How many people have broken their stock rears on DR's?

99StanGT · Jan 29, 2004

I've ran drag radials and full slicks on my 99 Gt with 4:10 gears. I haven't blownn my rear end yet. I guess it all depends on the driver and how aggressive u get. I could get the DR's to hook on the street better than they do at the track, and even then they dont hook the best. I ran slicks once at the track and that seems like it could do some major damage but it's all about how crazy u wanna get. The DR's were 17" nittos and they dont hook real well.....i had better time on the street than at the track. The 15/8/10.5 slicks now thats a ride!

JonJon · Jan 29, 2004

just some guy said:
yup, around a 5k launch, ...snap crackle and boom...bye bye axle...

slipping will save things but the only way to do better tha a 1.8 60' is to let it go...

Is it possible to cut lower than 1.8 60' by slipping DR's? I -don't- want to dump the clutch after I get DR's (for fear of breaking stuff) but if 1.8 is as low as you can go...

What about other people's experiences? Can you cut a lower 60' than 1.8 by slipping? I cut a 1.9s 60' on 225/55 snow tires by slipping.

ac1122 · Jan 29, 2004

I broke my spider gears after over 100 or so burnouts and numerous launches on the track and on the street...

I Usually pull 1.7x 60' on my 17 inch nitto drags...

just some guy · Jan 29, 2004

ac1122 said:
I broke my spider gears after over 100 or so burnouts and numerous launches on the track and on the street...

I Usually pull 1.7x 60' on my 17 inch nitto drags...

you can drive...you are one of the few that can pull 1.7s on nitto drags...

cuz everyone thinks they dont hook, so they dont do a big burnout and then they slip the clutch and pull mid 1.8s and say nittos dont hook...

jon, i do not believe it is possible to slip it and pull a 1.7X, you just do not have enough forward momentum, im sure some people do it, but they probably have a ton of power, or they are slipping it so fast it is equal to dumping it anyway

Pootiestang · Jan 29, 2004

OK then, these are all nightmare stories, so what are the options in ways of getting a good rear end built up? Im lookin at getting more serious about drag but I dont need my rear to go.

Slider · Jan 29, 2004

Pootiestang said:
OK then, these are all nightmare stories, so what are the options in ways of getting a good rear end built up? Im lookin at getting more serious about drag but I dont need my rear to go.

A new 31 spline rear will require at a minimum:
1) Gears -> $150 (you are in there you might as well do it)
2) HD Differential -> $190 (FMS) to $375 (Eaton)
3) Axles -> $250 (Superior)
4) ABS sensor wheels -> $40
5) Install ->$150 to $300

You could also add, but not 100% needed:
6) Differential Cover -> $150
7) Aluminum Driveshaft -> $150
8) Driveshaft loop -> $50
9) Install kit with all new bearings and seals -> $80
10) 3" racing studs -> $60

Other things that might need attention or upgraded:
11) Weld up torque boxes and axle tubes -> $25 to $100
12) New upper and lower control arms -> $250 to $500

Since I bent my axle I have decided to do all 12 Might as go all the way, and not waste extra time and money later to do it.

Does that help?

just some guy · Jan 29, 2004

Slider said:
8) Driveshaft loop -> $50

Does that help?

this is the most important thing you can do, when you race your car...

imagine this...the u joint at the front of the d/s breaks...causing your car to poll vault itself ....

ive seen it happen...get a d/s loop

Dallasgt01 · Jan 29, 2004

Add me to that list 4200 and dump ohh man that was like the worst feeling but it was fun

Pootiestang · Jan 30, 2004

Slider said:
A new 31 spline rear will require at a minimum:
1) Gears -> $150 (you are in there you might as well do it)
2) HD Differential -> $190 (FMS) to $375 (Eaton)
3) Axles -> $250 (Superior)
4) ABS sensor wheels -> $40
5) Install ->$150 to $300

You could also add, but not 100% needed:
6) Differential Cover -> $150
7) Aluminum Driveshaft -> $150
8) Driveshaft loop -> $50
9) Install kit with all new bearings and seals -> $80
10) 3" racing studs -> $60

Other things that might need attention or upgraded:
11) Weld up torque boxes and axle tubes -> $25 to $100
12) New upper and lower control arms -> $250 to $500

Since I bent my axle I have decided to do all 12 Might as go all the way, and not waste extra time and money later to do it.

Does that help?

Awsome! Thanks for the information, that should be a great help! I already have 4.10s so thats a bit off the price, but I might as well get all the stuff before I have it installed. Where exactly are the torque boxes on a Mustang? Id love to get them enforced hehe but I dunno where they are.

