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How hot do you guys run on the hwy??Ge

  • Thread starter Thread starter DARK-5.0
  • Start date Start date Jan 25, 2006
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DARK-5.0

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Jan 25, 2006
#1
  • Jan 25, 2006
  • #1
Wondering how hot you guys run on the highway. I just finished up making a sheetmetal box frame that boxes in the radiator to the front bumper to force air to go through the radiator instead of around it like air wants to. Because just like electricity, air wants to travel the path with the least resistance, well i got rid of that path by making this frame. Now on the highway, granted it was about 45 degrees, but it barely hit the N in normal on the stock gauge. Just seeing how much of an improvement I made with it. Thats with a h.c.i. motor and long tubes and some spirited driving.

Jeremy
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
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alabama,gadsden
www.cardomain.com
Jan 25, 2006
#2
  • Jan 25, 2006
  • #2
you can see my signature and i run a 180 degree thermostat as required by chip. mine usually runs at the N but no matter how hard i run it never passes the M but how accurate are these guages
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
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DFW Texas
Jan 25, 2006
#3
  • Jan 25, 2006
  • #3
In the summer, about half way between the mark and straight up

In the winter, right next to the mark

Grady
 

jorge.pena

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Jan 25, 2006
#4
  • Jan 25, 2006
  • #4
Mine pretty much sits between tha N and the O, but I'm running a fluidyne radiator, most stock cars run a bit higher. the problem you have to watch out for is running to cold, 94-95 computers come on line around 160 degrees (coolant temp) If your temp doesn't get there you'll be running on warm up settings all the time.
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Jan 26, 2006
#5
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #5
Hmmm, the stock set up uses a pressure delta to get air across the coil. So you ram aired your radiator? Sounds interesting.

FWIW, you could put a puddle-jumper prop in front of the car and it should not significantly effect the running temps. The t-stat is what regulates the flow of coolant and temps of said coolant in the motor. Now having the water in the rad being super-cooled means that the stat will open, allow coolant to circulate, and close quicker (than if the coolant in the rad was warmer). But there is so much heat transfer occuring, by the time the coolant makes it back to the stat, it should be pretty consistant, assuming decent air flow of any sort. In the end, the cooler the water from the radiator, the less the duty cycle of the stat. It all balances out.

Do you have pics?
 

nmcgrawj

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Sep 28, 2003
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Jan 26, 2006
#6
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #6
Yea i would love to see pics too
 

R.J.

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Jan 26, 2006
#7
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #7
I am always between the N and O, with a stock radiator and 180deg thermo.
 

94GTLaserRC

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15 Year Member
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Jan 26, 2006
#8
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #8
45 degrees outside is NOT a good measuring tool...you need to test it when it's 90* outside.

Let us know then.

My temp creeps up on the hwy, mainly because of the Xenon front bumper, which blocks some air flow.

RC
 

S/CBlack95GT

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Apr 6, 2003
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Jan 26, 2006
#9
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #9
At 80 mph on a summer day (85+ degrees) mine runs around 195 with a 180 stat.
 

Killercanary

The car that set the bar.
Founding Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Altoona, PA
www.angelfire.com
Jan 26, 2006
#10
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #10
Mine used to run hot on the highway after putting on my xenon front bumper, but after I installed a universal summit rad the car runs cool. It never gets above 185* on my autometer gauge.

Jeremy, I'd LOVE to see some pics!

jorge.pena said:
94-95 computers come on line around 160 degrees (coolant temp) If your temp doesn't get there you'll be running on warm up settings all the time
Click to expand...

While I agree that you don't want to run too cold on the street, I can assure you that after literally hundreds o ftrack runs the colder I can run my car the track, the faster it'll go. There is 2-3mph difference from running it at 150* starting line temps versus 190-200* normal opperating temps which is where my car used to be around before I added my radiator.
 

