how much do you have to replace in a 150,000 mile car?

[fordraceing_man]

just curiuos when you get a 15 year old car with 150k on it and plan to make it fast and mod the heck out of it im sure a lot of things need to be replaced, so if thats the deal does it really matter how many miles are on it when you get it?

 

[Strype]

just curiuos when you get a 15 year old car with 150k on it and plan to make it fast and mod the heck out of it im sure a lot of things need to be replaced, so if thats the deal does it really matter how many miles are on it when you get it?

Depends on what's broke

I'd say tranny probably won't take much more. And ummmm...

Rear End needs freshened up
Water pump
Radiator
Thermostat
Belts
Hoses
Exhaust
Rear Main Seal
TPS
IAB
Power Steering Pump

Tune Up and probably a new Distributor as well

 

[90blacknight]

Modding the heck out of it? Could get very expensive. Forced induction would pretty much mean rebuilding the block, new heads, etc, etc.

 

[PJB]

Most stuff Id leave alone until it showed signs of breaking or wearing out.
You dont need to just throw parts at it.

Chances are that alot of that stuff has already been replaced due to the age and mileage.

 

[Strype]

Most stuff Id leave alone until it showed signs of breaking or wearing out.
You dont need to just throw parts at it.

Chances are that alot of that stuff has already been replaced due to the age and mileage.

:Word:

 

[Modular2v]

Do a compression test on the motor to see what kind of condition its in

 

[Snikt89GT]

Do a compression test on the motor to see what kind of condition its in

Dumb question, how do you do that? Is there a gauge or how-to on this somewhere?

I'd be curious since I have a 133k stock shortblock

 

[MikeC]

I just did my 130K 5.0 today. All readings were between 150 to 160 psi. Plugs all looked great. All you need is a screw in compression gauge. Take out the plugs, screw the tool in one hole at a time and turn over the engine with the throttle open. Move to the next hole. Don't forget to un-clip the small two wires going to the coil.

 

[HISSIN50]

I'd add: for a compression test:

Have a hot engine.
Disable the fuel system and ignition.
Prop the throttle wide open.
Remove all plugs.
Put a charger on the battery for consistancy.
Do a dry and then wet test for each cylinder.

I'm sure you can find some write-ups in here (I've seen some and typed out some myself. I'm too lazy to retype the same stuff again). I think Jrichker might have a post where he outlines the procedure.

Good luck.

 

[new46stang]

I have recently picked up a 91 hatch/AOD with 144k mi. and after driving it for a couple weeks and looking it over here is the work I put into mine. Some items needed to be replaced, others you just normally do when you buy a used car.

Where to begin...I'll start at the rear.


Drain and fill on the rear end...wow 3.27s in there!
Upper axle-side bushings
Rear brake shoes
Tranny fluid and filter
Water pump
P/S Pump
FMS hose kit
Serpintine belt
Cap/Rotor/Plugs
Oil Change
Flushed radiator (really good)
Master cylinder
Flushed brake fluid
Front swaybar bushings
Front Struts / Topend strut bushings
FMS C-Springs (was optional, didn't need it)
Cleaned IAC and MAF
TPS Sensor
Replaced all A/C hoses and Accumulator/Charged with 134a
Air Filter
Canister purge valve (only code the cpu was throwing!)
Iginition switch
New tires
Cleaned, cleaned, everything in and out

I think that's about it. After doing all the above I considered it a mechanically sound daily driver.

--Matt

 

[71swing]

I'm for the compression too. it will give a good idea of how much life is left in it.

The first things I always replace its the stock ignition parts like cap & rotor, you would also replace the plugs at the same time as the compression check. I also like to replace the p/s fluid with Lucas p/s fluid, and a oil change for sure.

I replace those right away. Anytime I purchase a used car, normally just stop and pick those items up on the way home from picking the used car up.

But if you are looking for a parts list that normally needs replace with that type of mileage, the only thing that I can think of that went out on all my mustangs was the starter relay on the driver side fender. Each car had it own problems, but the relay has gone out on all of them at some time.

 

[TrophyHead]

Out of everything that I replaced on my car. Nothing was worse than my rear upper control arm bushings. Chassis end.

Replace all the fluids. Tune-up and drive it. Dont fix what's not broke. Unless you want to upgrade some stuff.

 

[90_Red_LX]

I'd add: for a compression test:

Have a hot engine.
Disable the fuel system and ignition.
Prop the throttle wide open.
Remove all plugs.
Put a charger on the battery for consistancy.
Do a dry and then wet test for each cylinder.

I'm sure you can find some write-ups in here (I've seen some and typed out some myself. I'm too lazy to retype the same stuff again). I think Jrichker might have a post where he outlines the procedure.

Good luck.

Whats a dry and wet test? I never heard of that before. Just curious because I'll probably comp test mine before I slap on some heads and cam.

 

[HISSIN50]

Whats a dry and wet test? I never heard of that before. Just curious because I'll probably comp test mine before I slap on some heads and cam.

You do the test as you normally do (dry). Then add a tiny bit of motor oil down the spark plug hole and retest (wet). If compression goes up a bit during the wet test, that indicates the ring seal isnt as good as it could be.

Good luck.