I already did some grinding, but not enough... the clips are still catching when I try to turn the distributor to time the engine. Is there much risk of grinding through anywhere?
How much meat does the Weiand Stealth have to it (need to grind for distributor fit)?
- Thread starter SadbutTrue
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S-Car-Go
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Sounds like you stabbed the distributor wrong if you have to grind on the intake... I've got a stealth w/o issue. If I were to turn it too far it would hit. You might be off a tooth or two.
whast the easiest/still effective way of making sure the distributor is stabbed right? we had some tape lined up on the intake/dist. and we tried to line that up, but that apparently didn't work well enough (and that old intakes gone anyway)?
wish i could take it to someone in SoCal and just pay a few hundred to get this headache out of the way, lol
wish i could take it to someone in SoCal and just pay a few hundred to get this headache out of the way, lol
Remove cap, mark on distributor where rotor is, remove distributor, then rotate and install distributor in new position making sure the mark lines up once the distributor is fully seated. Relation to manifold does not matter as long as rotor is at the right place relative to the cap and the wires have enough slack to allow timing adjustments.
A few hundred for 10 minutes of work? Too bad you don't live near me.
A few hundred for 10 minutes of work? Too bad you don't live near me.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
I'm a lot closer to Thousand Oaks than you are. 
That's what I was going to say. It doesn't matter what position the distributor is in as long as you can get the timing right without it hitting anything.
That's what I was going to say. It doesn't matter what position the distributor is in as long as you can get the timing right without it hitting anything.
Remove cap, mark on distributor where rotor is, remove distributor, then rotate and install distributor in new position making sure the mark lines up once the distributor is fully seated. Relation to manifold does not matter as long as rotor is at the right place relative to the cap and the wires have enough slack to allow timing adjustments.
A few hundred for 10 minutes of work? Too bad you don't live near me.
I could bring it up to the bay area at some point, I'll be road tripping up for Cal games (not usually in the mustang, but i could get it as close as I can then bring it up and let someone else dial her in the rest of the way... need to break it in anyway
). But yeah, never mind, the dist. position relative to the intake makes sense now, dumb question. Sometimes I tend to just ask questions as they pop up without thinking about it first...
nick6690
Member
my brother had the same problem but he just bought a mallory distributor and it fit fine. do you have the stock distributor?
Rusty67
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Dood, stop breaking your car !
Want me to stop by Saturday on my way back home and take a look at it ?
Want me to stop by Saturday on my way back home and take a look at it ?
Haha, I haven't broken it!! It drives (too well, i think, for there to be anything major wrong... *knock on wood*), I just need to time the thing and get it running right. I'm pretty sure if I have time this weekend I could do it myself, but I always appreciate the help!
Besides, we need to get a beer at some point, so definitely stop by. The thing sounds like a monster, I can't wait to actually take her above 3,000 rpms. The flowmasters are definitely a bit over the top, though. At about 2300 rpm it sounds like death incarnate driving down the road (in a good way).
When would you be free this weekend? I was thinking of going paintballing saturday, but eh... not completely sure I wanna go anyway. Getting my car running right would be an ideal excuse/alternative.
Took it out today with Jeff (Rusty67), did some minor timing adjustments and it felt pretty good.
Few things...
1) It still doesn't feel as smooth until 2000-2500 rpm... little 'blips' here and there. It definitely enjoys 3000+ more. Is this just a symptom of a more aggressive cam or is it indicative of an actual problem?
2) I'm still have some issues with hard starting... Rusty67 might be able to describe the issue better than me, the starter will sometimes start the engine right up and other times will definitely struggle to turn. Also, we saw some visible arcing today from the battery's positive battery terminal.
The wire connecting to that terminal has some corrosion on it, so I'm gonna replace it. Could the arcing and corrosion hint at any other problems, specifically something that might be making it hard to start?
Few things...
1) It still doesn't feel as smooth until 2000-2500 rpm... little 'blips' here and there. It definitely enjoys 3000+ more. Is this just a symptom of a more aggressive cam or is it indicative of an actual problem?
2) I'm still have some issues with hard starting... Rusty67 might be able to describe the issue better than me, the starter will sometimes start the engine right up and other times will definitely struggle to turn. Also, we saw some visible arcing today from the battery's positive battery terminal.
The wire connecting to that terminal has some corrosion on it, so I'm gonna replace it. Could the arcing and corrosion hint at any other problems, specifically something that might be making it hard to start?
Starter might be dragging, needing new field coils. Tighten those cables. When I got to my son's house last weekend in Kalifornia, he was having battery problems. He'd given up on it to cool off. I went out and low and behold all his starter connections were loose. That was the only problem. He'd changed out a bad voltage regulator then cycled the starter several times, then let it sit overnight. The old reg. was shorted and draining the battery. He assumed there was still a problem afterward when it still wouldn't start the next morning. Sometimes it's the simple things over looked when things look bad.
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