Jackie Chan

I didn't read this.
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Oct 17, 2002
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Orlando, FL
Jan 26, 2006
#11
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #11
mine is at 180-185, manual fan and autometer guage, usually 195 without the fan on at hwy speeds(2400 rpms or so)
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
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Jan 26, 2006
#12
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #12
I haven't run over 185 degrees in about 5 years regardless of how hot it is outside. Fan on HIGH, 180 stat, Steeda aluminum radiator, 60/40 mix.
 
D

DARK-5.0

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Feb 20, 2002
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Jan 26, 2006
#13
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #13
Well I'm still running a stock radiator and stock thermostat so it used to get pretty hot under there with the long tubes after some good wot runs. The biggest difference is sitting in stop and go traffic, it never goes above the R anymore since the coolant circulated is cooled off so well, it never has a chance to get to boiling temps and sky rocket like it used to. I'll see if I have some pics of it before I installed it. You can't really see it now with the bumper on. I'm gonna rock the stock radiator for a little longer til I have some cash for a custom Ron Davis.

Jeremy
 
D

DARK-5.0

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#14
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #14
Just took some pics.





Jeremy
 

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D

DARK-5.0

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Jan 26, 2006
#15
  • Jan 26, 2006
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Sorry for the blurriness

Jeremy
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
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Jan 26, 2006
#16
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #16
Jeremy, didnt you have black plastic going down the sides before? I suppose it might not have gone forward far enough in your case. I get it now.

It doesnt look like you have the little air dam under the bumper. Contrary to what people post, in extreme heat (desert SW), I did notice a difference with or without it.

It looks like you did a nice job with it.

Good luck.
 

blksn955.o

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Mar 15, 2002
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st.louis mo 314
Jan 26, 2006
#17
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #17
I started running into a cooling issue several years ago and went with a 180*stat. On the hwy not realy an issue would stay at the N-O area. Come to a stop and the sucker would get hot FAST. It did boil over though one time on the hwy.

found a few things that seemed to help.

my ground from the block to chassis was bad...prob. the biggest help in sorting this out as it cleard' up a issue I had with intermit. fan outages.

The man fan mod..realy helped out with the stop and go stuff...I always felt it was a bandaid fix though.

Getting the tweecerR/T and setting the fan settings to jive with the 180*stat did absolute wonders. it runs between the N to O regardless at it max travel...then got a autometer guage it runs at about 192-3 by that (not quite at the 195 range or whatever that tic is), and my datalogs also jive/support that as it runs about 193 or so at its hottest.

Messing around one night with a diff. tune I went to a fairly bare bones tune that had NO fan setting corrections...I could see it getting/running a tad higher/hotter on the hwy than on the tune with fan corrections. I would turn it back to the modded fan setting tune and it would cool right off were it was before.

I think I am going to break down and get a summit rad. and have a shop get the mounts welded on after I test fit it and all that...prob. next year though.
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
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DFW Texas
Jan 26, 2006
#18
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #18
HISSIN50 said:
Jeremy, didnt you have black plastic going down the sides before? I suppose it might not have gone forward far enough in your case. I get it now.

It doesnt look like you have the little air dam under the bumper. Contrary to what people post, in extreme heat (desert SW), I did notice a difference with or without it.

It looks like you did a nice job with it.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

I hear that JT

I lost my little black flappy under the snout thing a few summers ago and my temps went up for sure.

Texas summers can be brutal

Grady
 

stprorolla49

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Oct 9, 2004
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Jan 26, 2006
#19
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #19
i run 210 all the time on my autometer with normal crusing....when i get on it for a pull or somethin it goes to 212 and the fans come on
 
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DARK-5.0

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Jan 26, 2006
#20
  • Jan 26, 2006
  • #20
Yeah, those black plastics you mentioned were long gone years ago. Thats what was causing my issues the most probably. But now I have these and they aren't going anywhere. I'd have to take the top support bar off before it even comes out. And like mentioned, its trimmed and cut to form to the core and bumper and the bumper cover so it has to go straight.

Jeremy
 
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