Slider · Jan 30, 2004

Pootiestang said:
Awsome! Thanks for the information, that should be a great help! I already have 4.10s so thats a bit off the price, but I might as well get all the stuff before I have it installed. Where exactly are the torque boxes on a Mustang? Id love to get them enforced hehe but I dunno where they are.

They are the brackets that the control arms bolt to. They are only spot welded, and with enough abuse they can start to break away from the car. The axle pretty much has to be removed to do the top ones, and the lower control arms need to be moved out of the way for the lower ones. That is why I said you might as well do all this stuff at once. I have some pics at home. If I get time I will post them.

Red2000GT · Jan 30, 2004

I've got one season on my stock tranny and rear end. Dumping the clutch at 5500rpm,on nitrous,with 26x8.5x15 slicks. No problems to speak of. I'm more worried about the tranny than the rear end.

98CobraT66'd · Jan 30, 2004

Just remember....drag radials are not as forgiving as slicks. The sidewalls are stiff as hell to make them driveable on the street. My buddy broke an Auburn pro 31 spline diff on drag radials. But he was also laying down @ 400 HP and was doing a 4500 rpm launch. He had Motorsport axles and girdle. IMO the best thing to do is get a set of cheap v6 wheels and a set of slicks. Bolt them on at the track and you're good to go.

StangLou · Jan 30, 2004

One thing people dont think of is that you dont always have to go to 31 spline axles. They make 28 splines that are hardened and will take all the abuse you want to throw at it with dr's . They arent good for up to as many hp as 31 splines are, but they will do the job for most strong street setups

Dreams2Reality · Jan 30, 2004

Well after reading all this it looks like i'm going to have to invest in a couple more things before i get 10.5 bullitt rims and the 315/35/17 nittos to match.

Well now that i'm officially depressed, i'd like to say thanks for all the info guys

JonJon · Jan 30, 2004

StangLou said:
One thing people dont think of is that you dont always have to go to 31 spline axles. They make 28 splines that are hardened and will take all the abuse you want to throw at it with dr's . They arent good for up to as many hp as 31 splines are, but they will do the job for most strong street setups

Is there compelling reason to get 28 instead of 31? Like hundreds of $?

just some guy · Jan 31, 2004

dude, you can get superior 31 splines for 250, or mosiers for 230...

pps.only about 50% of the people break them at the splines(where the 28 vs 31 thing counts) the other people will break axles right before or where it goes to the hub thing.

Jackie Chan · Jan 31, 2004

my spider gears broke and carrier pin shot out taking down my ring and pinion after about 100+ 1.7x 60's and 50+ 1.8 60's. All 4000-5500rpm launches. I plan to a build up with 4.30s/31 splines before too long. The stock stuff is strong, unless you are really going to beat the **** out of it(like I did/will do), you should be fine. The funny thing is mine finally broke when I hit third gear. I truly abuse my car like its someone elses though

Red2000GT · Jan 31, 2004

JonJon said:
Is there compelling reason to get 28 instead of 31? Like hundreds of $?

Yes it is alot cheaper to run 28 spline because you don't have to convert your carrier over. You can just buy the axles and throw them in. Factor in the cost of ther axles AND the carrier(by carrier i mean everything inside the pumpkin). It'a about 1/3 the price of a 31 spline swapover.

JonJon · Jan 31, 2004

Red2000GT said:
Yes it is alot cheaper to run 28 spline because you don't have to convert your carrier over. You can just buy the axles and throw them in. Factor in the cost of ther axles AND the carrier(by carrier i mean everything inside the pumpkin). It'a about 1/3 the price of a 31 spline swapover.

Aah, gotcha.

Slider · Jan 31, 2004

Red2000GT said:
Yes it is alot cheaper to run 28 spline because you don't have to convert your carrier over. You can just buy the axles and throw them in. Factor in the cost of ther axles AND the carrier(by carrier i mean everything inside the pumpkin). It'a about 1/3 the price of a 31 spline swapover.

Yeah, that is an option, but if you are serious about drag racing the diff will give out. I had the one wheel spin thing which required me to repack the clutches. That is probably the biggest problem with the stock diff. Also, as stated above the spider gears can let go. It all depends on what you want to do with your car. I race my car hard, so if I am going to upgrade the rear I am going to do it right the first time.

How many people have broken their stock rears on DR's?

99StanGT

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JonJon

ac1122

just some guy

Pootiestang

That's MISTER boy to you!

Slider

just some guy

Dallasgt01

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Pootiestang

That's MISTER boy to you!

Slider

Red2000GT

98CobraT66'd

StangLou

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Dreams2Reality

JonJon

just some guy

Jackie Chan

I didn't read this.

Red2000GT

JonJon

Slider

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How many people have broken their stock rears on DR's?

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