How much difference will subframe connectors make?

9 Deuce GT

Member
Dec 10, 2003
550
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Geneva, NY
Excuse me for sounding like a NOOB, but the search funtcion results didn't answer my questions.

I am getting subframe connectors installed Sunday. How much of a difference can I expect from a rigidity standpoint? I mean, how much better will this make the suspension work? Will it be a harsh ride or better ride now that the suspension will be able to do it's job? I would like to get the chassis to feel solid, and am affraid that a cage is the only way to truly do this. The car just feels sort of sloppy chassis wise and I hate it.

On a side note, how are the SN95 cars able to ride so much better than the Fox body when it has basically the same unibody? I understand that the trunk/coupe style of the SN95 cars helps strengthen the chassis, but they just seem to ride better all the way around.
 
ryan218 said:
get ready............
No matter what he says, he's not a NOOB, and his questions are taken seriously... :)

My personal experiance with my 83 GLX Vert was without subframes, the passanger door wouldn't close without lifting up on it... with.. it closed fine. They really help with the rigidity of the chassis. Well worth the money. One of the first mods that should be done to any Mustang and should be the first.

Even though the SN95 is still a "Fox" Ford added a lot more bracing throughout the car to make it that much better. Also, the SN-95s added a lot of strength in getting rid of the huge hole in the rear, ie. Hatch.
 
9 Deuce - What sub frames are you doing? Here's my input for what it is worth:

I originally did the Kenny Brown super subs and welded them on. The difference was amazing and helped the car hook a lot better. However, now that I am all geared up on suspension improvements I HAVE to get them cut off and some full lengths installed. Why? because I plan on doing a MM TA and the Kenny Browns can't handle the load of the TA. My suggestion is to seriously consider some MM full lengths (or Global West) that can support a TA even if you have no intention of installing one right now. When i did my subs many years ago I had no idea what a TA was and now I wish I could go back and just do the full lengths from the get go. Good luck.
 
ryan218 said:
get ready............


Get ready for what? A bashing or the new ride quality of a newly subframed car?

Seriously, I have only ridden in one other Fox with subframes, and that was a loooong time ago. I currently have MM Bilstein coilovers in the front and H&R race springs in the back. The ride quality is great, but the center section feels like a accordian. At least that's how I visualize it. It's not a complete wreck, but still spongy. Too spongy for me. I am wondering if the subframes completely cure this or will I need a cage? What I am looking for is a totaly rigid chassis that allows the coilovers and Bilsteins to do what I paid$$$$ for them to do.
 
I've put subframe connectors on a few different cars, i'm actually getting a set installed on my current stang on Tuesday. Every time i've noticed a huge difference. I've used KB double-cross, steeda, and my brother has MM full lengths.

You will notice the difference
 
Tunedin:

Now you have got me rethinking this. I just called MM and they said their standard length would work fine with a T/A, but the full length give a night and day strength difference. Of course, I have the standard length. I plan to get the T/A in the future.

The problem is, I already have the appointment set up and it is a hassle to get everyone coordinated to get these welded in. LOL. We'll see. If it falls through, I get the full length.
 
I am not one to doubt MM but I would be hesitant to run a HD TA with standard length subs. I suppose I would feel more comfortable running the SD TA with standard lengths but again ... you are in a great position because you can do it the right way from the start. Just think about it ;)
 
Before I installed mine, I could place my fingers along the door frame near the roof and feel the door move seperate from the body of the car. Now I can't. tunedin has a great idea on the full length sfc's. I will most likely go that route in the future.

Regardless of which way you go, they help a lot!!
 
PoopDawg said:
No matter what he says, he's not a NOOB, and his questions are taken seriously... :)

My personal experiance with my 83 GLX Vert was without subframes, the passanger door wouldn't close without lifting up on it... with.. it closed fine. They really help with the rigidity of the chassis. Well worth the money. One of the first mods that should be done to any Mustang and should be the first.

Even though the SN95 is still a "Fox" Ford added a lot more bracing throughout the car to make it that much better. Also, the SN-95s added a lot of strength in getting rid of the huge hole in the rear, ie. Hatch.


didnt mean it like that. i ment it to be like a get ready for the difference it will make becasue it is huge. duh
 
9 Deuce GT said:
Get ready for what? A bashing or the new ride quality of a newly subframed car?

Seriously, I have only ridden in one other Fox with subframes, and that was a loooong time ago. I currently have MM Bilstein coilovers in the front and H&R race springs in the back. The ride quality is great, but the center section feels like a accordian. At least that's how I visualize it. It's not a complete wreck, but still spongy. Too spongy for me. I am wondering if the subframes completely cure this or will I need a cage? What I am looking for is a totaly rigid chassis that allows the coilovers and Bilsteins to do what I paid$$$$ for them to do.


no get ready for the huge difference it is going to make. :nice:
 
310stanger said:
9 deuce gt, off topic. your car is effin sweet dude.

Thanks. Here's a few pics, if you care......

Wow, looking at these pics, I really need to lower the front more. The drive way is not level, but come on, what am I thinking?:nonono:
512479_81_full.jpg

512479_82_full.jpg

512479_83_full.jpg
 
I bought Steeda full lengths mostly because I liked the torque box reinforcements and they looked like a copy of MM (which everyone recommends). I dunno if it does much but I was having them fixed and straighted and I figured they would help keep cracks from coming back (with the help of generic battle boxes).

Anyway it was like night and day. The car was never a rattle trap but you could tell there was a difference. Even handling improved.

Only thing is that the Steeda connectors have small holes cut in the front and rear, I guess to keep water from getting in and pooling. I'm just nervous that they may rust from the inside anyway. Anyone have any recommendations? I was thinking of just spraying some light oil in every now and again. I'm afraid that if I seal the drain holes I may trap moisture in.