How hard to set timing?

yeaaaaa... timing is set by the computer.... and the cam gears are press fit on the cam..... sooo it takes a lot of technical expetise.....

it requires the removal of the fornt cover and aligning all 3 timing marks (crank and both cams) and making sure they alignafter a few rottions but it does need some mechanical know how

The link below may not work because of changes to the website now, replace the * with modular depot (but with no spaces), and you having the cam gears pressed on can make it a bit more of a headache getting the chains around gear. You have bolt-on gears - 96-98 and 01-04 romeo heads/cams - so it will make it a bit easier. The below info is for bolt-on cam gears like what you have...

Cam Installation and Timing:

http://www.************.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=32

Cam Installation and Timing:

http://www.************.com/?show=articlesdet&aid=32

Here is how I installed the cams in my own words:

First I got the pistons below the deck by pointing the crank keyway at 9:00, which is safe mode.

Then turn the cam gears to the position in the above cam timing article in Figure 1. The timing marks on the cam gear are recessed, which do not stick out. The driver side cam gear timing mark that do not stick out will be around the 2:00 position and the passenger cam gear timing mark that does not stick out will be around the 11:00 position.

Install cam bolts without the washers for now to turn the cams over, you will find out why later.

You can now turn the crank to top dead center (TDC) by turning the crank clockwise 45* from 9:00, or at the 10:30/315* position..

Install cam tensioner, cam tensioner guide, and the straight cam chain guide. Apply a small dab of loc-tite on those bolts if you would like.

Find two small paper clips and bend them out. Assuming your cam tensioner plunger is bled down, use some vice grips or a C-clamp that can compress the cam tensioner plunger into the housing. While it is compressed with the vice grips, push in the ladder ratchet and then get that small paper clip and install it in the smallest hole on the cam tensioner housing. It will hold the plunger in place, so you have more room to install your timing chain.

Install crank gears making sure the crank gear shoulders are facing each other.

Take your timing chain for each one and fold it in half. Mark the two opposite ends, making two total marks per chain. One mark will line up with the crank gear line on the gear which points at 6:00 when at TDC and the other mark that you made will line up with the recessed cam gear timing mark that does not stick out.

Grab the driver side timing chain and put a white-out mark on the crank gear at 6:00 and pull it up on the straight side of the timing chain and wrap it around the cam gear to line up the other white-out mark to the cam gear recessed mark. A good way to get the cam gears in the right position is to take the cam gear off the cam and install it in the chain and then reinstall the cam gear on the cam. Rotate the cam to the correct position slowly to get the cam gear installed.

With the cam bolt washer off, it allows you to do that. You can turn the cam and remove the cam gear this way.

The other side is the same.

Once you have the cam timing set, rotate your crankshaft two full times to make sure there is no piston to valve clearance problems.

Pull the paper clips out and torque the cam gears down with new bolts and washers installed and a dab of loc-tite.

Even is your timing is advanced or retarded, it should still run. It wont put down much power, but it should run. Sounds more like an air/fuel problem. Check to see that the IAC housing is screwed in tightly, and that there is a gasket behind there. Usually if that part is faulty, or loose, it will not idle for more than a second. Could be many other things, but thats what i would check. Also check to make sure that the hose(s) that run from the IAC into the intake tube are connected and not loose. Good luck

Also, if you cannot find the IAC, find a tube off the intake tubing.... and follow the one that leads to the metal piece attached to the front of the throttle body.

mustanggt3685 said:

Sorry to keep bringing this thread back up, but I believe my timing is off. I got the cam back in, but when I crank it over, I get a loud knocking noise and it dies after 30 seconds. Please tell me that this means the timing is off. The cam spins freely, but would it matter if I had the cam covers on too tight at one point? Just makin sure it's just a timing issue; thanks everyone!

Click to expand...

Tightening down the cam/valve covers isn't going to be the problem...

A knocking issue doesn't sound good, but don't panic yet...

As stated, check all lines and bolt-up areas to rule them out...

If need be, find a 96-98 4.6L SOHC in your area and ask the dealer/friend to see if you can take a look and compare all connections...

Knocking sounds like piston to valve contact. It could still have spun fairly free with a light amount of contact before the two.

Dont run it untill you figure out the issue.

Yeah, 1 RPM (by hand) is different than 800 RPM (engine at idle)...

The only other knocking thing I can think of is if you left a tool somewhere it shouldn't be...

I hope you don't have piston to valve contact...