How hard to swap out a-arms?

[yellowstang1994]

Hi guys, I feel that my balljoints are about to go bad really really soon. My steering wheel is giving me a really bad vibration on the highway too. Instead of buying regular balljoints and having to get them pressed in, I figured i'd get the 03 cobra a-arms with the higher end balljoints already pressed in for $150 and swap them out. (I'd still have to take off the a-arms to get the new balljoints pressed anyway). Which brings me to my ?. How hard is this job, i've never done it before. I'm pretty sure I know how it all goes, but I guess when your trying to put it all back together you just jack the a-arm up and try to compress the spring? How hard is it all and any tips for me? I know shops usually charge $400-$600 to change balljoints and tie-rod ends so right now I'd rather do the job myself.

 

[yellowstang1994]

no one?

 

[juiced_94gt]

if you have lowering springs it's not hard to take the spring in and out but if you have stock springs you will need a spring compressor that you can rent at autozone, you will also need a big breaker bar as those a-arn bolts are on there tight, even my 1,000 ft. lbs snap on impact could not break them loose, its not hard at all, just undo sway bay, undo tie rods (make sure you have a jack under the control arm,) lower the jack slowly then the tension will be off if you have stock springs you will need a big prybar and pry the bottom of the spring, if you dont then just push down on the arm and pull spring out. pm me if you need more tips but i think i covered it all.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Ok, I'm a pro at this as I did it a few times yesterday.

Air tools will make your life easier. In fact my top strut nut (15/16th) could only be removed with an impact. Without it the strut shaft spun with nut.

1 Jack the car up and put jack stands under it.

2 Remove the front wheels.

3 Remove the two 15MM bolts on the brake caliper bracket. Then zip tie the caliper out of the way. Take off the rotors at this point.

4 Remove the strut. With an impact gun remove the 15/16th nut at the top of the strut. At the bottom of the strut there is one 15/16th nut holding the ABS sensor bracket, remove it. There are two more 15/16th behind the ABS bracket you just removed at the bottom. You will need a 7/8 wrench to hold the one side. Remove both nuts, pull the bolts and now the strut is out.

5 ABS sensor bolt is very small. I believe it's a 1/4 12 point. Make sure you use a 12 point socket to remove it or it will strip then it will need to be drilled out.

6 Now you can work on the A arms. A 13/16th wrench on one side and a 15/16 socket on the other remove both nuts. Pull the bolts out of the A arm bushings. The A arm is out now.

7 Install your new A arms and reverse the process.

 

[yellowstang1994]

Sweet! Thanks for the help guys i got the eibach prokit and tokico shocks so it shouldn't be tooo hard then. Now the only question is, should i attempt to do tierod ends myself? Because I know they aren't good either, lol.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

I bought the Steeda bump steer kit (fancy shmancy tie rod ends) and will attempt to install them tomorrow.

 

[95strokerPSU]

Sweet! Thanks for the help guys i got the eibach prokit and tokico shocks so it shouldn't be tooo hard then. Now the only question is, should i attempt to do tierod ends myself? Because I know they aren't good either, lol.

Steeda's bumpsteer kit was very easy to install, but I would recommend an alignment after. I eyed mine up after the install, but I was still pretty off. To do the bumpsteer kit, I believe you're gonna need a 1 1/8" open ended wrench. Just thought I'd mention it cause I know I personally don't have anything that big, and I hate starting a project and then having to run down to the store.

Dave

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Steeda's bumpsteer kit was very easy to install, but I would recommend an alignment after. I eyed mine up after the install, but I was still pretty off. To do the bumpsteer kit, I believe you're gonna need a 1 1/8" open ended wrench. Just thought I'd mention it cause I know I personally don't have anything that big, and I hate starting a project and then having to run down to the store.

Dave

I was going to start a thread about this. Do you have pictures of it installed on the car? How are yours spaced? I'm eyeing mine up right now and I have three spacers at the bottom and three up top. The pictures I've seen don't show any spacers at the bottom of the bump steer kit. Makes me believe I'm not doing it right. I'm taking it to Steeda after the car is running for an alignment.

 

[95strokerPSU]

When I installed mine I put all of the spacers on top and the performance shop I took it to didn't move any, they just adjusted toe in, toe out. This is probably because I only have about a 1.3" front drop. I'd put them all on top, or maybe call Steeda tomorrow.

Dave

 

[swingline]

I bought the Steeda bump steer kit (fancy shmancy tie rod ends) and will attempt to install them tomorrow.

Why did you go with the Steeda over say the Griggs?


BTW, good write-up guys. I am getting ready to do some big-time suspension work so I can use all the help I can get.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Honestly I would have just purchased new stock tie rod ends. I damaged one of them taking the rack out. Since I'm in the automotive parts business I get deals on just about everything. The Steeda's look great and I didn't pay retail for them.

 

[juiced_94gt]

I was going to start a thread about this. Do you have pictures of it installed on the car? How are yours spaced? I'm eyeing mine up right now and I have three spacers at the bottom and three up top. The pictures I've seen don't show any spacers at the bottom of the bump steer kit. Makes me believe I'm not doing it right. I'm taking it to Steeda after the car is running for an alignment.

the REAL way to bumpsteer a car is with a bumpsteer gauge, you take the strut out and move the suspension through its operating range and monitor bumpsteer but most people dont' own the gauge which you can buy from mm for like $120.00 i think, but when doing in the drive way make sure that when the car is sitting at ride hight that the tie rods are parallel with the control arms and you will be fine. Do you have bumpsteer right now? because if you dont then you will be ok in installing like i said in the later.

 

[juiced_94gt]

When I installed mine I put all of the spacers on top and the performance shop I took it to didn't move any, they just adjusted toe in, toe out. This is probably because I only have about a 1.3" front drop. I'd put them all on top, or maybe call Steeda tomorrow.

Dave

WOW all the spacers on top? di you creat bumpsteer? the rods should look parallel to the control arms at ride hight. i will post pics, i need to buy a camera today.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Take some pictures because I'm a little confused on the configuration. I'm probably looking deeper into it though.

I have the stock end links on the stock rack right now. Like mentioned I damaged one when I was removing the rack. I figured why not just put this kit on since I got a good deal on it.

With all the spacers on top the bottom nut will not seal all the way. It runs out of threads. I haven't done it, I'm only eye balling it right now. I would think your suppose to make the bump steer kit into the identical paramaters as it sits right now. In other words, measure from the jam nut in width. Then measure from the top (where it goes into the spindle) down to the flat portion of the end link as height. Does this make sense?

 

[juiced_94gt]

Take some pictures because I'm a little confused on the configuration. I'm probably looking deeper into it though.

I have the stock end links on the stock rack right now. Like mentioned I damaged one when I was removing the rack. I figured why not just put this kit on since I got a good deal on it.

With all the spacers on top the bottom nut will not seal all the way. It runs out of threads. I haven't done it, I'm only eye balling it right now. I would think your suppose to make the bump steer kit into the identical paramaters as it sits right now. In other words, measure from the jam nut in width. Then measure from the top (where it goes into the spindle) down to the flat portion of the end link as height. Does this make sense?

yes, if your car isnt lowered more than 1.5 inch or have an aftermarket k-member then you are just trying to mimic the stock rods because there shouldnt be any bumsteer from just lowering 1.5 or less. nonetheless i will take pics of mine with stock k-member, eibach pro-kit