How much for clutch/flywheel install what else do i need?

kstang69

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Aug 14, 2003
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Hey i just bought a centerforce df clutch and a fidanza aluminum flywheel

wanted to know what else i will be needing for the install, some people were talking about pivot ball and clutch fork, do i need these??? and how much are these etc. i dont think the clutch comes with a throwout bearing either...how much/where to get this from.

ALSO, how much should it be to get these installed...I was planning on getting a friend to help that has put a clutch on a civic but doesnt know much about mustangs...so i am having second thoughts about letting him help me.

Thanks
 
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Roger_4.6_96

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Shops charge anywhere from $250 - $350. Your clutch fork should already be installed on your transmission. Yes you should get throw out bearing with your clutch.
 

Mike97gt

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the install price depends on location. 350 would be resonable. anything less is great.

and yes I would replace the pivot ball, TOB and clutch fork. you do need them, it is foolish to have the tranny down install 600 dollars in clutch parts and be cheap and not spend the 60 bucks or so to replace the TOB, fork and pivot ball.

just so you usderstand why i think it is so important to repalce these parts. here is a list of what they do

1. TOB.... this is a bearing that rides on the clutch fork and "pushes' against the presure plate when you push down on the clutch pedal. the TOB often fails and makes a chirping sound when your foot is not on the clutch. it can also wear into presure plate or the front bearing retainer when it fails.

2. clutch fork... this part is what the clutch cable attaches too. when you push down the clutch pedal the fork moves and the TOB then pushes the presure plate so the clutch releases. it is common for the joint where it meets with the pivot ball to become worn and fail, when this happens you have to remove the trans to repair.

3. pivot ball... this 10 dollar part is where the clutch fork attaches to and alows the fork to pivot. when this part starts to get grooves in it you will have a very hard clutch pedal. this will continue untill the ball is won off and the fork comes free. any of these repairs require trans removal.

So why would you leave three cheap parts that are common failure points in when you are paying to drop the trans, there is no extra labor to replace these parts since the trans is already down and they slide right on in 2 minutes.

the way I look at it you can save 60-70 bucks now and then in 6 months be slapping yourself when you have to pay to have the trans taken down again.
 

Mike97gt

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kstang69 said:
oh..and where should i buy these from...the throwout bearing, clutch fork, and pivot ball....or can i just pick them up from the shop where i get install?

I would get the TOB from centerforce, they recomend there TOB with the DF. the fork and pivot ball can be found online or at a ford dealer.
 

gvr4ever

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Mar 15, 2006
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Be sure you have a clutch alignment tool. CF should send you one with your kit, but you want to have that before you start a install. It makes for mating the trans back on way easier. You should be able to get this part from Napa, Ford, ect and shouldn't cost much more then $5

I'd attempt the intall yourself. If you've done it on a i4 fwd and AWD before, a RWD should acually be easier. You only have to deal with the driveshaft and a tranny brace, and clutch cable I think. Much less hassle then a crowded i4 engine bay and usually not as many steps.

A Mustang cluch swap would be a walk in the park compared to my car!
 

Barrier

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May 11, 2005
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If you've got time, I'd definitely do it yourself and save 350 bucks... it's not very hard, just time consuming. A haynes manual, though it reroutes you a lot, will give you step-by-step instructions.

The only things that were especially difficult were:

1. That damn 3rd starter bolt... you might want to get a set of shorty wrenches to save you some hassle.

2. Being the bolts connecting the tranny to the bellhousing are on the inside of the bellhousing you have to take them down together, and if you don't have another jack to push up on the front of the engine the underbody gets in the way of sliding the transmission back from the pressure plate... had a bit of a time there.

Oh, and remember when you're sliding the tranny back up into place it won't go flush against the plate... there'll be about a quarter to a half an inch left between them. No worries though, just start the tranny bolts in and tighten em down and it'll go flush.

That's about it that I can think of... Just come back to the board if ever you get stuck.
 
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