to be honest, it would be stupid to put the motor in without the oil pan, it is a major pita to swap a pan with the engine in the car, its as simple as a few bolts with it out of the car, ur best bet is to wait, and if your dad has a hissy, tell him you cna drop the motor in and HE can put the pan on when the motor is in hahaha
it can be done. Get a section of flat wood, and place under the jack, then jack up under oil pan. Wood serves to spread the load of the jack, so your jack doesn't bust through the pan.
once it's high enough, you should be able to shove blocks of wood under the motor mount and remove the jack from the pan. be sure it's secure, remove the motor mount if you have to for a flatter surface to put the wood blocks.
once it's high enough, you should be able to shove blocks of wood under the motor mount and remove the jack from the pan. be sure it's secure, remove the motor mount if you have to for a flatter surface to put the wood blocks.
I have had my house appraised several times since the re-financing boom. I would call the appraiser and talk with him beforehand. Most of them are pretty cool and overlook things like the grass needing to be cut and stuff that needs to be cleaned up. What they are looking for is the size of the house, the physical condition, the location, & what kind of houses are around you. Your car being torn up in the driveway isn't nearly as important as what shape your roof is in.jstang209 said:
Been there, done that - You can do it in the car, but it is hard to do. Disconnect the battery at the battery ground terminal, remove the fan and fan shroud. Both motor mounts will need to have the large nuts that secure them to the frame removed. The trans mount will also have to be loosened, and it is a good idea to remove the drive shaft.
I also had to disconnect the cat pipes at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. Be prepared to have to drop the steering rack and disconnect the steering shaft. Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan and watch for things that bind or hoses/electrical wiring that may need to be disconnected. I put a couple of wood blocks between the headers and the frame to support the engine. You will likely need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get the required clearance.
There is a one piece oil pan gasket which will help re-assembly if you can find it. If you can't get this gasket, use weather strip adhesive to secure the cork gasket to the pan rails and the rubber strips to the bearing caps. Read the instructions on the adhesive carefully to make sure the gaskets are permanently stuck in place and won't move when you slide the pan in place. Use lots of blue silicone sealer on top of the front and rear rubber seals where they mate with the pan.
I also had to disconnect the cat pipes at the headers to get the engine high enough to remove the oil pan. Be prepared to have to drop the steering rack and disconnect the steering shaft. Jack up the engine with a wood block under the oil pan and watch for things that bind or hoses/electrical wiring that may need to be disconnected. I put a couple of wood blocks between the headers and the frame to support the engine. You will likely need to jack up the rear of the transmission as well to get the required clearance.
There is a one piece oil pan gasket which will help re-assembly if you can find it. If you can't get this gasket, use weather strip adhesive to secure the cork gasket to the pan rails and the rubber strips to the bearing caps. Read the instructions on the adhesive carefully to make sure the gaskets are permanently stuck in place and won't move when you slide the pan in place. Use lots of blue silicone sealer on top of the front and rear rubber seals where they mate with the pan.