Current tires are 275/40/R17's on rear and 245/45/R17's on front. The Ford lowering springs "B" is one consideration that lowers between 1/2 to 1".Wow, fine line there, opinion, wheel/tire choice and size, ride, clearance all play a part. I would go here to see some examples
I like your ride just the way it is, I also like 1/2 to 1" lowered stangs as long as the wheels are not to big.
That’s the exact sizes I’m running in my picture a few posts up.Current tires are 275/40/R17's on rear and 245/45/R17's on front. The Ford lowering springs "B" is one consideration that lowers between 1/2 to 1".
That's helpful to know your tire sizes are the same and I'm assuming you have no rub issues? Would you be between 1 - 1 1/2 inch lower than factory? Your black rims contrast nicely with your red paint.That’s the exact sizes I’m running in my picture a few posts up.
I had the fox body rear sag before this, so it definitely helped lower the front more than the rear, but I’d say it probably came down about an inch.That's helpful to know your tire sizes are the same and I'm assuming you have no rub issues? Would you be between 1 - 1 1/2 inch lower than factory? Your black rims contrast nicely with your red paint.
I thought the Ford Motor Sport M-5300-B might be my best bet since the specs list a 0.875" front drop and 0.500" for the rear, but our local Performance Auto supply store advised my car my actually sit higher with these springs than it is currently is sitting as the original 34 year old springs likely have sagged some and in addition if I did get the drop as specified I may get rubbing with my current 275/40/R17 rear tires and 245/45/R17 front tires. Funny how a simple modification sometimes isn't too simple - well that is if you prefer to only do lowering springs once and get the height you want. The car does ride harder with these tires compared to original tire sizes, but does handle corners much better, however I'd prefer to not have it not handle too much harder as expansion joints on highways can have the car bang pretty loud with just a slight across the road imperfection. Weird it does this when the road imperfection is probably just 1/2 inch or so high, but you're hitting it around 60 - 70 MPH. I'm assuming most of this banging is due to the lower profile tires.Although probably hard to find today, l have 2001 Bullitt Struts, Springs, and Shocks on my car which dropped it about 3/4".
There are a lot of variables in play when it comes to choosing the right springs, shocks and struts. You've mentioned looks, handling, and ride quality in your posts. Trying to balance all of those elements will require sacrifices. Here are some basic guidelines:I thought the Ford Motor Sport M-5300-B might be my best bet since the specs list a 0.875" front drop and 0.500" for the rear, but our local Performance Auto supply store advised my car my actually sit higher with these springs than it is currently is sitting as the original 34 year old springs likely have sagged some and in addition if I did get the drop as specified I may get rubbing with my current 275/40/R17 rear tires and 245/45/R17 front tires. Funny how a simple modification sometimes isn't too simple - well that is if you prefer to only do lowering springs once and get the height you want. The car does ride harder with these tires compared to original tire sizes, but does handle corners much better, however I'd prefer to not have it not handle too much harder as expansion joints on highways can have the car bang pretty loud with just a slight across the road imperfection. Weird it does this when the road imperfection is probably just 1/2 inch or so high, but you're hitting it around 60 - 70 MPH. I'm assuming most of this banging is due to the lower profile tires.
Does anyone know anything about this company?
Ford Mustang Coilovers (1979-1993) | Raceland
Our Classic Ford Mustang coilovers are height-adjustable from 1 to 3 inches below stock height. They offer higher spring and damping rates over the stock suspension to improve your Mustang's stability, grip, and look - all backed by the best, hassle-free lifetime warranty in the business and...raceland.com
There are a lot of variables in play when it comes to choosing the right springs, shocks and struts. You've mentioned looks, handling, and ride quality in your posts. Trying to balance all of those elements will require sacrifices. Here are some basic guidelines:
1. When using a stock-style (NOT coil-over) suspension, these cars handle better when they sit higher than most people think looks cool. Going too low will make the car handle worse. I use Ford Racing C-Springs on my 1992 GT autocross car, with Steeda spring spacers up front. Going lower than 1" (especially without a spring spacer up front) will hurt the handling at the limit of traction.
2. Installing stiff aftermarket shocks and struts will make the car handle worse. Most aftermarket "performance" struts are stiffer than stock. Stiff shocks and struts, along with lower and stiffer springs, will bring the limit of traction further IN (you want the limit further OUT). Essentially, they add understeer and oversteer. I use adjustable shocks and struts on my 1992 GT, and they are set at "2" out of "5" (not very stiff). If I set the shocks and struts at "5", the car would be undriveable at the limit of traction (and that limit would be much further in).
3. Linear rate springs are better for performance driving, progressive rate springs are better on the street. Progressive springs soak up small bumps better.
4. Most people do not drive at the limit of traction (and they shouldn't on the street). It's very common for people to make their cars too low and too stiff, and not realize they've actually hurt the handling until they push the car hard (or have to make a quick evasive maneuver). How you intend to use the car is really important.
5. Your suspension mods all work together. And they all impact understeer and oversteer. Having some measure of adjustability, even for a street car, makes a big difference.
If your car is going to be a street car, I think the Ford Racing B-Springs are a good option. I would get a set of Steeda spring spacers, and poly spring isolators. I would recommend adjustable shocks and struts (Koni Yellow SA), and I'd install a larger rear sway bar to help counter the understeer from your staggered wheel and tire setup.
You also might find this video helpful:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HiS-t4_O_w&t
Thank you for your reply. I think I have some more learning to do before I can determine what is the best combo to give me a slightly lowered look, with improved handling with no tire rubbing and a ride that is not much harder than my current set up that also lessens those bangs at highway speed over slight road imperfections. Good luck to me eh?There are a lot of variables in play when it comes to choosing the right springs, shocks and struts. You've mentioned looks, handling, and ride quality in your posts. Trying to balance all of those elements will require sacrifices. Here are some basic guidelines:
1. When using a stock-style (NOT coil-over) suspension, these cars handle better when they sit higher than most people think looks cool. Going too low will make the car handle worse. I use Ford Racing C-Springs on my 1992 GT autocross car, with Steeda spring spacers up front. Going lower than 1" (especially without a spring spacer up front) will hurt the handling at the limit of traction.
2. Installing stiff aftermarket shocks and struts will make the car handle worse. Most aftermarket "performance" struts are stiffer than stock. Stiff shocks and struts, along with lower and stiffer springs, will bring the limit of traction further IN (you want the limit further OUT). Essentially, they add understeer and oversteer. I use adjustable shocks and struts on my 1992 GT, and they are set at "2" out of "5" (not very stiff). If I set the shocks and struts at "5", the car would be undriveable at the limit of traction (and that limit would be much further in).
3. Linear rate springs are better for performance driving, progressive rate springs are better on the street. Progressive springs soak up small bumps better.
4. Most people do not drive at the limit of traction (and they shouldn't on the street). It's very common for people to make their cars too low and too stiff, and not realize they've actually hurt the handling until they push the car hard (or have to make a quick evasive maneuver). How you intend to use the car is really important.
5. Your suspension mods all work together. And they all impact understeer and oversteer. Having some measure of adjustability, even for a street car, makes a big difference.
If your car is going to be a street car, I think the Ford Racing B-Springs are a good option. I would get a set of Steeda spring spacers, and poly spring isolators. I would recommend adjustable shocks and struts (Koni Yellow SA), and I'd install a larger rear sway bar to help counter the understeer from your staggered wheel and tire setup.
You also might find this video helpful:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HiS-t4_O_w&t
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?