block (699)
but that one has cast pistons that i don't think could handle ANY boost.
it would really limit me
 

2000xp8

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#7
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #7
russ1979 said:
i really like the price of the budget short block (699)
but that one has cast pistons that i don't think could handle ANY boost.
it would really limit me
Click to expand...

Then do this instead.
Forget about the boost (which requires at least a $2000 investment in a supercharger).
Do a decent 347, then buy a good intake and one of the better sets of heads.
You'll make close to the same power as with boost, except you will have less problems.

I'd take a strong 347 setup any day over an SC setup on a stock block pushrod engine anyday.

I've seen cars as high as 477rwhp all motor with a 347.
Is that the norm? no, but it can be done.
Done properly though it's not hard to get 400rwhp.
This car was done at my buddies shop, nothing radical about it.'86-'93 Mustang Cylinder Heads - 347 Engine Head Swap - 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
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#8
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #8
IMO, i would never throw that much money into a shortblock and use cast pistons.
Can you get away with it? Yeah im sure there are plenty of guys doing it, but if your going to overhaul your bottom-end might as well go ahead and go forged and it will never be an issue again when you get bored of the current power level and opt for boost or spray
 

2000xp8

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#9
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #9
For the record, i'm by no means suggesting the $699 shortblock.
My point was that if the price difference between the rebuilt and the stroker was $1500, you can make an argument to buy the cheaper, but since it's only about $600 difference from the engine the OP wants to buy, IMO that number is too close to stroker money.
 

93fox5.0

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Aug 4, 2010
#10
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #10
i believe its coasthigh but its either them or dss have a payment plan as well and have much better quality stuff
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
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#11
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #11
you cant beat Fordstrokers.com
I dont work there, nor have i ever bought anything from Woody but ive NEVER heard a single complaint from anyone who's bought a stroker from him. CHP and DSS are good, dont get me wrong but im really impressed with how woody stands behind his work.
 

NIKwoaC

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#12
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #12
I don't see the point in putting a forged crank in a stock block, regardless of the direction he takes. Why use a crank that will support twice as much power as the block? I vote for a bare bones stock rebuild or a cast crank stroker.
 

tannerc91gt

This last 25% is foreign territory at this point
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#13
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #13
NikwoaC said:
I don't see the point in putting a forged crank in a stock block, regardless of the direction he takes. Why use a crank that will support twice as much power as the block? I vote for a bare bones stock rebuild or a cast crank stroker.
Click to expand...

that never really made sense to me either. Some of those kits use internals that will far outlast the block. Unless your running a dart block or a high level DSS block, i just dont see the point. Sure your crank may be good to 1000hp but it doesnt do you a whole lot of good laying on the ground when the block splits down the valley
 

russ1979

Member
Oct 6, 2006
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albuquerque, new mexico
Aug 4, 2010
#14
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #14
i like the idea of a storker but a few of the reasons i was not thinking of a storker was
1- i still need to pass the snifer test. so i cant go to wild.
2- the car is not daily driven but i like to drive it a lot and i don't want to have to mess with it all the time.
3- this is not a budget build but money is still a object.

thats for all your inputs guys. you almost have me convened on buying a 347 or 331

400 at the crank would be awesome. i'm sure it would over power my 245's r17 45's easy
 
3

347HO

Member
Jan 13, 2008
462
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16
Seattle
Aug 4, 2010
#15
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #15
It's not the cubic inches that affect emissions.
it's;
Camshaft and tune.
Assuming cats, O2 and EGR in good working order or not required.
 

mustangmutt

Member
Aug 2, 2010
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6
18
El Paso, TX
Aug 4, 2010
#16
  • Aug 4, 2010
  • #16
Just my two cents. I built a 347 stroker for my shop truck. I LOVE it. I used a Mexican 302 block and E7TE Heads with some port work on the exhaust side. The thing is a Torque monster. With better heads and a bigger cam and carb I could imagine the power potential, but I built it for good torque. It never sees more than 5000 rpm. I bought the kit on ebay. The Crank was high nodular and knife edged and the Rods were profiled and it came with Mahle pistons. The machine shop ballanced the rotating assembly, bored, honed and clearanced the block and I did the assembly. After all was said and done I had $3000 in the whole engine air filter to pan, fan to flywheel. Go with the stroker.
 
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