Fox How low to go or not go? - Lowering springs.

[1987LX5.0]

I'm looking to replace my original 34 year old springs and struts/shocks. What in your opinion would look the best when considering lowering springs? Would you leave ride height as factory, lower between 1/2 to an inch, 1 1/2 inch or ? Picture is as car sits today.

 

[Rdub6]

I just went with Eibach Pro-kit springs, and MM adjustable rear control arms. I love where it sits right now. Not too low, but can definitely tell it’s lowered.

 

[General karthief]

Wow, fine line there, opinion, wheel/tire choice and size, ride, clearance all play a part. I would go here to see some examples

Post pics of how your foxbody currently sits

pics of how your foxbody currently sits

stangnet.com

I like your ride just the way it is, I also like 1/2 to 1" lowered stangs as long as the wheels are not to big.

 

[Mustang5L5]

I’m down about 1”- 1.5” but on coil-overs. Does make a difference in ride quality when you go that low.

 

[General karthief]

And there is a current discussion on ride height and stuff here:

Fox Body Shocks/Struts and Lowering Springs thoughts?

I have a 1987 LX 5.0 Hatch that has the original suspension components with Maximum Motorsports full length subframe connectors added. I'd like to replace the factory shocks/struts and consider swapping out factory springs for lowering springs but really I'm not interested in the slammed look...

www.stangnet.com

 

[1987LX5.0]

Wow, fine line there, opinion, wheel/tire choice and size, ride, clearance all play a part. I would go here to see some examples

Post pics of how your foxbody currently sits

pics of how your foxbody currently sits

stangnet.com

I like your ride just the way it is, I also like 1/2 to 1" lowered stangs as long as the wheels are not to big.

Current tires are 275/40/R17's on rear and 245/45/R17's on front. The Ford lowering springs "B" is one consideration that lowers between 1/2 to 1".

 

[Rdub6]

Current tires are 275/40/R17's on rear and 245/45/R17's on front. The Ford lowering springs "B" is one consideration that lowers between 1/2 to 1".

That’s the exact sizes I’m running in my picture a few posts up.

 

[1987LX5.0]

That’s the exact sizes I’m running in my picture a few posts up.

That's helpful to know your tire sizes are the same and I'm assuming you have no rub issues? Would you be between 1 - 1 1/2 inch lower than factory? Your black rims contrast nicely with your red paint.

 

[Rdub6]

That's helpful to know your tire sizes are the same and I'm assuming you have no rub issues? Would you be between 1 - 1 1/2 inch lower than factory? Your black rims contrast nicely with your red paint.

I had the fox body rear sag before this, so it definitely helped lower the front more than the rear, but I’d say it probably came down about an inch.
Fronts do rub on full lock, but normal driving is not an issue.
Thanks on the rims. I had the black/red theme in my head as soon as I started this build and it finally came to fruition!
Here’s the before and after. It’s the same paint, just different lighting, and a lot of polishing later.

 

[pavlos413]

I put a set of Steeda Lowering springs and matched them up with Kony Orange. I feel like it's not slammed and the ride is pretty comfortable. I was worried there might be some rubbing issues but nothing at all so far. I'm on my stock pony's though so not sure about different sets of rims.

https://lmr.com/item/ST-5558200/79-04-Mustang-Steeda-Sport-Lowering-Springs-Kit?token=b6fa93edb6667379202202a34c5a42156b6e1213&utm_source=yotpo&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=map

 

[Shakerhood]

Although probably hard to find today, l have 2001 Bullitt Struts, Springs, and Shocks on my car which dropped it about 3/4".

 

[Mustang5L5]

I actually loved how my Mach 1 springs (tiny bit taller than Bullitt springs) sat and rode. With good struts/shocks, i think they are almost the perfect spring for the fox.

I no longer run them, but I saved them just in case i ever get another Fox/SN95

 

[General karthief]

I would like to run Mach1 springs.
I wouldn't mind if the rest of the car is still attached

 

[1987LX5.0]

Although probably hard to find today, l have 2001 Bullitt Struts, Springs, and Shocks on my car which dropped it about 3/4".

