how much horsepower?

Where did you get the $600 quote from? Where I work would problably charge $1500. Thats with disassebly, valve job, portwork, clean up mill, setting the valve heights, and assembly. I could do the heads for around $900 depending on how much work is needed. Then for the intake it depends on what it looks like. Anywhere from $100-200. If you stayed na I dont see a problem with the 30 lb injectors they may be one the small side but Im not a pro tuner either.

I personally feel like most of the advice in this thread, while good-natured, is terrible. There's some good stuff, but these guys are trying to get you to spend thousands on new heads, a blower, etc... when you've already got some great parts, twisted wedge heads are awesome and they're already on the car. Is the combo ideal? No. Are your goals achievable on a budget? Absolutely. In fact, you're very close, already. Don't get wrapped around what other people want to build and focus on how to get the best bang for your buck.

Your intake and heads are a decent match. Toss your cam, because it doesn't match, and go custom (~$350 + gaskets and any other parts that need freshening). Talk to any custom cam guy already recommended and they will help you lay out anything else that needs to be done with the valve train.

10.5:1 is a high compression for a blower or turbo. You can slap one on there and run very limited boost, but it's not going to be very satisfying knowing that you're hindered by the compression you're running. Nitrous, however is a great choice because it's compression friendly. The cooling effect provided will prevent detonation. The great part is that you won't be hindered by the combination you already have. A change of jets will allow you to add more nitrous if you decide to get aggressive. The combination of parts you've got should put you around 310-350 at the wheels depending on how aggressive a cam you choose. Everybody thinks they want a race car, but are usually happier with a streetable car with a little less power. A 100-150 shot of the sauce is going to put you right at your goal, and it's a very conservative amount of spray when properly tuned. A good nitrous system with the safety switches (window and hobbes), blow-out valves etc... should run you no more than $1500. Or you can find the stuff used for as little as $500. Between the cam and the nitrous kit, you're going to spend no more than $2,000. A tune should cost $500 or less. Now, you've got a car that'll make enough power to run with the Z06 vettes. The question at this point will be if your suspension and drivetrain are up to task. If so, you're all set.

Why go with new heads, intake, blah blah blah when a little forced induction can already max the limits of the block out? If you really feel like doing all that work on porting the heads, wait until it's time to pull the motor apart for a rebuild. $600 is about the going rate for a good port job.

I really feel your friend, other than picking the wrong cam, didn't do a bad job in his part selection. Trick flow stuff is right up there with the best aftermarket brands out there.

Chris

Great info FastDriver! I was going to mention something along the same lines hinting towards the fact that, other than the cam, you have some great parts. Honestly, if it were me I'd change the cam, get a really good tune, then focus on getting the rest of the car set up. I'd be willing to bet with some sticky tires on 15" rims, a good set of upper and lower control arms, and some good shocks, struts, and springs, you could almost hit your 11.50 goal.

Paul (KillerCanary), is running 11.50 in a heavy '95 vert with this combo:

-Dart sportsman 331ci 9:1 compression
-AFR 185 competition heads
-FTI cam from my old stock shortblock combo
-probe shaft mount rockers
-TMOSS ported Holley Systemax intake
-75mm fox TB
-30lb injectors
-190lph pump
-ASP pulleys
-MAC 1-3/4" long tubes
-Dr. Gas 3" into 2.5" X pipe
-2.5" cat back with dynomax welded ultraflow mufflers
-AEM ECU tuned by me
-TKO trans
-4.10 gears

Now, while he has some different parts than you, I'm thinking you probably wont be too far off with a different cam since you also have higher compression.

This is just the first example that came to mind, and while he does have a Dart block which probably contributes to helping him make some serious n/a power, his combo probably isn't that far off from yours.

Like some others have said, I would take a step back and think about what you really want to do with the car. Doing the suspension up right and getting some sticky tires will only help you put the power to the ground, no matter what changes you decide to make in the future to the powerplant.

Good luck with the decisions, you've got a great group of fellas in here that are very knowledgeable!

I guess I'm one of the peeps in this thread who have been giving
terrible advice

I saw the original concern being ...............
I want 500 hp at the motor

I did not ever see how good can I get with what I got

Yes ... The heads and intake are more suited to each other than
the cam

never the less .................

A different cam with those parts won't yield 500

Grady

If you want to get the most power for the buck spent then that would
be a whole different story as I see it

Sure ... I'd then go along with what has already been said by others

Stay with the NA method

First thing to think about is the end result of different levels of power

Lets stick with RWHP since most relate to that cause of dyno pulls

500 motor is around 425 at the wheels

I will filter this post around what I know to be fact with NA combos and
drivability.

When I talk of drivability I speak in terms of your modified Stang driving
just like a little stocker with the exception of cam lope

NO stalling ... NO bucking ... NO unstable idle

NONE of that stuff you see peeps talk about with a combo that is more
serious than just ... simple bolt on stuff

We have had MANY peeps on this very forum make 1 hp per ci and have
such of an outcome when talking drivability issues

Of Course ... we are talking about a custom tune here

So with your combo you are looking at 331 at the wheels

This is based upon ALL parts being well suited to each other

I can't say anything about that cam but from what others have said .........
you might not have the best cam ... but ... generally speaking ...........

I'd say a ballpark level of power would be 331 to 350 with very good
drivability

You might be able to go up to 375 but I would guess that is about the
limit for really good drivability

Now ... if you just gotta have that additional 50 to 75 hp

You can go more radical with NA methods but it ain't gonna behave
like a little stocker

More power can be had with PA and you can avoid a lot of the issues
with dirvability but of course ... your cost will go up

There is the juice if you wanna deal with the bottle and all

Blower or Turbo is always there with more cost than the juice

The thing about going PA with your current setup is

Going over 450 puts you knocking on the door of block splitting power

Just more stuff for you to think about

Grady