I thought the Ford Motor Sport M-5300-B might be my best bet since the specs list a 0.875" front drop and 0.500" for the rear, but our local Performance Auto supply store advised my car my actually sit higher with these springs than it is currently is sitting as the original 34 year old springs likely have sagged some and in addition if I did get the drop as specified I may get rubbing with my current 275/40/R17 rear tires and 245/45/R17 front tires. Funny how a simple modification sometimes isn't too simple - well that is if you prefer to only do lowering springs once and get the height you want. The car does ride harder with these tires compared to original tire sizes, but does handle corners much better, however I'd prefer to not have it not handle too much harder as expansion joints on highways can have the car bang pretty loud with just a slight across the road imperfection. Weird it does this when the road imperfection is probably just 1/2 inch or so high, but you're hitting it around 60 - 70 MPH. I'm assuming most of this banging is due to the lower profile tires.

 

[Olivethefet]

Does anyone know anything about this company?

Ford Mustang Coilovers (1979-1993) | Raceland

Our Classic Ford Mustang coilovers are height-adjustable from 1 to 3 inches below stock height. They offer higher spring and damping rates over the stock suspension to improve your Mustang's stability, grip, and look - all backed by the best, hassle-free lifetime warranty in the business and...

raceland.com

 

[Warhorse Racing]

I thought the Ford Motor Sport M-5300-B might be my best bet since the specs list a 0.875" front drop and 0.500" for the rear, but our local Performance Auto supply store advised my car my actually sit higher with these springs than it is currently is sitting as the original 34 year old springs likely have sagged some and in addition if I did get the drop as specified I may get rubbing with my current 275/40/R17 rear tires and 245/45/R17 front tires. Funny how a simple modification sometimes isn't too simple - well that is if you prefer to only do lowering springs once and get the height you want. The car does ride harder with these tires compared to original tire sizes, but does handle corners much better, however I'd prefer to not have it not handle too much harder as expansion joints on highways can have the car bang pretty loud with just a slight across the road imperfection. Weird it does this when the road imperfection is probably just 1/2 inch or so high, but you're hitting it around 60 - 70 MPH. I'm assuming most of this banging is due to the lower profile tires.

There are a lot of variables in play when it comes to choosing the right springs, shocks and struts. You've mentioned looks, handling, and ride quality in your posts. Trying to balance all of those elements will require sacrifices. Here are some basic guidelines:

1. When using a stock-style (NOT coil-over) suspension, these cars handle better when they sit higher than most people think looks cool. Going too low will make the car handle worse. I use Ford Racing C-Springs on my 1992 GT autocross car, with Steeda spring spacers up front. Going lower than 1" (especially without a spring spacer up front) will hurt the handling at the limit of traction.

2. Installing stiff aftermarket shocks and struts will make the car handle worse. Most aftermarket "performance" struts are stiffer than stock. Stiff shocks and struts, along with lower and stiffer springs, will bring the limit of traction further IN (you want the limit further OUT). Essentially, they add understeer and oversteer. I use adjustable shocks and struts on my 1992 GT, and they are set at "2" out of "5" (not very stiff). If I set the shocks and struts at "5", the car would be undriveable at the limit of traction (and that limit would be much further in).

3. Linear rate springs are better for performance driving, progressive rate springs are better on the street. Progressive springs soak up small bumps better.

4. Most people do not drive at the limit of traction (and they shouldn't on the street). It's very common for people to make their cars too low and too stiff, and not realize they've actually hurt the handling until they push the car hard (or have to make a quick evasive maneuver). How you intend to use the car is really important.

5. Your suspension mods all work together. And they all impact understeer and oversteer. Having some measure of adjustability, even for a street car, makes a big difference.

If your car is going to be a street car, I think the Ford Racing B-Springs are a good option. I would get a set of Steeda spring spacers, and poly spring isolators. I would recommend adjustable shocks and struts (Koni Yellow SA), and I'd install a larger rear sway bar to help counter the understeer from your staggered wheel and tire setup.

You also might find this video helpful:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HiS-t4_O_w&t

 

[Boostedpimp]

Go coilovers with a quality strut/shock and have the adjustment/height you want plus it makes removal and install so much easier when needed.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Does anyone know anything about this company?

Ford Mustang Coilovers (1979-1993) | Raceland

Our Classic Ford Mustang coilovers are height-adjustable from 1 to 3 inches below stock height. They offer higher spring and damping rates over the stock suspension to improve your Mustang's stability, grip, and look - all backed by the best, hassle-free lifetime warranty in the business and...

raceland.com

They don't have a great reputation for riding well

 

[1987LX5.0]

Thank you f

There are a lot of variables in play when it comes to choosing the right springs, shocks and struts. You've mentioned looks, handling, and ride quality in your posts. Trying to balance all of those elements will require sacrifices. Here are some basic guidelines:

1. When using a stock-style (NOT coil-over) suspension, these cars handle better when they sit higher than most people think looks cool. Going too low will make the car handle worse. I use Ford Racing C-Springs on my 1992 GT autocross car, with Steeda spring spacers up front. Going lower than 1" (especially without a spring spacer up front) will hurt the handling at the limit of traction.

2. Installing stiff aftermarket shocks and struts will make the car handle worse. Most aftermarket "performance" struts are stiffer than stock. Stiff shocks and struts, along with lower and stiffer springs, will bring the limit of traction further IN (you want the limit further OUT). Essentially, they add understeer and oversteer. I use adjustable shocks and struts on my 1992 GT, and they are set at "2" out of "5" (not very stiff). If I set the shocks and struts at "5", the car would be undriveable at the limit of traction (and that limit would be much further in).

3. Linear rate springs are better for performance driving, progressive rate springs are better on the street. Progressive springs soak up small bumps better.

4. Most people do not drive at the limit of traction (and they shouldn't on the street). It's very common for people to make their cars too low and too stiff, and not realize they've actually hurt the handling until they push the car hard (or have to make a quick evasive maneuver). How you intend to use the car is really important.

5. Your suspension mods all work together. And they all impact understeer and oversteer. Having some measure of adjustability, even for a street car, makes a big difference.

If your car is going to be a street car, I think the Ford Racing B-Springs are a good option. I would get a set of Steeda spring spacers, and poly spring isolators. I would recommend adjustable shocks and struts (Koni Yellow SA), and I'd install a larger rear sway bar to help counter the understeer from your staggered wheel and tire setup.

You also might find this video helpful:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HiS-t4_O_w&t

There are a lot of variables in play when it comes to choosing the right springs, shocks and struts. You've mentioned looks, handling, and ride quality in your posts. Trying to balance all of those elements will require sacrifices. Here are some basic guidelines:

1. When using a stock-style (NOT coil-over) suspension, these cars handle better when they sit higher than most people think looks cool. Going too low will make the car handle worse. I use Ford Racing C-Springs on my 1992 GT autocross car, with Steeda spring spacers up front. Going lower than 1" (especially without a spring spacer up front) will hurt the handling at the limit of traction.

2. Installing stiff aftermarket shocks and struts will make the car handle worse. Most aftermarket "performance" struts are stiffer than stock. Stiff shocks and struts, along with lower and stiffer springs, will bring the limit of traction further IN (you want the limit further OUT). Essentially, they add understeer and oversteer. I use adjustable shocks and struts on my 1992 GT, and they are set at "2" out of "5" (not very stiff). If I set the shocks and struts at "5", the car would be undriveable at the limit of traction (and that limit would be much further in).

3. Linear rate springs are better for performance driving, progressive rate springs are better on the street. Progressive springs soak up small bumps better.

4. Most people do not drive at the limit of traction (and they shouldn't on the street). It's very common for people to make their cars too low and too stiff, and not realize they've actually hurt the handling until they push the car hard (or have to make a quick evasive maneuver). How you intend to use the car is really important.

5. Your suspension mods all work together. And they all impact understeer and oversteer. Having some measure of adjustability, even for a street car, makes a big difference.

If your car is going to be a street car, I think the Ford Racing B-Springs are a good option. I would get a set of Steeda spring spacers, and poly spring isolators. I would recommend adjustable shocks and struts (Koni Yellow SA), and I'd install a larger rear sway bar to help counter the understeer from your staggered wheel and tire setup.

You also might find this video helpful:


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HiS-t4_O_w&t

Thank you for your reply. I think I have some more learning to do before I can determine what is the best combo to give me a slightly lowered look, with improved handling with no tire rubbing and a ride that is not much harder than my current set up that also lessens those bangs at highway speed over slight road imperfections. Good luck to me eh?

 

[Habu135]

I have the Ford Motorsports B springs and have been very happy with the height.